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"Shipboard diaries
and journals of old have slowly faded from the scene with the advent of cable and
wireless, airmail and mass air travel."
Ian Nicholson. 1998
Evening Post,
27 July 1911, Page 8
The R.M.S. Ruahine, which arrived
from London today is the first of the New Zealand Shipping Company's fleet to
carry the Marconi wireless installation, it having been fitted in London.
Frequent communication has been made throughout the voyage with ships and shore
stations, just on 1000 miles with Durban being the longest working range
obtained. The whole of the company's passenger steamers will be fitted with
wireless apparatus.
"Diaries shed a light on the nerve of the settlers. The pioneers required courage to enable them, to step on board the sailing ships and set out on a voyage into the unknown. Some of the pioneers kept diaries, brief affairs, often no more than the state of the weather and the location of the ship, from the day they left their homes; others began and soon gave up the discipline as the boredom of slowly sailing over the limitless ocean asserted its influence. A few kept to the discipline for the whole of the journey."
"Or on the other hand, the daily task of writing a diary, etc, may have helped to relieve the boredom."
Shipboard
Diaries The Canterbury Museum Manuscripts Collection has nearly 200
shipboard diaries or accounts of passages to New Zealand. 137 are to Lyttelton.
Transcriptions for 82 of the diaries as of 2004 are available on the shelves
along with other shipping indexes and resources in the Museum's Documentary
Research Centre as volunteers have progressively transcribing original shipboard
diaries for 11 years. Shipboard diaries account for over 10% of all manuscript
items requested by researchers. The Manuscripts Collection catalogue is on NRAM.
Search under:
Diary. Look to see what shipboard diaries are held. A cross-reference in
the shipboard diaries subject index indicates if it is out on the shelf in the
Research Centre.
National Library of NZ Search
Manuscripts and Archives
Collection
Immigrant Diaries
National Library of AUS Canterbury 1851, Lady Jocelyn, Ganges,
True Briton
Yesteryears
Diaries
Official Log Books
NLA
ATL
Sea sickness or other illness, probably prevented or discouraged some diarists from completing or even staring a voyage account. A few were understandably late with their initial entry, - until they found their sea legs. A few seemingly incomplete logs and diaries are merely the first completed volume of that particular voyage narrative, with the second, or subsequent volumes, having become separated or lost. Or indeed - the first or last few pages of a dilapidated dairy having gone astray. Ian Nicholson. 1993
| Vessel | Arrival Port in NZ | Year |
| Tintern Abbey | Gravesend to Christchurch | 1875 notes |
| Adamant | Bluff | 1875 |
| Arethusa | Plymouth to Wellington | 1879 |
| Bagley, s.s. | Wellington to London | 1890 outward voyage |
| Berar | Wellington | 1874 |
| Blenheim | Wellington | 1840 |
| Blue Jacket | Auckland | 1861 |
| Buckinghamshire | Port Chalmers | 1874 |
| Canterbury | Lyttelton | 1851 images |
| Cardigan Castle | London to Lyttelton | 1876 |
| Clontarf | London to Lyttelton | 1858 |
| Dallam Tower | London to Port Chalmers | 1878 |
| Dilharrie | London to Auckland | 1874 |
| Eagle | Plymouth to Nelson | 1854 |
| Eden | England to New Plymouth | 1851 |
| Emulus | Nova Scotia to Wellington | 1868 |
| Hark-Away | London to Auckland | 1857 |
| Hereford | Plymouth to Lyttelton | 1879 |
| Ida Zeigler | Plymouth to Auckland | 1863 |
| Invercargill broken link | Liverpool to Pt Chalmers | 1878 |
| James Nicol Fleming | Glasgow, SCT to Port Chalmers | 1869 |
| John Wickliffe & Philip Laing | Greenock, SCT to Pt Chalmers | 1847 |
| Lancashire Witch x3 diaries | Gravesend to Timaru | 1863 |
| Mermaid | Liverpool to Auckland | 1859 |
| Mermaid | London to Lyttelton | 1864 |
| Mooltan | Greenock to Pt Chalmers | 1849 Purdie |
| New Great Britain | Gravesend to Bluff | 1863 passenger list song |
| Pieades | Lyttelton | 1887 |
| Poictiers | London to New Plymouth | 1850 |
| Prince Edward | P.E.I. to Auckland | 1859 two diaries |
| Prince Edward | P.E.I. to NZ | 1859 |
| Raven | Sydney to Auckland | 1854 |
| Robert Henderson | Glasgow to Bluff | 1862 |
|
Rose of Sharon
|
London to Wellington | 1857 passenger list |
| Royal Stuart | Plymouth to Lyttelton | 1854 |
| ss Soukar | Tilbury to Lyttelton | 1882 |
| Strathnaver | Wellington | 1874 |
| Timandra, William Bryan & Hydaspes | New Plymouth | 1842 |
| Velore site | Scotland to Port Chalmers | 1861 |
| Western Australian pdf | Edinburgh to Wellington | 1864 note unfinished diary 44 days |
The hand writing varies between the start and finish of voyage, getting rougher with time!
