The Pheney files

 

 

Diary written by Richard Pheney in 1850/1851 on board the ship Eden bound for New Zealand from England, and letters written by Richard in New Zealand soon after his arrival .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Transcript of:

 

 

Diary written by Richard Pheney on board the ship Eden bound for New Zealand from England, and letters written by Richard in New Zealand soon after his arrival .

 

 

The diary starts on 20 June 1850 on board ship, the last entry is a letter written from the New Plymouth area on 6 January 1851.

 

 

This transcript was produced by scanning a typed transcript (created some years ago) into MS Word 2000, and then checking the scanned version against the original hand-written diary. The original spelling has been retained, and the punctuation has been followed as much as possible. For ease of reading, very long sentences have been shortened by turning a comma into a full stop. Paragraphs have also been used in places where there were none. The aim was at all times to retain the meaning of the original. Where the writing was hard to decipher, the word used was the one which appeared the best fit to the original writing style, and to the general approach of Richard Pheney. If there are any really unusual words, they are probably due to errors in the scanning which have not been picked up during editing. Where there is mis-spelling, this is probably due to a change in spelling of words since 1851, or (horror of horrors) an error by Richard Pheney (in later years, a newspaper editor).

 

 

This transcript was prepared in July 2000 by Rex Sinnott. Richard Pheney was Rex’s great great great grandfather. The line of ancestry is:

 

Rex Sinnott – his mother is Natalie Frances Sinnott (nee Jacombs);

Natalie Sinnott’s mother is Frances Mary Jacombs (nee Howell);

Frances Mary Jacombs’ mother is Emma Mildred Howell (nee Pheney).

Emma Mildred Howell’s father is Richard Cliff Francis Pheney;

RCF Pheney’s father is Richard Pheney.

 

 

Rex’s contact details:

 

44 McGowan Road, Wainuiomata 6008, New Zealand

Phone: 64-4-9707509

Email: rex_sinnott@clear.net.nz   or:  rms@zfree.co.nz

 

There are also transcripts prepared by Rex Sinnott from diaries written by:

Richard Pheney – his walk from Wellington to New Plymouth in late 1850/early 1851;

Frances Pople Pheney (Richard’s granddaughter) – her trip from England to New Zealand on the ship Dallam Tower in 1878/1879.

 

 

This document is copyright to Rex Sinnott. It may not be reproduced in any form, or in any medium, without written permission.

Bay of Biscay 20th June 1850.

off the Tagus about 500 miles from land.

20th June 1850.

 

Dear Richard,

 

After a very rough passage down the channel with contrary winds from the day we started from Gravesend up to the 16th we are now getting across this mighty bay with something like a favourable wind and having at length got into the blue water trust to make a good passage, but I understand that this period of the year although favourable as regards weather, is not the best for a quick passage.

 

We had a terrible knocking about in the Channel. I can only account for my exception from the general sickness which prevailed for about a week or ten days, by attributing it to having put my stomach into training by Aunt Betsy's salts of Caumomile, only three out of the 13 passengers escaped. I reckon myself case hardened against any weather now for sights and sounds continued during this time were enough to provoke the strongest stomachs. Many of the sailors say they have been twenty times down channel without meeting such weather.

 

It was the 11th before we made the Isle of Wight, and then getting a little more favourable wind we ran down the Hampshire and Devonshire coasts the red sandstone rock and cultivated slopes of the latter contrasting with the white cliffs of Kent and Sussex. Time does not promise to hang so heavy on hand as I expected. The Surgeon has committed to me the superintendance of the delivery of water to the passengers. This brings me in contact with all in the ship, and although troublesome may be useful.

 

The provisions are good and plentiful. While the sickness lasted very little food was consumed and those who remained untouched had enough to do to prepare and distribute the buckets of brandy, water and arrowroot etc prepared for the sick. I am now on friendly terms with many of the passengers, the principal of whom have land or are going out to purchase. As far as I can guess I should think they carry with them sums varying from £30 to a £100 at my end of the ship which all seem to consider sufficient to begin with on a small scale. But they have all of them in addition to the money large stores of useful implements nails, seeds etc. Many have been out before and are returning to settle down for the remainder of their lives. From these I have gained already much valuable information which however should the ship in sight speak, I must wait another opportunity of telling you. Had I been going to New Plymouth I think I should not have found any difficulty in coming to an arrangement before the end of the voyage, although I see there is a strong prejudice in many cases against doing so and all have the most implicit confidence in the ease with which employment may be obtained. I have been over again pressed to change my intention to stay at Plymouth. I have also ascertained that the distance between that port and Wellington may be traversed without danger in seven days with knapsack, blanket and kit. There are a few streams on the route but these present no difficulty of any account. I find that I have made an unfortunate ommission in not bringing 2 spades, an American axe and a fork, which I shall have to get when I arrive before I can do anything and I am likely to find good ones very dear.

There is a gentleman on board by the name of Reede who left New Zealand in l846 and is taking back a wife and seven of his relations. He holds a considerable amount of land in the neighbourhood of Wellington having gone over among the earliest settlers. He is a very fine man and free in his communications as if he had nothing more than the suit he stands up in. I shall see what I can do with him by the way.

 

Our mess ...   I will now describe to you my more immediate companions. 1st stands a Mr. Kemp a solicitor lately of Bucklessbury a very agreeable man with whom I am allready on intimate terms. Though in the steerage he has some amount of money with him and a large quantity of usefuls. He is bound for New Plymouth. There is also on board a Mr. & Mrs. Honeywood friends of his, bound for the same place. Mr. H. is a surgeon, and we find ourselves everyday discovering that we are mutually acquainted with persons and circumstances in his late locality - Cannon Street. They want me to land at New Plymouth with then, but this of course I cannot do; moreover I hear that the landing there is very expensive so that if I see New Plymouth it must be after I get to Wellington.

 

June 28th off Madeiras.

 

The ship by which I had hoped to send the above turned out to be a Greek vessel. There was no wind and we were in sight of her all day before we could make her. She was lying too with her flag half mast high betokening distress. We made her about 6 p.m. where we found that she had lost her reckoning and feared getting on the land in the night. Having given her the correct latitude and longitude we parted with mutual compliments, lowering of colours etc. The incident caused considerable excitement and not a little disappointment for as she was already homeward bound and waiting for us everybody had been preparing letters.

 

To resume. The No. 2 of our mess is a scotchman Mr. Macomish a droll little schoolmaster half jester half clergyman, but very harmless and amusing. No. 3, 4, 5 are respectively, Mr. Murdock, Mr. Bryan and Mr. Wilmot. All of them are persons of respectable connections and manners and all as I have before said some amount of money with them. Nevertheless on comparing notes I have found that they have no intention of laying it out immediately but intend to take to labour and obtain experience in the first place before spending their money. We are a very happy family and agree well with the rest of the passengers. Our habits on board are well calculated to keep us in health & strength although I fear that we shall not escape sickness as we proceed, for there are several ailing on board.

 

We rise at 6 a.m. and proceed at once to get the water for the day from the ships hold to the passengers barrels on deck from which it is distributed later in the day. I have to take an account of the buckets as they come up & see that the mate which delivers it does not jew us. Then there is a portion of each passenger’s water to be delivered to the cook and finally the delivery of the remainder to the different messes.

 

At 7 breakfast usually begins with oatmeal porridge universally considered the best means against the constipation which usually attends the commencement of a sea voyage; then follow Tea, Coffee, Soaked biscuits, toasted and buttered, and sometimes boiled salt pork; this over, the beds and bedding are 3 mornings a week carried on deck and we are at leisure for preparing dinner. At 1 o clock we dine - two days in the week on salt pork & pea soup – two days on beef and boiled rice - three days on preserved meat which is a thick meaty soup with plenty of vegetables and it forms a very agreeable change as it has little or no salt or spices in it and is very nutritious. On those days we have also preserved potatoes. Our mess of 6 also have 1/2 lb of flour and 4 1/2 lb of Biscuit delivered daily and weekly 3 lb of raisins 1½ lb of suet, 3 lb of butter as good as we get in London 1/2 per pound 6 lbs of sugar 3/4 lb of tea and the same quantity of coffee, and 3 pints of good pickles besides mustard salt, etc. We have likewise received limejuice twice & it makes a very pleasant drink with the addition of a little sugar. Tea at 5 much like breakfast and for supper those who take it must rely upon the remains of dinner or on biscuit and Butter which never fails.