Dilharee London to Auckland 1875
Letter - voyage out to NZ 1884 on the SS British King from Liggins Family tree website
1848
Bernicia to Otago
Canterbury Association vessels
Steadfast to Lyttelton
1851 voyage account
Conditions to NZ Christian McAusland, Corinthic, Marlborough & White Rose
Mary Shepherd London to Auckland 1866
Buckinghamshire London to Otago 1874
Voyage of the S.S. Bayley Wellington to London 1880
Monarch England to Akaroa 1850
Dunedin to Edinburgh in the Silverbow 1898
Royal Geographical Society, ENG. Pereira, George Edward, 1865-1923, Brigadier General GEP/11(b) - date: 17 Jan 1888 - 20 March 1888 Diary: NZ and voyage to England
Leicestershire, Leicester and Rutland Record
Office. Diaries of Horatio Packe - ref. DE3969/13 - date: 1886 In New
Zealand. Voyage back to Tilbury visiting Ceylon and various ports.
Archways Inwards and Outwards Correspondence, Log Books and Shipping Report Books at the Archives NZ CHCH Official Log Books Armistice 1884 1885 Chch Bells 1891 1891 Chch City of Adelaide 1893 1895 Chch Dilpussund 1895 1896 Chch Ellora 1878 1878 Chch Jasper 1890 1894 Chch Kate Tatham 1889 1891 Chch Kinclune 1902 1903 Chch Manchester 1899 1900 Chch Manurewa 1900 1901 Chch Petone 1900 1901 Chch Rio Loge 1890 1891 Chch Sunbeam 1884 1885 Thurso 1889 1890 Chch Emigration Department office papers Archives NZ Wgtn Log books and surgeon's journals:- "Blundell" (ship) "Timandra" (ship) "Sir Charles Forbes" (ship) "Thomas Harrison" (ship) "Thomas Sparks" (ship) "Blenheim" (ship) "Bombay" (ship)
Five Years in New
Zealand 1859 to 1864 by Robert B. Booth.
Passenger list
A young friend, C----, son of a neighbouring squire, offered to accompany
me as my chum and partner. He was six years my senior, and had had
considerable experience in farming, so was considered very suitable for a
colonial life; whereas I knew literally nothing of farming or anything else
beyond my school work. Our preparations were put in hand, and our passages
booked by the good ship "Mary Anne," to sail from St. Katherine's Docks,
London, on April 29th, 1859. C---- and I went direct to Liverpool from
Drogheda.
We had a rough passage to Liverpool. On the evening of the day before the
ship sailed from London, after seeing our luggage on board, and cabins made
ready for occupation, we accompanied my father, mother, and brother to
Euston Station, where they were to bid us God-speed. I was in good spirits
till then, but when on the railway platform, a few minutes before the train
started, my dear mother fairly broke down, and the tears were stealing down
my father's cheeks. The less said about such partings the better; it was
soon over, and the train started. I never saw my dear old father again.
The "Mary Anne" 700 tons was an emigrant ship, and carried on the voyage
about four hundred men, women, and children, sent out chiefly through the
Government Emigration Agents. The only first-class passengers in addition to
C----and myself were two old maiden ladies, the Misses Hunt, who, with the
doctor and his wife, the captain and first-mate, comprised our cabin party.
In the second-class were three passengers--T. Smith, whose name will
frequently appear in these pages, and two brothers called Leach, going out
to join a rich cousin, a sheep farmer in Canterbury. Smith was the son of a
wealthy squire, with whom, it appeared, he had fallen out respecting some
family matters, and in a fit of pique left his home and took passage to New
Zealand. His funds were sufficient to procure him a second-class berth, but
on representing matters to the captain, who knew something of his family, it
was arranged that he should join us in the saloon, hence he became one of
our comrades, and eventually a particular friend. The captain's name was
Ashby, and he soon proved to be a most jolly and agreeable companion. The
first-mate, Lapworth, also became a favourite with us all. The doctor was
usually drunk, or partly so, and led his wife, a kind and amiable little
lady, a very unpleasant life. The Misses Hunt were elderly, amiable, and
generally just what they should be.
Bit of excitement was the harpooning and capture of a shark which had been
following the ship for days. This is always an omen of ill-luck with
sailors, who are very superstitious, believing that a shark under such
circumstances is waiting for a body dead or alive, and will follow the ship
until its desire is appeased. They are always, therefore, keen to kill a
shark when opportunity offers. A few days subsequently a death, or rather
two deaths, did actually take place; they were the twins and only children
of a Scottish shepherd and his wife, both on board. Pretty little girls of
eight, as I remember them, playing about the deck, and favourites with all,
they died within a day of each other. The father was a gigantic fellow, and
I have pleasant recollections of him in after years, when time and other
children had helped to assuage his and his wife's grief for the loss of
their two darlings at sea by one stroke of illness. There is something more
affecting in a burial at sea than one on land. In this instance the little
body was wrapped in a white cloth, to which a small bag of coals was
fastened, and laid upon a slide projecting from the stern of the vessel
ready for immersion. The captain read the Burial Service, all on board
standing uncovered. At the words "Dust to dust," etc., the body was allowed
to slide into the sea--where it immediately disappeared. The mother was too
ill to be present, and the father's grief was severe, as it might well be,
to witness his child laid in so lonely a resting place in mid-ocean without
sign or mark. The following evening a similar scene was enacted when the
body of the other little sister was committed to the deep, and the father
had to be taken away before the service was completed. No ceremonies I
ever beheld impressed and affected me so much as the burial of the little
twins at sea.
Sailors consider that the presence of rats is a guarantee of the
seaworthiness of the ship, and they will never voluntarily take passage in a
vessel that is not sound. They were thoroughbred sailors, knew exactly
when and where to jump, and flopping on the deck at my feet would disappear,
with a twist of their tails amidships.
I always took a place with the sailors on emergencies, to give a hand at
hauling the ropes, and got to be fairly expert at climbing into the
rigging. The rope-hauling was done to some chant started by the boatswain or
one of the sailors--this is necessary to ensure that the
united strength of the pullers is exerted at the same moment. The chant is
sung out in stentorian notes by the leader, and on the word in italics every
man joins in a tremendous and united pull.One of the chants I well remember.
It was:--
"_Haul_ a bowlin', the 'Mary Anne's' a-_rollin'_.
_Haul_ a bowlin', a bowlin' _haul_;
_Haul_ a bowlin', the good ship's a-_rollin'_;
_Haul_ a bowlin', a bowlin' _haul_."
Hazel Eve from Somerset, UK wrote in 2001. My
gg uncle Henry JONES & his wife Emily left Llandenny, Mon, travelled to
Gravesend and sailed 23 Oct, 1879 on the "Piako" leaving Gravesend at 4
o'clock, arriving Lyttelton, NZ Friday, Jan 16th, 1880 at 2 p.m. (85 days).
The reason I have so much detail, my gg Uncle Henry JONES wrote a day-to-day
diary, with great detail including the fire on board, a fascinating story,
and remarkable that he survived to tell the tale. In the diary of
Henry JONES apparently there was a death on board, a Mr. Everett fell ill
and suddenly died in a spell of cold weather on Sunday, December 14th 1879,
buried at sea. Henry died 1935 aged 92. Emily (his wife died soon
after arriving in Lyttelton. They settled in Christchurch, and there were no
children. Henry JONES and his wife Emily were at "The Cayo" Llandenny,
Monmouth, England, before they left. Henry JONES was living, Lake Road,
Leeston, Canterbury. Unfortunately there is no surviving passenger list for
the "Piako" which arrived in Lyttelton January 1880. The Supplementary
Passenger Index taken from the "Lyttelton Times" 1850-1888 at the Canterbury
Museum. It comprised Cabin or Paying Passengers where no original passenger
lists are available. Unfortunately it did not list assisted passengers.
Found the following for the "Piako"
Miss Emily Jones, saloon
Miss Florence Jones, saloon, Miss Nellie Jones, saloon
William Jones and Mrs William Jones, saloon.
Cartsburn, ship, 1251 tons, from
Glasgow to Canterbury, July 1874. A short journal of the voyage,
written by Robert Hutton, 24, single, blacksmith, from Lanark, Scotland kept
Some extracts (with original spelling):-
Apr 8th 1874 - "We weighed our anchor at 5 am this morning and got in tough
of the tug Waker which took us as far as the Holy Isle & then left us . . we
wer then left to the mercy of the waves and wind. . ."
Apr 11th - "a hen comitted sueside by flying overbord today & drowning
herself. We are getting allong with our jurney now that is we are commencing
to sail a little better & I feel I am going to get sick for the first I did
so & very sick to. I went to bunk & lay thare till I got better. I was as
right as a fiddle when I was lying on my back but when I got up I was always
sick . . . "
Apr 13th - "Our fore sheet was carried away into ribens but before morning
the wind had abated but the ship rolling from rail to rail. You would think
that she would tumble over every roll. We cannot ly in our bunks. . . . .
(Apr 15th) I did not care suppose the ship had gone to the bottom & the
whole bang along with her."
April 19th - "The porpoises are nocking round the ship in great sholls &
some of the young men are amusing themselves trying to harpoon some of them
if they can but thare efforts has gone all for nothing. They did not catch
any fish that day."
Apr 23rd - "Lying still becalmed [off the Madeira Islands]. I went on deck
this morning to have a bath as it was all the fashion to do. Sor for it is
getting dreadful hot but I am getting frightned for the water they use &
went below again. . ."
Apr 28th - "Fine day with a fare wind . . . A old brown retrever dog
belonging to the First Mate made an attempt to catch a rat at the mizen
shrouds, over balanced & fell overbord. It was an old hand in the ship. It
had been in her for 4 years (much regretted)."
May 1st - "I went to bed in the evening as usual. Several of the young men
not going they started a fight with water which continued for about
4 hours of corced. Not being asleep got up in my draws & joined the band.
Too Irishmen two messes further down than us who wer almost alive, we got
them to get up & hase some fun along with us. We all had buckets each filled
with water & when they came on deck we turned to them & drenched them
properly & hunted them through the ship. Then we went below & started in our
own mess with a laddyda naimed Tom Gallowy & pasted him & several more with
wet shirts & bags so they went aft & told the Mate but by this time I was in
my bunk. The Mate came down with them holding a lamp to see the place in its
confusion. It was a dreadful specktle. When the notice was put up next
morning as follows:"
"Single Men are requested to go below at 9 pm be in bed at 10 pm & after
this notice any one guilty of riottousness or insobordinate conduct he shall
be liable for each offence 1 months impresment & a fine of 2 pounds stirling.