 

Lamps are lighted at dusk and kept on all night. 10 o clock is the nominal bed time when the watch between decks is set and continues till 6 in the morning. This duty devolves on the married men who in consideration are exempt from the duty of getting up the water. Once and sometimes twice a week we get bread. Mr. Kemp by good luck has with him some preserved yeast and by a little instruction from the cook I have learned to turn out a moderately good loaf rather heavy perhaps when compared with London bread, but to tender teeth nevertheless a great boon. This I look upon as a most useful acquirement. I have also proved very successful at pudding making that is in substituting soaked biscuit brought to a pulp for dough so that we rarely dine without one.

 

One of my inventions however completely flabbergasted my friend the cook and has caused no end of contention about the use of the oven. The preserved potatoes are in pieces about the size of a pea and as hard as stone. To these they add boiling water which produces a dish of mashed potatoes; now bearing in mind the browned potatoes in Stanhope Place I one morning put the mess into a broad bottomed tin and sent it to the oven and it came down beautifully browned and was delicious. The experiment was not long getting abroad and the tins flock in such numbers that cookee is quite disconcerted and not half of those tendered can be baked in time for dinner.

 

We have today a good view of the side of the island of Madiera having been beating about for more than two days between it and Porto Santo. This is the first land we have seen since we have lost sight of the coast of Cornwall. The weather has been latterly very fine but the wind light and very uncertain. It is a strange sight to see this immense mass of waters of the most beautiful blue imaginable smoother than the Serpentine - so it has been for several days together. The outline of the island of Porto Santo approached from the north is very bold and picturesque consisting of seven mountains. There is not from the distance we see it at, any appearance of habitations or inhabitants. The Island of Madeira is longer and not so bold but still ridged and beautifully patched with wood. The town is at the south side and as we are bearing West in search of the N.W. Trades we are not likely to see it. We were in hopes that if we passed the town some boat might have put off and taken our letters but I now fear that there is very little chance of sending it to you.

July 1st. At 11 last night we fell in with the trades and after crawling along for days at a mile or two an hour, we are now driving through the water at the rate of 7 or 8. Our mess is on very friendly terms with both Captain, Surgeon & passengers and have twice had presents of stout which will show you the estimation in which ones services are held. On Sunday we have prayers at l1 but the Presbyterians form themselves into a distinct congregation and have two services in the day, the schoolmaster officiating first saying prayers and then reading a sermon with the usual amount of singing. We have also prayers every evening among ourselves.

 

The majority are equally unacquainted with myself in agricultural pursuits and the general purpose seems to be to obtain situations till they can earn money and experience or both to enter on business for themselves. All however appear anxious to get some land but an experienced man to whom I have spoken recommends otherwise and says that farming, unless on a large scale, is not attended with profit and that it requires considerable capital. It seems that a man may get an acre or two free of rent for one or two years and then at a very moderate one, with a covenant which enables him to purchase at a given price in 7 or 14 years, perhaps then at not more that 5 to 7 £ an acre, so that as soon as 25 or 30 £ is obtained to buy stock & erect the necessary building, which latter is usually done by help, returned in kind, a start may be made. The tracts of pasturage yet unappropriated in the neighbourhood of the section already sold, are open to all for grazing purposes, and with the exception of          materials there is little expense in the multiplication & protection of stock. An acre is sufficient to produce vegetables for a small family, cream, butter, eggs & poultry are easily bartered for other necessaries, & there is always a market for stock in the town of the settlement. I have been much troubled with toothache since being aboard, & have just had one out with the aid of the Surgeon.

 

July 3rd. A month today since we moved from London. We are now driving along before the trades in Lat. 23° 9 & this day passed vertical of the sun at 2 p.m Thermometer 79 in the shade. We have seen numerous shoals of porpoises, & a great number of flying fish, the latter a little pretty fish about a foot long; its flight seldom exceeds a few yards. Of the former, the boatswain attempted to make capture by harpooning, but failed, I think for want of line sufficient. A swarm of them were gamboling like mad in the beautiful blue water, just under our bows, their every motion seen as clear as through a glass, but they fled & we saw them no more. It has been stated that a shark was seen following the ship many days ago; not having seen it I cannot vouch for the truth & they are seldom seen in the latitudes we were then in. It created many gloomy prognostications among the superstitious, but the coincident death of two pigs in the night fortunately gave all gloomy forebodings to the wind, & if there were any truth in the report, probably a meal to the monster.

 

Sunday July 7th. I don't know what makes the difficulty, but we can never get information of the Longitude we are in. We have seen no land since Madeira, & appear to have run a long way West by the sun - moreover we are today in Latitude 14.30 with the thermometer at 84° in the shade, & have therefore passed the C. Verd Islands, but have seen nothing of them, neither did we see anything of Teneriffe or other of the Canaries, & must have been a great way west of them not to have seen the Peak. There seems to be little chance of any conveyance for this home. I am quite surprised at the few ships we meet, not having seen above half a dozen since we left the Lands-end. The weather continues very beautiful, & although there is a great rocking of the vessel, nothing like hard weather has yet been experienced. What we have now to fear, it seems, is a calm which may hold us for weeks in this tremendous heat. There is scarcely any breathing between deck & no getting sleep – if you drop into a nap for a few minutes, you awake dripping.

 

Monday July 8th. Yesterday afternoon signalized a vessel which at dark neared in so that a biscuit might be thrown on board. Her near approach excited some consternation as she did not answer signals. She however turned out to be the Lord Duffering from Liverpool 30 days, bound for Bombay, her latitude and longitude agreed with our own - by this meeting we ascertained that we were in latitude 14° 30´ north, longitude 25° 40´ west. Where we spoke to her, we had got out of the trade winds, into what are called variables, which from appearances would seem to be no wind at all, for we are quite becalmed, and the heat excessive. I have omitted to tell you that we have every evening something like a concert or a dance, and sometimes both; this evening at dark startled by the snorting of several whales. We were not able to see the monsters but heard them beating and blowing the water and emitting a most disgusting smell.

 

Tuesday 9th July. Still a dead calm longitude   and the thermometer 100° Last night there was some bathing in the dark which we get here at six oclock. They seemed - that is to say the two or three sailors who went in, to think nothing of danger, and I had made up my mind to take the benefit of the same this evening: but this morning has altogether altered the complection of affairs, - for at 11 we hooked a young shark and after considerable difficulty got him on board. I had no idea of the beauty of the beast:- it was a very young one, measuring not more than seven feet - the back of a most beautiful ultramarine color, and the underneath part perfectly white. He kicked up a pretty dust on the deck before his tail could be cut off; then his head was carried away, and half a dozen knives were busy at his fins, etc and in no time he was cut up and cooked, and the part I tasted was very nice.

 

Saturday 13^th  Latitude 9°. We have sight of a ship supposed to be homeward bound, so I will close this and hope it will find all our friends in good health. For my own part, although getting but little rest from the excessive heat, I am getting flesh fast, and if I go on as I have done my wardrobe will require considerable alteration by the time I reach Wellington. I get a shower bath over the bows every morning. Pray let me hear from you soon after I arrive, and let all who feel an interest know how far I am safe on the voyage. To your Uncle and Aunts and to Miss Neal give my kind love and to Mr. and Mrs. Suzelback when you see them. I trust you and Frank are well and happy and shall be all anxiety till I hear from you. God bless you all.

 

July 14^th to 26^th.   All this time little better than becalmed, having made little more than 9 degrees in the 12 days. Sleeping at night is all but impossible; and we get rid of daylight so early (about 6 oclock) that the evenings are very long. The imperfect lights between decks hardly admit of reading, & are so placed as to make writing impossible.

Yesterday we passed the Equator. On the previous evening the Captain sent round to know whether it was the wish of the passengers to enter into the sport of the sailors on the occasion of passing the line. This created a precious hubbub; for it had been asserted that no such thing would be permitted, and a great many dissented from it altogether; while others, more reasonably, only required to be exempted from it in their own proper persons. These presented a memorial to the Captain, & in the evening we mustered round the Captain to receive an explanation - which was to the effect, that the sailors claimed it as a right amongst themselves, & that those who did not wish to join in it had better keep between decks or they would be considered partakers & share accordingly:- that no one would be subjected against their will if below, & that he would promise that anyone choosing to partake of it should receive no ill usage. He said that there were several of the crew who were not yet "Neptune’s children" - id est - had never passed the line before; and that the sailors were entitled to insist on a compliance with the necessary and usual forms.

 

Thirty two of us, who thought that so favourable an opportunity of seeing the ceremony should not be thrown, away, signed a paper submitting ourselves to the unknown ordeal; and at dark preparations were made for receiving the Sovereign of the ocean. At 7 o'clock, by the light of a tar barrel sent afloat to light him, his Majesty hailed the ship "Ship-a-hoy! what ship is that?" "the Eden". "Where are you from?" " The port of London" " Where are you bound?" "New Zealand" He then inquired if we had any sons of his on board who had not before been in this part of his dominions, and being answered in the affirmative expressed the wish to see them; and was answered by the Captain’s inviting him on board.

 

Whereupon his Majesty, clothed in a white bearskin, with Crown, Trident etc. with his wife Sally, mounted on an immense polar bear, proceeded to the cuddy where they received some drink, etc and 10 in the morning having been named, His Majesty took his leave. Awful were the tales which they told us on all hands, to induce us to withdraw our names from the list, and not draw numbers for turns; but with the exception of two or three all stood firm. On the following morning, breakfast having been got over early, a tank was formed on the quarter deck some 8 feet deep and 10 feet square, with sails etc. and filled with sea water to a depth of about 4 1/2 feet: a planking was formed from the deck to the top of this, where a grating was placed for the patient to be seated on. This paraphenalia staggered a few; and coupled with several 3 feet razors of iron hoop teethed, gave ground for general misgivings; however we were in for it and must go through.

 

At 10 oclock punctually Neptune came on board attended in a state car by several of the crew, all being masked or disguised as monsters of some kind or another. They were regaled as before with rum, and then proceeded to business. His Majesty took his seat on the long boat attended by his clerk, & Sally opposite to him. On the aforesaid grating stood the shaver with his teriffic razors in his belt and next to him the monarch's physician, who prescribed for the patient. The members of the crew who had not passed the line were first dealt with. The ceremony consists of binding your eyes, when you are lead up the inclined plane to the edge of the bath. On this you are seated, and Neptune (the Boatswain) puts a few humorous questions to you, the shaver taking the opportunity when your mouth is open to reply, to dab his brush of soap between your teeth. The doctor was then told to examine and prescribe for the patient. The dose was chalk and water; and when the party was not liked, a sort of tar plaster on the arm or chest. The shaving process is then carried on by another monster; but there was no roughness in any of the operations and the utmost good temper prevailed. When the shaving was finished other questions were put and before you could answer one of them a hand applied to your feet and a sweep of the boatswain's arm toppled you backward into the water where two fellows waited to catch you and to prevent the possibility of hurt by the fall; also to administer there several duckings. This part, which the majority principally dreaded, was nothing to me, as they were very tender with several who were favourites. I had no pitch plaster, no dose; but simply the shave and a little chalk and water poured over my head for unction,- all tenderly done and quickly over. Some however, and principally the cuddy passengers, received no such indulgence; but characteristic of the sailor, after all sundry bribes of rum & biscuit had been administered. Jack rather added to than reduced the ordeal as compared with those who had only spared them biscuit for lobscourse and a bit of tobacco when they ran short. We have all heard much of the tropical sunsets; but it is impossible to convey in words any perfect idea of their magnificence.

 

August 1st  We have been attended by flocks of Cape pigeons, the Petrel and the Albatros. Many were shot, and some were taken with the line and hook and a piece of pork attached. We now have a sight of a different part of the heavens: The Southern Cross is a beautiful constellation, and the stars appear to my eye far more numerous, bright and large than in the Northern Hemisphere. Up to the 12th of August we had variable but on the whole favourable winds and glorious weather, and had run down to latitude 24° South but making all the time a great deal of waste longitude which we shall have to pick up again. We are now out of the Tropics. This day we were suddenly becalmed about midday, and as the evening advanced the sun looked very angry. At 7 o'clock the wind got up, and in half an hour blew a complete gale. The men had more than they could do aloft, and the surgeon asked eight of us to go on deck to the ropes. Taking in sail was rough work aloft for the men, and it was like pulling against a brick wall at the running rigging below. Although a stout ship, her rigging was very old; the ropes tumbling and torn gave us awkward knocks. The darkness was intense; but the worst was yet to come. Before sail could be taken in an enormous sea struck her on the larboard quarter, swept over the poop & carrying with it the hen coops & binnacle from their lashings, came down like a deluge upon us, dashing everything against the bulwarks; at the same moment the mainsail split with the report of a battery of heavy ordnance; and another sea striking her in midships, swept in more than two yards of the bulwarks and sent the poor cow in her house into the main hatchway. All was confusion, and it was clear that we were in considerable jeopardy.

 

I had always looked upon "A sail being torn to ribbons" as a figurative expression; but I now learned that it was no metaphor. The sight was awfully beautiful; for now enormous flashes of lightning - not the partial flash which illumines only one quarter of the heavens, but making all perfect day to the edge of the horizon in every direction, came every minute lighting up everything. The smallest rope could be seen; and the deck, strewn with ropes and pieces of rigging, every loose thing pitching here and there like mad, while aloft the enormous mainsheet, torn from its rings, and literally in a dozen strips whipped the mast and rigging with frightful force, the sea surging over the poop quarter and pouring on the quarter deck like a cascade. After shaking myself a bit I was sufficiently undismayed to admire and even enjoy the magnificence of the scene; but it is impossible to describe the sensation of dismay which thrilled through the ship when we heard someone aloft shout "There is one of us missing!" and the captains' prompt reply "Come down all of you". It providentially proved a false alarm; had it been otherwise all human aid would have been vain. All seemed to lose the idea of personal danger in the satisfaction which followed.

 

The night was very rough; but towards daylight it all died away, and left nothing but a heavy sullen swell until all subsided into a complete calm, which lasted with rare intervals of light winds until we reached 39 degrees of south latitude where we caught a good west wind and ran down the longitude at a great rate, and passed the meridian of Greenwich on the 29^th, and on the 4th Sept, that of the Cape of Good Hope in latitude 40°. When I think of you now and of what you are about I have got to subtract from our time. It has only been by keeping strict account, and comparing the watches on board with the ship’s time, that we can at all ascertain how we are going on. The authorities persist in keeping all knowledge of either latitude or longitude from us and we have seen no land to ascertain it by since we lost sight of the Madeiras. Indeed the Captain seems to keep us away from every place which would enable us to ascertain anything of our whereabouts. The latitude and longitude I have put in were subsequently obtained through one of the mates. I got at the log and made out to a certain extent our course, as shown in the enclosed sketch. After passing the Cape we made sure of seeing something of the islands of St. Paul, Amsterdam or Desolation; but were mistaken.

 

After passing the Cape we had a deal of rough weather and were often inundated between decks; but at length on the 13th October 12 p.m. we caught sight of the revolving light on Cape Otway the south point of Australia, and then discovered the Captain's intention to take us through Basses Straits. We had now been wandering 15 weeks along the waste of waters since we left Madeira, without seeing any land; neither had we seen more than half a dozen sail. At 9 a.m. on the 14th we had land on both sides and it being reported that fishing might be attempted with success, I rigged out a line & hook and in less than half an hour took two Barracoota’s. This is a fish in great plenty in the strait in color much like the severn salmon,- about 3 feet long, and in shape and character like the Pike, being a strong voracious creature. By dinner time dozens had been taken; they require a strong line, a hook, and for bait simply a piece of red cloth. They are very good eating either fried, boiled, or baked in vinegar, and dry well.

 

We are now about 10 days sail from New Zealand; if we had but favourable wind; but it has already fallen suddenly, which is not unusual here I learn. On the 15th we spoke a vessel from Sidney, and our captain was conveyed on board but would not take any letters with him. It turned out to be of no consequence as she was only going to Port Phillip. We got some Sidney papers from her, but they contained nothing of interest. We were two days beating about Cape Wilson surrounded by groups of the most picturesque but dangerous islands. Deuced little chance here, thought I to myself, if overtaken with bad weather.