Everyone to be out of bed by 7 am."
May 5th - "Went to hunt for grey backs. I got three on my blankets but I
have took them off altogether for it is too hot. I am sleeping with nothing
but my covering. One will have to watch & try and keep himself clear or H
Hall's words would come to pass that is getting as lousy as a bendiecock
although thare never was one in my head the whole voyage."
May 27th - "She made a fine run yesterday & appears to keep it up still it
is moonlight just now & it is a beautiful sight on the sea at night.
Indeed I am thinking if I was getting a good food as I would like I could
stop at sea altogether. It is so pleasant to be lying up on poop with a
deary in your arms & doing a quiet chat & smocking a seagar."
June 12 - "Fine weather with showers occasionally. We made a very good run
yesterday. All is well on bord but we are getting tired of this sort of life
the nearer we are getting, I only wish I could get ashore to have a good
walk & come back again. We can only get walking about 20 yards at a time &
many a dreary mile I have walked on that same promonade."
June 15th - "Another child about a year old died this morning. Some time
thare is great complaints about them not getting enough of milk for to
nurish them & the cold is so intense just now it takes grone up people all
thare time to stand it."
June 16th - "I have just had a good laugh at a young man who was caught
smocking down below, that is down the forehatch. It is a great offence.
He was put up in a small boat to sit thare all day without food It is not
the doing without food but it is so cold after dinner one of his messmates
was trying to hand him up a biscuit & a piece of pork was caught in the
act."
June 26th - "There is some of the passengers on bord has been proposing to
give Captain Young a present & a testimonial the same as some of the
Captains had got before him but the majority is against it. We had a meeting
in among the young men but they came to no arrangement for one could hear
nothing for rowing and shouting."
July 6th - "All in great glee of landing and making great preparation for
it. Getting everything tied up and put fast."
Robert summarizes their arrival: The Cartsburn reached the heads
along with the Hindostan from London ("a proper dirty looking craft
inside & outside") on the 12th of July, then:-
"The steam boat came alongside & put abord our pilate who took us too our
anchorage that was 5 o-clock just getting dark. We lay thair to Tuerday
morning when we got the tug which took us to Port Chalmers & the Inspectors
came on abord & said they had not seen such a clean tidy ship in the past &
shuch fine tween decks. They wer almost as high as the ceiling of a house.
The anchor was not 1/2 a hour down when I had my foot on shore. This is not
allowed but I went & asked the Captain & got away but did not take my chest
nor anything with me. I was back on bord twice for fun more than any other
thing. You know that the Government has to take the passengers when they
arrive & keep them either in the ship or in the bericks that they have
provided for imagrants till they find them situations but I was never in the
bericks only to see what kind of place it was & I can ashure you I would not
like to stay in it but it is good enough if one canot better himself. You
get plenty of meat. I will have to stop this as I am getting tired of it &
before you get it all read I expect you will be also. I hope you will excuse
bad spelling & all the rest of the mistakes I have made."
On 1 October 1879, John Coulson Fowler
(1850-1923) and his wife, Emma Isabella (c.1852-1924 ), sailed from London
as first class passengers on the good ship 'Western Monarch',
arriving in Wellington on 2 January 1880. The 45 page diary kept during the
voyage was for friends and relatives in England. A copy of John's diary is
at the Ian Matheson City Archives, 4 The Square, Palmerston North. It
records the day-to-day routines and incidents of life on board, including
observations on food, weather, and their diminishing hopes of reaching New
Zealand by Christmas. He made the comment they were going to N.Z to
make their fortune. The trip was very hard and the food was mainly boiled
beef and potatoes. They left Manchester 30 September 1879 and sailed from
Gravesend October 1st 1879. They travelled by barge to Gravesend and
scrambled on board. They had their papers checked as they boarded.
This guy was over
weight and had to pay excess. He was not happy about that. Also they had to
supply their own crockery, etc. for the trip and he had to put up shelves to
keep them on. Their meals were all delivered to their cabins. There is no
mention of names of the other passengers.
South
Seas (National Library of Australia) an online information resource for
the history of European voyaging and cross-cultural encounters in the
Pacific between 1760 and 1800. Focused on James Cook’s momentous first
voyage of discovery of 1768-1771. The full text of the holograph manuscript
of James Cook’s Endeavour Journal held by the National Library of Australia,
together with the full texts of the journals kept by Joseph Banks and Sydney
Parkinson on the voyage. All three volumes of John Hawkesworth’s Account of
the Voyages undertaken in the Southern Hemisphere (1773).
Author David Hasting’s book Over the Mountains of the Sea: Life on the Migrant Ships 1870–1885 (Auckland University Press) 2006. 294 p. ill. ; Includes bibliographical references (256-288) and index. Draws on the records of 250 voyages and 80 shipboard diaries to give a vibrant, stark and gritty picture of migrant life onboard ships travelling to New Zealand in the late nineteenth century (average duration 96 days!) covering the ships, route, the captains and crews, the doctors, births, deaths and illness, health, religion, the passengers, single women, the departure, the accommodation, social class, cabin and steerage, the routines of the passage, the food and preparation of it, leisure and entertainment, the writing of letters and diaries, the voyage and conditions, weather, fights, disagreements, crime, punishment , mutiny, the tensions that arise from being stuck on a small ship and the arrival. William Gray’s shipboard diary is held, along with a transcription of it, in “Special Collections” at the Central City Library. The Auckland City Library’s rich heritage collection, including William Gray’s diary, was used extensively by David Hastings in researching Over the Mountains of the Sea. The book finishes with the brief settler stories of many of those whose diaries were used to provide details for the book.