 

On the l7th we got a good wind and on the following morning were clear of them a11 and running our course at the rate of 9 knots an hour until 12 at night, when a sudden squall took us aback, and for the first half hour it was all neck or nothing; to take advantage of the wind we had five studding sails out, besides all her other cloth. Without a moment’s notice it struck her, and before she could be got about the jib and Royal were in tatters, one of the studding sails with enormous spar carried right away and the Foretop mast hanging with all its hamper rigging a wreck about the Foremast. Such was the violence of the wind, that it was two hours before all her sail could be got in and was done in a deluge of rain and at great peril to the men, when put about, and before sail could be taken in, she was driving before the wind at 14 knots an hour, plunging about like something wild and retracing the course we had been making during the day; and providential it was we had made so much for had we been driven to our previous night’s ground, nothing could have saved us. From 12 till 2 it was as dark as pitch, and the rain fell as only it falls here - not in drops but in sheets. We are termed the Surgeon's watch; and are always called on any emergency; and on such occasions are told to help ourselves from the stewards bottles: The sailors also get as much as they like, and it needed some inducement to go aloft, for two of the masts were known to be sprung; but it may be said they were left to do as they liked, and they behaved gallantly.

 

After this we made tolerably good way until the 21st when we were again all but becalmed, then got a fair wind and sighted Cape Egmont, New Zealand, on the morning of the 28^th, having seen nothing but shoals of whales at a distance. One morning looking over the bows I saw a very beautiful young shark not more than three feet long. I ran for a line and hook to make prize of him and presently we were all intent on the sport; but we were not fated to take him, though fate brought an elder member of probably the same family to the hook - for it had not been over many moments when we saw a well grown fellow some nine feet long glide from under the bows, and having twice gone round the ship took the bait and then we had a tremendous scuffle; but a noose was at last got about him and with twenty hands at the rope he was soon brought bodily over the side holding on by his teeth to everything he could get at, and lastly to the bulwarks, till he was borne away by main force. You should have seen the marks he left on a handspike which one of the sailors thrust into his mouth when he was brought on deck! Presently the blow from an axe brought off his tail and his fierce dashing about ceased. They then began to cut him up without pity; indeed they appeared to have a savage enjoyment in inflicting pain upon him, one seizing a fin another scooping out an eye, while a third is disembowelling the monster, to take his liver for the oil. The creature was literally divided into fifty parts before all appearances of life were extinguished, I ate some of him, but he was rather rank food.

 

In the afternoon of the 28th of October, 140 days from Gravesend we went into New Plymouth Roads. The coast is a most beautiful one, picture five large sugar loaf shaped mountains standing out into the sea like the advanced guard of a great army, while all inland is mountain forest and undulating plain, with large cultivated tracts along the shore and in the background Mount Egmont, covered with eternal snows, rears its head some 9000 feet above the level of the sea, forming a panorama in which the grand and beautiful are blended as I never before saw them, and gladden and delight the eye so long used to the monotonous motion of the waves.

 

The Pilot came on board with a crew half english, half natives. They are a fine built race; very good tempered and lazy, and apparently quick and timid & superstitious. The former is evident; and it is fortunate that they are so, for in this settlement they are sufficiently numerous to eat us up some fine morning for breakfast. Here my new friend Mr. Kemp leaves us, and in all about 50 of the passengers. He went on shore on Wednesday afternoon leaving me to see his luggage into the boats. I did not intend to go on shore for we were lying nearly four miles out - for there is no harbour, and the coast is a dangerous one. Moreover the expense: but on Friday I got a message from him requesting me to come as he had positive information that the ship could not discharge till the Monday. So after seeing all the luggage safe I got into the boat, and after three quarters of an hours row landed through the surf on the shoulders of a native, with a wet skin.

 

I found Mr. K. with his friend Mr. Curtis a man of some property and consideration, waiting for me; and after drying and refreshing, was presented by him to Mr Halse the Company's agent, Mr. Hursthouse, the postmaster, and the rest of the authorities. They then took me to the town of New Plymouth. The houses do not number 50, and all of wood except the custom house, and very small, being principally used as offices the owners having residences in the vicinity; so that at present it is but a primitive looking place. There are a great many natives in their blankets and flax mats scattered about the place and many at their Pahs or fortified villages, but mostly deserted, in the neighbourhood. In the afternoon we went up to Mr. Curtis’s house about 4 mile from the town and one from the sea. The roads are hilly but not bad and the scenery beautiful. He has a fine section of about 100 acres, the high road bounding part of it entering from which there are about 20 acres of nearly level ground, rising gradually as you near the house to a natural platform on which it stands. On the right and left are beautiful slopes of fern and bush and behind a deep valley of bush - we should call it forest.

 

The back windows of the house overlooking the tops of the trees and the eyes resting on a succession of hills, behind which some 30 miles inland, rises the snow-clad peak of Mount Egmont. The setting sun upon its glistening snow and the purple tints spread over the forest, form a picture which enchants me. In front at 1 1/2 miles distant are the picturesque sugar loaf mountains and the sea. I must describe the house which is built of native Raupo grass. A skeleton of wood is first erected, and then the walls and partitions are formed of the dried grass tied in thick bunches. The roof is of the same material, thatched over with reeds, and overhangs the walls some 4 or 5 feet, forming with the posts outside a pretty veranda for climbing plants of which the country is full. All the rooms are on the ground floor, three in front about l8 feet square, with a pantry and dairy room at the back. The cow house, cattle sheds and pig sty are away. There is the most implicit reliance on the honesty of the neighbours and the natives. There are no shutters, and a wood button alone secures the windows, which reach to the ground.

 

Employed in commercial matters Mr. C. has but little of his land yet in cultivation & the garden is yet but a poor one; but the capabilities of the place for the useful & ornamental cannot be over-rated. In the morning after a bowl of milk, we dived into the forest land at the back. It is very difficult to get through; although the greater part of the trees are small, they are very close & so interlaced by the parasitical plants that the hatchet is needed at every step. One of these runners called the Supple Jack, a cane like plant an inch or more in circumference, & very tough, making a good walking stick – mats your feet, knees, chest and head every 5 or 6 strides & it was only by dint of labour, cutting some, & forcing others up or down, that we managed to get through some miles of it,- all is very beautiful but requires some labour in clearing.

 

There are but few large trees in this description of bush, more properly so called, than forest. Perhaps on 25 acres you will not find more than 50 of the larger kind, being white or red pine & the iron wood tree, used here for fences, & therefore very valuable. The pines are from 45 to 60 feet high & one of them would give planking for a large wooden house inside & out. The iron tree grows to an immense size. I saw one cut through, & thrown down by the sawyers, which must have measured some 18 or 20 feet round. All these trees are valuable, & the sawyers will buy them standing. There is another tree much smaller, but of surpassing beauty called the Lioness palace. These are very numerous & ornamental, bearing a fruit like a turnip in a cup of splendid leaves at the top, but it is dangerous they say for Europeans to eat it, & I have not heard that the wood can be turned to any account.

 

The bush land is usually cleared by cutting all parasitical plants, lopping & felling the smaller trees, & finally by fire. We saw in this short excursion some beautiful birds of the paraqet kind, very tame & unfortunately for them, reported to be delicious eating; some wood-pigeons about the size of a fowl, & some beautiful little singing birds. One I remarked in particular, something in form & habit like our robin, but of a glossy black with a white breast. They run about in couples and are so tame, that you may all but put salt on their tails. Dived into a ravine where we found a beautiful cascade, formed by a mountain rill over some rocky boulders, & then found our way back with some difficulty to breakfast hungry as hunters. The repast consisted of milk, rice pudding - a substantial ham - fried potatoes - seed cake - homemade bread & fresh butter - with some good tea, & we did ample justice to it. Afterwards walked to New Plymouth by the seashore. The sands are strewed with the bones of whales: this sand is an iron stone sand, containing it is asserted 75 per cent of iron. If this place had a better harbour it would, no doubt be quick1y turned to profitable account. They say that from its nature, the operation of puddling, an expensive operation in the manufacture, will not be needed.

 

The night had been very stormy and the ship had nearly been wrecked in our absence. She was not in sight having been obliged to run out to sea, which it seems was done with great difficulty. The gale got hold of her about 1 o'clock & by the time they had got her anchor, she was so close to the rocks that the least lost time, or the slightest failure would have been fatal. The consternation is described as having been extreme, everyone seeming confounded, & the sailors rushing to their work in their shirts (for being anchored all hands were in bed) magnified the danger to the uninitiated, which was needless. Nor do I think others over-rated the danger, for when I got on board, I found the seats all torn away, my bench was no longer in existence except as a parcel of detached boards and all the boxes & lashings torn away.

 

Returned to Mr. Curtis's this evening, & on the following morning, Sunday, started to seek a section of 50 acres, which Mr. Kemp had arranged to take on the previous day, situated about a mile from Mr. C's. There is open country leading to it, & through the road leads through the wood - a subdued light only finds its way on to this road with now & then a bright gleam of sunshine. We at last found the spot. The description I have given of the bush at the back of Mr. Curtis's applies to this. The section is divided into 2 parts by a line of road which is staked out as a continuation of one of the principal roads. There are some good trees on the section; white & red pine & iron wood, perhaps to the amount of a 100, but there are no large ones; however, enough firewood for a century.

 

On the whole they say it will not be difficult to clear. There are three clearings progressing, which will go up to the edge of it, part of each being already in rough cultivation, I do not doubt but the section will be of double the value in a year or two. The price is 30/- per acre & until the money is paid, a rent of 3/- per acre annually - the company's price in London is £2 per acre. The soil of this district is of the finest kind, a fat, rich, black loam, such as is only seen in England in the well manured ground of the market gardener; everything is necessarily luxuriant in its growth and the whole scene is beautiful.

 

Everyone is delighted with the country, & the friendliness of the early settlers is extreme. The only drawbacks are the great number of natives but that, emigration will soon cure; the other a greater difficulty, is a dangerous coast & no harbour, which makes a11 shipping avoid the place. There are, however, regular schooners between it & Auckland & Wellington, but it has not the advantage of the visits of the Australian shipping, which those ports, as well as Nelson enjoy; from their greater advantages in this respect, every thing on shore is very good, but very dear & notwithstanding the disadvantages above mentioned, there is a ready market for all produce - the rearing of stock is held to be the most advantageous, & when you have two or three acres cleared & laid with clover - which may be done so promptly that in 3 months sheep etc may be turned on it - you have no further trouble or expence with them. They rear sheep here for sustenance only, with but 1 or 2 exceptions & do nothing in the wool way.

 

On Monday went down to New Plymouth, found all gone aboard, & hurried off, carrying with me the mail from Wellington which announced the death of Sir Robert Peel.

 

We sailed from New Plymouth for Nelson on 6th Nov. which corresponds to our May, unable to get up the best anchor, it was left, together with 40 fathom of chain, & we then got on very well anchoring on the afternoon of the 8th in Tasman’s bay, a magnificent piece of water, in which the collective navies of the world might ride - and on the following morning were towed into the harbour of Nelson, the snuggest place imaginable. It is separated from the Bay by a naturally formed boulder bank, is not very large, but so deep is the water that the vessel could anchor with her bow sprit over the shore. The entrance however is difficult, not being 3 times the width of the Regent's Canal with a large rock on one side, & the stoney bank on the other. You will guess that getting in is a ticklish job for a large ship, unless cleverly handled. Our entrance was managed with great difficulty, & but for the exertions of the passengers, the ship must have gone on shore. I am sorry to say that there exists a very bad spirit among the majority of the crew, & the general opinion is that they meant the vessel to be so damaged, that they might have got their discharge, and I verily believe such to have been their intention.

 

On the Sunday following our anchoring, it was necessary to put out another anchor to bring the stern of the vessel off the shore, & on being ordered to work, all but 5 refused to touch a rope,- with the assistance of a boat’s crew from the shore, & the passengers, what was needful was done; but from the few of us left on board, & the capstan work & heavy anchor chain it was only done with great difficulty. It is impossible to conceive the feeling of security we now enjoy at anchor. While I write, it is blowing a gale out in the Bay, the whole of which is covered with crested waves - yet this water, only separated by a bank, not the l6th part of a mile broad, & scarcely rising above the water,- is so still that no perceptible motion is felt in the vessel, though the roar of the waves outside is deafening.

 

Nelson is more of a town than New Plymouth, but is nevertheless nothing more than a somewhat larger assemblage of wood houses, with here & there a brick built church of small dimensions. It is embosomed in hills which shut out all beyond from view, excepting towards the bay. On the whole it has very much the character of Scotch scenery, the hills near the shore are but scantily covered with herbage, & those farther away with bush, but the inland districts are said to be very rich & fertile. It is a rising place & will from the advantage its safe harbour gives it, doubtless grow to be a place of consequence. From the nature of the surrounding country, the extension of the town inland, would be somewhat difficult, but there is a large piece fronting the bay, which is covered at high water, & which I dare say contains some 400 acres, navigable only by small boats at the top of the tide, & dry at low water might be won without difficulty & whether they fill this from the surrounding hills or excavate it for docks, might be either way profitably bestowed. The harbour swarms with fish from the shark, sometimes, to a little fish like the Thames white-bait with which the water is literally alive. One, the Snapper is found in great plenty & weighs from 5 to 25 lbs weight. An hour’s fishing will supply food for a day.

 

I went on shore the day we anchored & was not long before I met my friend Mr. Eliot editor, proprietor, printer & publisher of the Nelson Examiner; he has become a man of importance & is living in one of the best houses, to which there is a good garden of about 2 acres well stocked with grapes, figs, almonds, peaches, cherries etc, all the fruit well formed & the strawberries nearly ripe for this is late spring here. Everything in the garden is flourishing; he has 2 horses 2 cows & pigs & poultry without number - also 25 acres in cultivation about the house & a sheep run down in the Wirau, a district about 80 miles away.

 

I was received and entertained very kindly, & he wished me to make his house my home while the ship stayed if I had really made up my mind to go farther, his name is a passport with everybody & to every place. We are to take a run some 15 miles round that I may see the extent of the place, & its steps in advancement. There are about 1000 souls in the town, & between 2 & 3000 more dispersed within the circuit mentioned. Unlike New Plymouth, it is here rare to see a native except close to the sea.

 

Commerce & sheep farming are the 2 principal occupations & the latter the most profitable & certain. I don't know but I may have been premature in having arranged to return to New Plymouth; but more of this when I come to speak of my prospects. Heaven only knows how long we may have to remain here. All the men who have struck have been taken ashore, & committed to prison, & there are no hands to be got, so how the ship is to be navigated, or when we shall get away is at present an unsolved problem. It is only by assistance from the shore that the cargo can be discharged. We have been 8 days here & have not yet got 1/2 of it out.

 

It is impossible to speak too highly of the climate. It is my sincere belief, that any man coming will add from 10 to 15 years to the term of his existence. Mechanics get large wages, but they will only work when they like, and it is difficult to get any assistance from them. My dear friends, You will receive with this a scetch of all that I deem of interest in my tedious voyage.

 

I will now talk of the more important matter of future prospects. I have made many friends on the way and have been treated with great kindness by everyone on board worth knowing; and should I by any disappointment be compelled to retrace the step I am about to take at New Plymouth there is not one of the settlements to which in such an event I have not an invitation to go with promises of employment and assistance. Before many weeks were passed I felt satisfied that there would be no lack of the means of living, whatever might be the probabilities of progressing. I was early advised not to embarrass myself by making any early engagement; following this advice I replied simply by thanks for the propositions made me.

 

I have mentioned that among the passengers is a Mr. Kemp. He has been in the Law, he comes out alone but his wife is to follow him within the next two years. His father is Rector of Petersfield Hampshire. I shall perhaps best describe him by saying that he is the counterpart of poor Mr. Clift – the same face, voice and character of ability but of a somewhat more sombre temperament. He had early expressed a wish that we should not part at the end of the voyage and as it drew to a termination pressed on me earnestly to stay with him at New Plymouth. You will find elsewhere that he succeeded in getting me ashore there, and backed by his friend Mr. Curtis he at last persuaded me to return and join him; this settled we went to see as much of the country as time permitted, being kindly treated, boarded and lodged by Mr. C.