It is interesting to see what happens to our ancestors things and the prices that they can fetch!

Aotearoa New Zealand Centre
at the Christchurch Central Library has an
incomplete copy of the diary and there is no information about the surname
of a child in the diary.
| Dimensions of the Ship Merope Width 38 feet Length ___ Draft 20 feet H. William Commander 1082 tons Register Burden built in Sutherland April 1870 Classed __ 16 years ____ ___ Ship ___ ___ ___ London page 2 . Sunday 19th. Light head winds & heavy rain all Saturday night wind varying 4 points 12 ct. in Lat 10. 11N Long 27.40 W Dist 92 miles. 2 Children Christened. The one that was Born on Board was named Elizabeth Merope the Ship's name Monday 20th 1874. Light Winds & Variable all day & night in Lat. Tuesday 21st Light winds & heavy Showers of Rain |
The Merope Sailed from Plymouth on Saturday June 27 1874 Bound for Lyttelton New Zealand. Weather very fine at 10 o'clock the wind fresh? and We made 12 knots an hour till the 28th that we entered the Bay of Biscay when almost all the Passengers were Sick Blowing fresh from the North??? Monday 29th. Strong head wind from Back Ship till 12 ___ 10 o'clock. Calm Wednesday July 13th Light wind and variable Ship P___ for ___ fell __ Sunday 30th_____ and there say had food ___ ___ ___ when it cleared a little I ___ Wind Friday 30 Head Wind |
Most of those who did not finish their voyage diaries, did at least preserve until they met the more violent weather of the Southern Ocean. It was when ships were running their "Easting Down", in the "Roaring Forties", etc, that conditions were often crowded, cold and wet below deck - most uncomfortable and unsuitable for writing letters and diaries, and enough to deter even the most hardened sea traveller from recording such a depressing scene! Ian Nicholson. 1993
Sailing to Australia : shipboard diaries by
nineteenth-century British emigrants / Andrew Hassam. Published: Manchester ; NY:
Manchester University Press, c1994. 235 p.
No privacy for writing : shipboard diaries 1852-1879 / [edited by] Andrew Hassam.
Published: Carlton, Vic. : Melbourne University Press, 1995. 235 p
30 August 1768
"Wind still Foul, ship in violent motion, but towards Evening much more quiet: Now for the first time my Sea sickness left me, and I was sufficiently well to write." The Endeavour Journal of Joseph Banks
Beauchamp, Harold, Sir, 1858-1938. Beauchamp, Annie, d. 1918. A Shipboard Diary / written by Annie & Harold Beauchamp, on board RMS "Ruahine", Wellington to London, from 19 March to 5 May 1898, and sent home for their children on their arrival in England ; introduced here by Ian A. Gordon ; and with 3 interruptions by Caroline Williams. Auckland, N.Z. : Holloway Press, 1998
Otago Bound
The Otago Daily Times ran a feature, "Voyage
to a New Land", to mark the 150th anniversary of organised settlement in
Dunedin. Each week from 26 Nov. 1997 until March 23 1998, Otago Anniversary Day,
voyage accounts from diaries by a John Wickliffe
emigrant Thomas Ferens, 24, a Methodist from East Rainton, Durham, and Rev Thomas
Burns, 51, a Philip
Laing passenger, and Archibald McDonald, a teacher, and passenger on the
Philip Laing were published. Ferens on his arrival in Otago took up
work as an assistant schoolteacher at Waikouaiti and then became a farmer, developing a
merino sheep flock on Stotfield Station, Kakanui. His future wife, Margaret, also came out
on John Wickliffe. The Otago Settlers Museum has the
diaries or copies of them.
Both John Wickliffe and Philip Laing, which departed from Greenock in Scotland three days later, had the misfortune to sail immediately into one of the worst storms of the year.
The John Wickliffe.
November 26, 1847 Ferens wrote:
"Set sail from Gravesend on Wednesday. Anchored at Morgate Road to wait for a fair wind; a slight breeze took us to the Downs, where we endeavoured to put out to sea; were met by a south-west wind which was directly embracing and swelled with a most tempestuous and stormy sea. A most awful night was passed, with fears of a sea shore (wreck) but fortunately we had made well out to sea, but were driven back to the Downs.
Sailed on the 28th and driven back a second time, and eventually sailed on the 4th December; a heavy gale came down and drove us to St Helen, Isle of Wight, removed from there to Mother Bank - sailed from thence on Tuesday, 14th, round the Isle of Wight, accompanied by the Bellesophon, which got to windward, and cleared away to sea.
We had hard labour through the English Channel and most of the passengers were infected by sea sickness and change of diet and air. I had the sea sickness, and very much annoyed in other ways, confined to bed for four or five days, no appetite for food, constant wretchedness of the body and mind, the latter from the want of comforts and friendly attention, and especially when in this state of debility.
Oh the pain of wind in such a fix - destined for another country - out at sea and experiencing the wants of necessary comforts and no kind hand nor soft voice to cheer, or console, but such are every emigrant's failing.
I will note that during one night's gale the 3rd mate fell overboard but fortunately seized a rope in his fall. A sailor, the name of Dick, seeing him fall was springing from the bulwarks to catch a rope to throw at him when he fell head foremost into a large tub of salt water, which, he said, "made him feel all queer"...."
December 9.
In Irish Channel. Dreadful storm commencing at 4pm and lasting till midnight. The hurricane spread the utmost terror and consternation over all - sickness ceased to exist, terror alone found a residence in the heart. By picturing all this and say half the aforementioned number of people in bed, sick and vomiting all around, with the strong in all directions running for empty pails and buckets, you will be led to conceive how fit such a family is for a hurricane. Such was our state, however, when the storm reached us and when it did commence, as I have said, terror occupied the place of sickness, and consigned the faint and weak-hearted to their beds.
The remainder were in a sad enough plight, having to contend with water, boxes, chests, and a number of inexpressibles that, after keeping up a running fight, at last obtained a complete mastery, driving foe by foe to seek alternately refuge with the sick and wounded, the pitching and rolling of the ship along with the runaway boxes and dishes being too much for anyone, however dauntless, to contend against unless they wanted themselves to be deprived of life or limb.
Not a word or a sound was heard above the raging hurricane without; not a sound was breathed save the secret whisper or prayer of despair within. Tongues that had never uttered the name of the Almighty save in profanity now, I believe for the first time in sincerity, fervently sought His protection. Nothing seemed to be awaiting us but the jaws of the deep and everyone was with dread and consternation looking every minute for death. This fearful and precarious situation continued until midnight, when the violence of the storm began to abate.
Daylight gave a full view of the war that had been going on `midships and then all who were able commenced a search for runaways. A number were recovered but I am sorry to say a number had been captured and taken possession of as lawful prey.
December 10.
Weather calmer. Disturbances arising from the doctor still withholding the allowance of food assigned by the Company; he again assembles the emigrants and in harsh language tells them he has them in his power and will treat them as he thinks fit. Everyone ready for blows. Women advising the men not to stand the doctor's brutality any longer. Midnight scarcely puts an end to the excitement. Nothing again this day but the pint of gruel; sick and well get nothing else. A great number of the married men in a very excited state and all that was wanted to lead to blood and mutiny was a leader to strike the first blow. None, however, would be the first aggressor and after a wrangle till midnight they one after another betook themselves to a troubled repose.December 24:
Today Mr E. B. Atkinson and I have been very busily engaged in giving out rations to the passengers. Each one received ˝lb of flour, ˝lb of raisins and 1oz of suet as an extra allowance for Christmas. About 3 this afternoon we passed by Port Santa (Porto Santo) - Madeira was seen in the distance in the dusk - and we passed it during the night of Christmas (which) was passed with singing many anthems and choruses.
Christmas Day:
I rose about 6 o'clock, the sun rose about 7 o'clock, a clear sky and soft north-east breeze. Supposed to have got into the trade winds. I with nothing particular transpired, sought some amusements that the sailors had. I had some very profitable conversation with a Mr Henderson on colonisation and on a proper character that ought to go - temperate, resolute, patient, energetic now, that are capable to put their hands and minds to anything. Many were the reflections that engaged my mind on first Christmas days, how and with whom I had spent them with, but this one excelled all others for the beauty, temperature and placidity.
December 26:
Divine Service at 10.30 - Rev Mr Nicholson, preached. Land was seen ahead, the Canary Islands, we gradually came up to them towards night, the most westward of them we came near to which was Pala, which was supposed to be between 4 to 5000 feet in height. Snow was seen very distinctly on the top of the mountains, which appeared to be barren without much vegetable substance.
December 28:
Up at 6 o'clock and had a good airing for about half an hour on the forecastle. Nothing could be seen of the vessels of the previous day. It's just 13 days since we left the Mother bank, Portsmouth. In the forenoon there fell a heavy and refreshing shower of rain, everyone on board appeared to rejoice at the falling rain. The geese and ducks partook in the giving expression to their gladness of the boon, as much as anyone on board. Great eagerness was manifested everyone to catch the fresh water as a great gift; it was highly prized above the ship's water.
December 29
On this morning all things were cheering, sailing at the rate of 9 and 10 knots an hour - at 12 o'clock the latitude 21 degrees 67 north of the Equator, the wind still keeping up at the same briskness.December 30
The atmosphere was heavy and threatening rain, the wind had kept up the same rate as the previous day, and during the night, and maintained the same power in sailing along at the rate of 9 and 10 knots an hour. Today I had put into my hands an address which was to be a commencement of a periodical during our voyage, and to which I consented to become and contribute to - and to assist in drawing up as assistant editor. It was called the Otago Pioneer.