 

The arrangement is that we are to live together he providing subsistance untill we can get a small garden in cultivation and make some of our stock available for that purpose. My money with the same amount or double of his is to be spent in stock - Pigs, a Cow, Poultry, Rabbits and a few sheep which are to be purchased immediately on my return and to accumulate for our joint benefit. A few acres of land are to be cleared, 2 for garden ground and several to be laid with clover. Such is the rapidity of vegetation here that 4 months will see the Cattle on it and from that time they cost nothing, and there is very little trouble; and a few acres planted with potatoes. If these are put in in December they will be ready for digging in March and the ground may be immediately planted again:- two always and frequently three crops being taken off the same ground in a year. The average yield is from 10 to 12 tons often being as high as 14 per acre, and they sell from £3-10-0 to £4 per ton. They are now quoted at £4-4-0 and £4-10-0 but none on the market except for seed. Of course along with all this must progress a place to live in and stock shed. For all of which Mr. K. has many necessaries with him. At first we shall only have a Raupo or grass hut as it will be better to look first to the clearing and cultivation that may be going on than to give simply personal comforts precedence. There is a ready market for all produce and Mr. K's friend is a channel ready at hand. Pigs are very profitable stock, by reason of the good price and ready market there is for bacon, hams etc and the rapid increase of the animals.

 

As I have stated in my journal, the section of land to be taken was settled while I was at New Plymouth. As regards the 50 acres I am to have the right to   purchase within 7 years any number not exceeding 25 acres as I may find it convenient at the same price (30s) per acre at which Mr. K. has it, for the freehold; and as I choose such acres, Mr. K binds himself to give me the same aid & assistance in getting them into cultivation and that all the trees etc growing in the first formed garden shall be common property and divisible between us; and our first necessities being supplied, that both should progress together as near as may be convenient. I was anxious that the arrangement should be such as to enable me if I should see fit to dissolve the connexion as far as living together goes on Mrs. K's arrival. So we are to use all speed to get up a place for me. When the first house is finished - it will be lettable if I should not want it. All the produce of the land up to time of division, that is, while we work together upon it, is to be common property.

 

Mr. K has with him a camp-oven, glass, china, beds and bedding, carpets and several tons of usefuls including tools. We have managed by economy on board, to save a supply of tea, coffee, meal, biscuits, sago, sufficient for 2 months at least. When the surgeon heard that I meant to leave my things at New Plymouth he called me aside and told me he had given instructions that my bed, bedding and what I chose of the mess utensils, should be passed ashore for me, which I thanked him for and have taken advantage of; and I have been supplied with others from the stores to use until I reach Wellington. Such then is the enterprise I have entered on prepared for difficulties & privations, but certainly not without hope of success.

 

The most favourable view I could take of the offers of employment made to me was the obtaining an addition to my money in a year’s time and a certain amount of experience in agricultural business which it is true I want; and wanting, makes my services of less present value. Against this it was urged that the experience obtained only would be useful as long as I retained a situation; and it being admitted on all hands that farming, except on a large scale, involving considerable capital, is not profitable, and that grazing and dealing in stock was therefore the only profitable thing open to me at last, that Mr. K's offer, which enables me to live in something like the comfort of companionship and also ensures the accumulation of stock from the commencement, is a more favourable one, and promises better results.

 

Nor will this arrange negative labouring for others. Such at some periods of the year is the dearth of labour, that double wages are frequently given. Has a man an unoccupied day or week, he rarely fails of turning it to account if inclined; and we have mutually determined not to let any chance go by.

 

As regards the land, I feel satisfied that the right of purchase to the 1/2 of the 50 acres will be a valuable one in less than two years. It so happened that the day after Mr. K had settled the taking, a new block of several thousand acres was thrown open to the choice of purchasers in England by an order from Auckland, which we heard read in the public room. Now one of the main roads to this block lies through the section and will no doubt soon be begun upon, it having been already continued nearly up to it - and this it is said will double the value of it.

 

Along the whole of one side and end there runs a romantic and rapid river, famed for its fish; and during our visit we saw wood pigeons in great plenty. They are very large, & beautiful eating. We were also told that wild pigs are to be found in the neighbourhood. I more than ever regret not having a fowling-piece with me. Mr. Kemp has one but a double barrell is here an invaluable thing, and when to be bought is very dear. You may, the people here say, knock the pigeons down by dozens, for they do not fly away when one is shot. They are only seen in the wood sections. I counted 14 sitting in the trees on the edge of a small clearing next to the section we are going to work on.

 

Since our arrival at Nelson my friend Mr. Elliot has been trying to alter my determination and keep me here. At this place the rearing of sheep for the wool is the main object of pursuit. He has a sheep-run in the Waira district, a beautiful track of grass land about 6 miles from the town, surrounded by an almost inaccessible country. The loneliness of the place is extreme; except sheep huts 5 or 10 miles apart, there is nothing but hill and dale, covered with luxurious growth of herbage. This he holds with a friend, a young medical man, who resides down in the district and whose wife is living with Mr. Elliot's family at Nelson. He proposed that I should go down there,- that it should cost me nothing to live, and that I should lay out what I had in sheep and take them down.

 

In this place they more than double their numbers in a year, besides the wool, which usually averages 4/- a head; but this is not all:- money might be made otherways. He tells me that anyone professing a slight amount of theoretical knowledge of the management and diseases of the animal, and a little intelligence, may by a short familiarity become practically useful; and their services are then worth any money - the so called shepherds being with few exceptions runaway sailors, who neither know nor care for the health of the flocks in their charge. The climate seems in every respect to suit the animal; for of the numerous diseases that sheep flesh is heir to, the scab is the only one that has yet been amongst them; but this, it is admitted, is a terrible scourge, and difficult to eradicate. It corresponds to the itch in the human subject and the very runs are contaminated, and require to be forsaken for a time. But as it is well known that if the animals had facilities for cleansing themselves, and were properly attended to, that no such malady could exist. Neglect and ignorance being the sole cause. Anyone bringing a small amount of knowledge, coupled with care and attention, is considered of great value in the district. It is an old saying, that a man may guard against fire in his own house, but he cannot be safe from his neighbour’s carelessness; so here unfortunately it is next to impossible to prevent the sheep in one run mixing with those of another; and the result is not infrequently general contamination. I have obtained some good remedies for all these matters, which will perhaps some day turn to account.

 

There is also a curious system of business adopted in these matters by those who take sheep runs: - a party procures a license for any number of acres for which he pays £5 and a rent of a penny a head for every sheep kept on it for the year. And then receives any number of sheep from other parties on what is term’d "thirds", that is, he takes charge of the sheep receiving no money for his trouble or their pasturage; but at the end of the year, all the sheep, no matter how many persons he deals with, are taken, and the increase divided, in proportion to the original number sent by each, the renter of the run taking one third of all the increase and one third of all the wool produced as remuneration for his trouble and expence. The renters of runs by these means beginning generally with a few sheep of their own, accumulate large flocks, Mr. E is agent and banker for several of them, and shewed me the accounts of one who went down into the district 2 years ago with 300 sheep of his own, and by the last accounts the accumulation of this flock and his profits by thirds was 2200 & odd head. The wool had more than paid his expences. This is flattering, and looks like safe and easy progression; and I think had Mr. K. come to this place first instead of going to New Plymouth he would have been inclined to stay. But I don't know - his object is more comfort and independance than wealth; and these will be insured with less hardship & privation at New Plymouth. Moreover it would have involved a separation from Mrs. K. when she comes out.

 

Mr. Eliot has kindly promised to send me a case of fruit trees, plants, & seeds when I get back. Amongst other things I have made up my mind to get as soon as possible an acre or two of young fruit trees in progress - apples, pears, plumbs, currants, gooseberries, grapes, & figs which in three years would be very profitable. There is great difficulty in bringing such things out not one in a hundred attempt it; while the advantage of buying anything in bearing, compared with raising it from stone or seed, is so obvious that they would bring considerable prices everyone being anxious to have such things about them as soon as possible, & no one at New Plymouth has yet paid any attention to the point.

 

The sheep I saw at New Plymouth were beyond question finer, larger & producing more wool than any at Nelson, & might be easily pastured; but whether there are any difficulties in getting rid of the wool I do not know, but will quickly ascertain, and if they can be remedied make an effort to do something in the sheep way there. The absence of a good port at New Plymouth has deprived it of a valuable settler, a Mr. Smith a Shropshire farmer who brings out twelve children with him and half a ship load of goods, and two or three thousand pounds.

Richard will recollect the old white-headed gentleman I spoke to on the jetty in London, who was obliged to leave half of his goods for the next ship. He has 100 acres at New Plymouth, but proposes to follow the malting and brewing business and the making of sweet wines, in conjunction with a dairy farm, with a view to exportation as veil as for New Zealand. The want of a harbour at that place was an insuperable obstacle. He had sought me very much during the voyage, & offered me many civilities, & altho considered an impracticable man I managed to agree well with him and have benefited much by the information I have deriv’d from him, which his practical knowledge in agricultural matters, farming and sheep, well enabled him to afford. He therefore determined on settling at Nelson and during our run from New Plymouth had been again at me to undertake an agency for him at that place on my return, & also to transact some business for him at Wellington upon which place he has letters of credit for a considerable sum (which can only be received there), & to settle an agency for his business at that place.

 

I have been ashore several times with him, & may yet it is not unlikely to do something with him that may be permanently advantageous. It is his wish that I should call here on my way back and he would go to New Plymouth with me, choose his land there, and put one in position, and then go to Sydney about his agency there, and buy some sheep; and I intended to get him to send me a few on the strength of any arrangement we might come to - but man proposes - God disposes. After being here four days he was attacked with dysentery and I have just received a communication from his wife, that he is at deaths door. It is grievous to contemplate such a catastrophe! Here is the mother of 12 children varying from 2 to 22 years the eldest young boy, a reckless young boy of l8 not made better by mixing with the sailors during the voyage.

 

The calamity above mentioned as impending has come to pass. I have this day (21st November) attended Mr. Smiths funeral: he died on Saturday last. The family are in great grief, and the melancholy circumstance naturally enlists the sympathy of all. On the following morning I got a message from Mrs. Smith asking to see me. The old gentleman had expressed a wish that she should advise with me, and that one of the sons should be sent to Wellington under my charge, to receive the amount of his letter of credit (450£). I saw at once that it would be incurring a useless expense to do so before administering to the property, as there was no signed order which they would have been justified in paying; and as the Captain had given us all notice to be on board on Saturday as he intended to get away, it was impossible that I could in the short space afford her effectual assistance.

 

A great many of the influential people of the settlement to whom Mr. Smith had been introduced, and most of the passengers, attended the funeral. Amongst the former was Mr. Eliot and the emergency pressing, I asked he to let me introduce her to him and forthwith took her and her eldest daughter to his house; and having stated all I knew of her circumstances and the position in which she was placed, proceeded to advise with them as to what it was best to do.

 

The result of my endeavours was that Mr. Elliot took one of the sons into his own office, and undertook to provide in like manner for another with a friend elsewhere. We succeeded in getting the eldest one into a situation as farming servant for a time, to enable him to gain experience and steadiness previous to his coming to the land at New Plymouth. The three eldest girls are to open a school under the auspices of the clergyman and several ladies; and the second son, a steady intelligent boy, is to help his mother in a store, which the large exportations the father made enables them to stock at once. A respectable solicitor was employed to pass administration, and the charges there-for agreed - a point upon which the mother was anxious. With some real property in England, the Old Gentleman has left some 4000£ the choice of his land at New Plymouth had been left to a Mr. Hursthouse, with whom I am now joined and when chosen I am to see what can best be done with it until the eldest son is considered fit to come on to it.

 

All this was not only proposed, but done by Monday: The store taken, the situations of the boys arranged, and the administration progressing: so that you may imagine I was not idle: and that I leave the place and them with gratified feelings at the result of my endeavours. It would have been satisfactory to me to comply with their wish that I should make this place on my way back; but the expense compels me to decline. Had the old man lived I should have returned at his charge but although benefits more than equivalent might be attained by doing so, I cannot afford to diminish my small hoard on the contingency however promising, and shall therefore keep my resolution of tramping the 200 miles between Wellington and Taranacki.

 

Nov 26th. This day left the harbour of Nelson with only 5 able bodied seamen, besides the officers. We are now reduced to 14 male passengers. The officers have undertaken to work aloft, and we have been formed into watches. If we were all sailors the number would be 8 short; and if we get any bad weather God only knows what we shall do;- it is looked on as a desperate act on the part of our Captain by the Nelson people and pilot, and was protested against by some of our own passengers. Certain it is, that if I had a family with me, nothing would induce me to go on in her; but he had no chance of getting men, even by waiting a month longer, and was therefore in a measure compelled to risk ship, passengers and insurance. The run is but three days but the most perilous three days of the voyage; for Cooks Strait is very dangerous ground. We required this assistance of twelve native boatmen to get the anchors up.

 

Nov 30th. This morning at 1 o'clock entered Port Nicholson, and anchored opposite Wellington, having fortunately had good weather since we left Nelson; but we were worked incessantly; for the last 48 hours I had not been in bed; and between 8 o'clock last night and the time we anchored, the ship was bouted some twenty times in this intricate entrance, having to beat in against a head wind; for such is the uncertainty of the weather here, that we dared not lay to for the morrow. Rest to-day and ashore tomorrow and then to conclude.

 

Wellington Dec 3rd l850

 

My dear Friends

I got your kind letters on landing here, and I need not say what comfort they have given me. One must be away 6 months, and in a strange land, to know what joy the sight of a letter from home can give!

 

Here I am, after a tedious voyage of 6 months, short only three days, at Wellington. This place is, compared with Nelson and New Plymouth, a considerable place; here are five large ships, and numerous smaller ones at anchor in its splendid bay. The surrounding scenery is magnificent, the hills giving it the appearance of an extensive lake.

 

Saw Mr. St. Hill today administering justice to the natives,- delivered my letters etc and received an invite to dinner at 1/2 past 6, (late hour for the colonies,) when I was introduced to Mrs. St. Hill. Tell Miss Hindson, that they night yet be taken for sisters. Mrs. St. Hill may perhaps look the eldest of the two, from her hair being a little grey, but her healthful complexion and bright eyes with an elastic carriage, give her a youthful appearance.

 

I had a long conversation with them, and am to take a sample of my calico, that they may see what can be done with it. Mr. St. Hill thinks the land bargain at New Plymouth an advantageous one and gives me great encouragement: recommended potatoes and stock, viz. pigs, cows etc and advises not to touch sheep until able to deal with a considerable number. He has some land about 8 miles from Wellington, of the same character as our land at New Plymouth, which has cost him 14£ an acre, and yet at that price, and paying for labour, it pays him well. This year he got an average of 15 tons of potatoes per acre; and the Californian Market, which has greatly improved the price of produce here, returned him £5 5s per ton. It is expected that the new settlement of Canterbury will greatly advantage producers in all the settlements.

 

I had an invite to come to Mr. St. Hill's house whenever I have time during my stay here. They have a beautiful house, with all the luxuries of London, in furniture, flowers, fruits etc about them. I am now more than ever anxious to get back to New Plymouth. They talk of serious disturbances in the bowels of the earth going on here, which three weeks since indicated the approach of an earthquake and has terrified some of the old settlers greatly.

 

Since the day we came in, there has been a tremendous gale blowing, which every now and then prevents all intercourse with the shore, but high winds are always prevalent here. It gives me great pleasure to hear that you are all well, and Aunt Betsy was recovered from her cold when your letters left;- may I receive the same news for long to come. For myself, I have not been in better health for years, and feel strong in heart as to the future. I have been obliged to alter the buttons on the throat and waistbands of my shirts; and I regret to say, that the only coat I have, which will now button, is Uncle Pople's brown surtout. Nor is it mere fat, for with it, I have a proportionate increase of strength and activity, I say not this is boastfulness but from thankfulness that so necessary a blessing in my present situation is permitted to me; my heart only sinks when I think of the time that must elapse before I can see you again, and the distance which separates us. I have been gratified even to a sense of pain, if you can recognise the feeling, with the kindness with which my fellow-passengers have treated me; and now that the remnant has grown so small, I have been absolutely oppressed and troubled, with the leave-takings, and friendly offices pressed on me.

 

December 4^th  Came on board last night, proposing to get my things out today. The Bay was like a lake, and not a breath of wind stirring. Before daylight it blew a terrific gale from the N.W. We experienced no such wind during our voyage; it is impossible to keep the deck without a firm hold, and but the Captain, mates and 3 men left in her, with 4 male passengers. At 9 o'clock the best anchor parted, and the only thing that holds us to the ground now is a small stream anchor, which we expect to part every gust. From 9 till 1, all were employed in the hold; handing the bread baskets filled with ballast from the aft to the fore hold so that when she parts, we may be drifted far up on the sands. We don't apprehend more than a good shaking and wetting; but I would much rather be ashore with my calico; and the probability that we shall get there without the assistance of boats. Anyhow, there is not one that ventures out; and we dare not put one down, such is the strength of the wind, that the spray is as thick as the drift of a snow storm.