December 31
At six o'clock, on coming on deck, information was given that we were opposite, or rather alongside, the Cape-de-Verde Islands, the most western being St Autoria. It was very indistinctly seen as the haziness of the morning was great - the brisk wind had ceased, as we passed the land - but after it was passed the wind sprang up again, which threw the vessel more on her side, and the water heaved more, which made everyone feel uncomfortable. Much heaviness, and in some instances there was sickness, prevailed. As for myself I suffered much from acidity of the stomach. I got from the Doctor (Manning) a saline draught and a blue pill, which I soon vomited, as every part of food created acid which caused me very uneasy feelings. New Year's Eve was passed away in a very sickly way. Went to rest at 9pm, the atmosphere was close and heavy.
January 1
I rose this morning a little better, but still much troubled with the acid of my stomach. I took some Carbonate of Soda this morning which did me good, and which I used at other intervals during the day. During the day many of the flying fish were seen and some attempts were made to catch some of them, and other descriptions of fish. Some were caught, and except the flying fish, was boiled for a lady in a poop cabin. The North Pole and Northern Hemisphere is disappearing from our view and a quite different scenery is appearing every night to view in the Heavens. The winds have been unhealthy and thick and heavy having come from the deserts of African Sahara.
January 2
I felt something of a pleasure this morning on rising to know and feel that I was much lightsomeness and easier in the mind and body. The atmosphere and air was a great deal purer than we have had for the last two days. The sun had great power, but not so scorching as it would be on land. There are two or three passengers very sick and unwell in the main hatchway, and a ventilator has been put into it which has greatly relieved the passengers from the great oppression.
January 3
Heat was felt to be very close and sulphurous during the night; wind sails were put down the hatchways which produced a freer ventilation. The Doctor made each individual have clear and freshness of air into all the berths. This afternoon, two vessels were seen ahead, one homeward bound, and the other outward, steering the same course as we were. It is necessary to have very light clothes on, and very little hair on the heads for several reasons.
We ought this morning to have commenced with the school, but as usual were obliged to put off until a further period. Mr Monson was manager and I am chosen as his assistant, on account of Mr C. Bentley still remaining so unwell. Great preparations are being made amongst the sailors for shaving on the Line.
January 4.
I had a refreshing bath this morning at 5am. Numerous fishes were seen, in particular of a triangular shape, and of a light amber, or a violet colour, called by the sailors Portugese Men of war. Swallows or storm birds of a dark brown colour were seen skimming along the surface of the water. The atmosphere turned densely close and sulphurous, the heavens were charged with electricity and the lightning tonight was very vivid, with slight showers of rain. It was cool and refreshing on deck until 10pm when I retired to rest.
January 5.
Rose at 5am and had bath at 6am and had boiled barley to breakfast. Cut a number of the passengers' hair. At about 10 o'clock vessels were seen, one ahead, and the other astern. The former was homeward bound and as there was a calm so near the Line, passengers were privileged with writing letters to their respective friends at home. I wrote to my sister (Mary Ann), my prayers and thoughts ever ascended to heaven for her and hers. Dolphins were seen. A boat from the ship was launched to go to the homeward-bound vessel, which was a Dutchman.
I had great pleasure in looking up to the heavens until midnight and saw constellations that were south to us, now taking themselves to be northern observations. The Great Bear was not to be seen at all, the North Pole was entirely out of sight. Many of the southern constellations were to be seen just above the horizon . The Magellan clouds were seen an immense cluster of stars in the Milky Way that were directly over the Magellan Straits, from which they derive their name.
January 7
The sun rose in a clear ethereal sky, the heat was intense, numbers of the passengers were quite overpowered and some very unwell; as for myself I had a heaviness of the head and acidity of the stomach (for which) I took a dose of Gregory's mixture of Carbon of Soda and water. Some of the sailors and passengers were quite enthusiastic in casting hooked lines.
January 8
I feel better this morning, but still there is that unpleasant taste arising from my stomach which creates sickness and heaviness arising. Potatoes were finished!!
January 9
It was a beautiful morning after the night rain. The cabin in which I slept in was very uncomfortable and unpleasant from an unwholesome effluvia arising from the WC adjoining it. At 12 o'clock Neptune came on board, one of the sailors , a tall athletic man dressed in flannel drawers, with a sheepskin about his loins and a bell for a sword and pistol and a light vest, with a false beard, whiskers and hair which was long and made a tow, with a made up face which added to his figure, and ferocious appearance and monster-like aspect. He leapt upon the forecastle with a speaking trumpet in his hand. After saluting the Captain at the poop, he proceeded thence to a tar barrel which was thrown overboard as a protest of his disappearing in his Chariot.
January 10
Much rainfall during the night. One of the most splendid and enrapturing skies I never before beheld than I did this morning at a rising sun, a golden horizon. Dark clouds above it and to the south; over this light cloud a dark brown, and several other coloured clouds, beautifully gilded, but that which added so much to its grandeur was the blue ethereal sky. Much cavilling and underhanded work was at work about Neptune's duty amongst the passengers etc, etc!
January 17.
At such a rate we shall soon gain our destined haven, much speculation as to the time we shall arrive at New Zealand, some two months, others 10 weeks (away). The weather keeps fair and hot but the wind breathes a coolness that makes it even agreeable. One requisite thing for those who come to sea is to be properly prepared for every change - diet, medicine, clothing and a discretionary precaution in the use of every article. The plainer and simpler the food is, the better for the body.
January 18.