 

December 5th. A terrible night, but still riding safe by a thread of a chain, which they say is of old Swedish iron. This morning, we had dragged a hundred yards nearer the shore, but seem to have gained a new hold, and the gale is abating. If the wind falls a little more I shall try to get on shore. But as they have told me I need not hurry, and as it saves living on shore, I have been loath to get out of the ship until I am ready for a start to my ultimate destination.

 

Earnestly praying that health may be continued to a11 of you, believe me with sincere regards

 

Yours faithfully,

 

R. Pheney.

 

P.S, I fear my calico spec. will not be a productive one. The article is inferior, being very thin, and not over fine. I shall not more than bring myself home by it. Had it been a penny a yard dearer, and either very fine or thick and course, I might have obtained 8d perhaps 9d per yard; as it is, I fear that I shall not get more than half the latter sum, when the duty and commission are added to the cost; for I cannot sell it piecemeal, as I might have done had it been of better quality. What I principally regret is that it delays me here, but I hope not more than a day or two longer. I am told the mail goes out in the morning, or I wished to be able to say that I was off.

 

God Bless you all.

 

 

Wellington Dec. 6. l850.

 

My dear Richard and Frank,

                     It made me very happy to get your letters & to learn that both of you are well & happy. At your ages, & with your constitutions, a moderate amount of prudence will go far to ensure you a continuance of the former; & good conduct will more unerringly conduce to the latter.

 

I must depend upon you to give Miss Neal & Charlotte etc all the particulars contained in my letters. Let them all know that New Zealand is not the desolate, savage place that some people at home imagine it to be. In every town there are Inns, Lodging-houses, shops, in various branches of trade, and stores, where every thing from an anchor to a fish-hook may be had for money. There are also tipling-houses - more numerous than is good for the health of the people. Men here seem to be satisfied to work a few hours a day, & spend the rest of their time in Gardening, shooting, or fishing, & these progress rapidly to competence;- others, a more numerous class, spend it at the grog-shop, & are stationary in everything except constitution; & all alike seem independent & careless whether you deal with or employ them, or not. A slight knowledge of the use of carpenters' tools is a valuable accomplishment & ensures a man 5/- 7/- & often 10/- a day; every one should learn something of it before coming out.

 

The country where I am about to settle is magnificent;- such scenery, such richness of vegetation! I speak more particularly of New Plymouth, which is considered as the garden of New Zealand. The other places are exceedingly hilly until you get some distance inland.

 

You will have with this an account of my voyage out. Had I spent all my money in Dutch cheeses, onions, marmalade, soda, ginger-beer powders, & such trifles, I might have made 200 per cent - but as this may not be the case with every vessel, it would not be prudent to go beyond 5£ in such ventures; but anyone coming out & judiciously selecting a few of a variety of articles, might make sure of 100 per cent, at least. If I find it a possible thing to get money, I shall try from time, to time to send over some, & then 50£ spent judiciously in the following articles, would most probably return 200 per cent but the quantity of each must be moderate, for there are not markets here for large lots. I mention all this now, that you may keep your eyes open, & ascertain what would be the best markets & moderate prices for things of the kind.

 

1. Small lots of ruled & plain paper, & account books (not large ones but from 3d up to a few shillings), which may be occasionally met with a very cheap at Stationers’ sales.

2. Small books, entertaining & cheap, such as sold by Allman, Holborn Hill; any thing entertaining, cheap & of ornamental appearance not more than 1/2 a dozen of a kind.

3. Strong boots for agricultural labourers, mens & boys, & cheap & strong slippers.

4. Shot for fowling in soda water bottles packed carefully - the bottles are worth 6d a piece here.

5. Cheap caps with fronts, & wide awake hats, & a few oilskin covers for

caps.

6. All sorts of ironmongery and tools, such as saws, hammers, planes, locks for doors, gates, cupboards & hinges, bolts, spades, hoes, rakes, forks and all tools whatever of a useful description in this line, new or secondhand.

7. Cheap drinking horns,- indeed a few of any thing & every thing bought judiciously;- such as the miscellaneous lots, the sales of different trades under bankruptcy, as pawnbrokers, are constantly offering, and the ordinary value of which it is not difficult to ascertain.

8. Remnants of strong ducks, canvas, velveteen, & pilot cloth & clothing of the same in the shape of trousers & a sort of shooting coat & jacket.

Strong casks or tubs not overlarge are the best things to pack in, they are always useful and saleable. Upon all of these, if bought below the ordinary retail prices in London, a certain 100 per cent can be made beyond the expenses; but the number of any one article must be moderate, & not exceed a dozen (except in the case of articles of general use, as caps, boots, shirts and so forth.) at one time. I should add, that the climate here is not as warm as it has generally been represented, & that warm under clothing is a very necessary thing. Worsted stockings and woollen under shirts & blouses (blue) of the same material, are useful and dear articles. A little observation of the retail prices about town will give you a good idea of what such articles should fetch by the dozen or 1/2 dozen. At a sale varying from 30 to 50 per cent might be deducted.

 

The Bay here swarms with fish. In 1/2 an hour before breakfast we get as many as make a pleasant addition to the meal for they are very sweet eating,- but no bathing,- sharks are numerous. It is now near 8 o'clock, & getting dark here. You are trudging to the office to begin a new day,- I am at the end of it, & thinking of going to bed.

 

As we were entering this port, we met the Phoebe Dunbar working out. This ship sailed a month after us. Her first place was Otago, she has out-sailed us some 6 weeks, & brings news of the death of the duke of Cambridge, also the dissolution of the New Zealand company:- the latter event does not create any great sensation here. I think the general feeling is, that if the Government does its duty the settlements will materially benefit by the change.

 

 

New Plymouth 6 January 1851.

 

My dear friends,

                I am again at this place after a most difficult journey from Wellington which I quitted on the 20th Dec but of which I must for the present postpone any account. The ship's fare from Wellington was 3£ & I had hoped to save money by taking the overland journey (upwards of 200 miles); but it has unfortunately proved the reverse, and is painful & difficult in the extreme. But although it has very materially diminished my small means the information & experience I have gained may be considered as cheaply bought by the fatigue & cost incurred.

 

I arrived here on Saturday night last, & joined Mr. Honeywood, where I slept, & on Sunday morning went with him to Mr. Kemp’s section. He has already put up a block house & has many household comforts about him; but all in the rough.

 

Everything wears a Robinson Crusoe aspect. We have to journey a mile through the forest to find the place; but there is a passable road cut. The hut, for it is nothing better, has about 3/4 of an acre of cleared land about it,- that is of trees cut down,- all the rest is dense wood, & the scenery wild in the extreme. Except coming on special business, we should not see a face for a year; but a good log fire makes the place very comfortable. Mr. K. was much pleased to see me, having nearly given me up; & now, just 7 months from leaving Gravesend, I am settled down to work. Today I felled my first tree and find I can handle an axe palpably well. We are also getting up a second room to the hut; & having plenty of wood & tools, a day or two will see it completed, when I shall take possession.

 

We have to clear two more acres in the next fortnight and shall then proceed to burn, and then throw clover & get a garden without delay. This will be accomplished within the next three months when we shall take cattle on it, for which they pay 1/- per head per week & also put on some stock of our own.  We have some fowls and a goat and shall directly get some pigs, rabbits & more fowls, so as to keep the wolf from the door until we can turn ourselves to work. We shall at first have some privations to encounter but I do not think they will last long, altho things are not in a very flourishing state here just now, and labour not in demand.

 

I will write again in a month, & let you know how we are getting on. It is not unlikely but you wi11 see Mrs. Kemp; for I made him acquainted with my circumstances as indeed I felt myself bound to do. She is from what I can learn, a very Religious Woman. In my next I will give you some account of my journey, which has made me a sort of lion here; for it is not many who venture to travel through this country, sleeping & feeding in Native pahs, without seeing a white face for more than a week. Having done it I am glad to have the benefit of the experience; but as Nichol Jaitecy says " May my boots be full of hot water when I draw them for such another journey". In future letters to Post Office, New Plymouth, New Zealand. Any sent to Wellington before you get this will be forwarded to me. And now with best wishes to all, believe me my dear friends  Yours faithfully

 

R.P.