At 2 o'clock, a slave vessel crossed our bow about 2 miles from us, bound for Brazil. After tea, Mr Monson and I were sitting along with Mr and Mrs Cook, who have been resident for many years at the Bay of Islands, New Zealand. Mrs C. related a very amusing anecdote; that when Mr Hobbs and his wife, a Wesleyan missionary, landed, as the custom is the natives are obliged to carry parties on their shoulders to the shore on account of the flat and mud and dirtiness of the water. One lusty fellow engaged to carry Mrs Hobbs on shore; on half-way he turned tired on account of H's weight and set her down in the sand and water, and said to her that he wanted a rest. After some remonstrance by Mrs H. she said that now as she was so wet, she would not be carried any more but that she would walk the remainder of the way to the shore herself, and she did.
January 19.
Mr Monson has again urged the necessity of the school being commenced (for the children on board), and now we are, him and I, engaged to make the forms and a desk for the children to sit at. From 10 to 4 we were engaged in them and finished them, out of very rough material, but they will suit our purpose.
January 20.
This evening Captain Cargill assembled all the passengers on board to give some plan or idea how cottages or huts can be more readily erected, and upon sound and good enduring principle.
January 24.
This afternoon about 2 o'clock, a squall overtook us, we only got a small part of it, it was an attracting sight to see a storm before us and one behind, the one behind had something more striking and terrific about it. At the worst part of it a whirlwind was observed to be moving with great power, twisting and whirling the water out of the ocean with a terrible force and raising immense clouds and commotion in the air. Two or three were seen at one time, but they joined the greater and at the crises out of the dense cloud of the storm, a spout was sent forth out of the cloud to the body of water that the whirlwind was forcing up out of the sea. It fed for about 10 (minutes) or Ľ of an hour, and then the whirlwind gradually subsided away, and then the spout was also gradually drawn up into the cloud. It is a most pleasing sight at a distance.
January 26.
The Dutchman is ahead this morning on the lee bow and is now again on the weather bow. Telegraphic signals were exchanged for some time between the vessels, as the Captain and some of the passengers wanted to go on board. The starboard boat was let down and many of them went and spent three hours with them and they returned about 2 o'clock, with the Captain of the Dutch vessel - Minerva of Middleburgh - and two of his passengers. They dined in the poop at 6 o'clock. Mrs and Miss Cargill, Mrs Garrick and Miss Alexander with others out of the poop went on board the Dutchman. The boat returned two or three times for different things. They were treated with music from the fife and drum band and plenty of vocal music and dancing, they kept excellent time. The last of the passengers came back at 12 o'clock, most of them inebriated - oh how base and degrading to men of part and intellect.
January 27.
The heat has been very great during the night. The heat during the morning was very oppressive; many of the sailors bathed last night and this morning were over the bows of the vessel bathing and swimming.
The John Wickliffe took 129 days to reach Port Chalmers on March 23, 1848.
Homesickness added to the problems with seasickness
January 30.
My mind has been often at [Durham] this morning ruminating upon the different beloved objects of my affections and wondering what they are engaged in. The school has also a share of my thoughts; Oh that those little ones may be led and guided with wise and pure principles to God their Sovereign and Lord. I cannot account for the cause of my mind being so distracted as everything in and about the ship has annoyed my mind more or less - the curious and burlesque, postures and varied positions, and mode and manners, and actions: some reading, sleeping, talking, and others serious, solemn and meditating.
We had the children collected this afternoon and catechised them a little and finished up by singing Come to Jesus . The nightly shades have come on in great wildness with darkness and clouds of threatening fury; at 8, the sternsails were all taken down as a precaution against the gales of wind in the night. It is turning cold at night now in these latitudes though it be at the height of summer.
February 2.
At 7 o'clock I beheld for the first time an albatross, the mariners bird. That piece of poetry [The Ancient Mariner ] of Coleridge's came into my mind with great force. It has a noble appearance as it gallantly towers near and round the vessel; it has kept towering round and round the vessel all day. A great many of the passengers have had their guns out firing at it from 9, and none [were] able to hit it until 4pm this afternoon when one from the stern part shot it through, and it fell fluttering on to the water; unable to raise itself up again, it swam on the tops of the waves with outstretched wings; it went with the tide.
February 3.
The albatrosses have been flying about the ship today again. Attempts have been made to catch them by the hook and line, and others have been using their shotguns. One poor creature dropped today, also in the ocean, from a gun's shot. Two of the sailors got drunk this afternoon from breaking into a barrel of bottled ale. One them for his bad conduct was put in chains.
February 6.
The night was rather dull, but very refreshing. A number of porpoises were running ahead and it is an interesting thing to see the fish skudding under the waters. The cry was "Fish, fish, fish!!!" When a general stampede of the passengers [occurred] from all parts of the vessel to [see], one of the sailors with a harpoon descended down into the martingale, with a strong rope through a block some how or other, when he struck the fish. Those who were to have hauled in the rope through the block pulled a company and nearly pitched the youngest sailor boy and myself overboard with the rope fastened round my leg. It was work of a moment - no harm done, as all was over too soon and the harpoon broke and the fish got away, so adieu to porpoise catching after this event.
The John Wickliffe well south of South Africa and on an eastwards heading, though Captain Daly continued to drive south to catch the stronger winds.
February 9.
I had the happiness of assisting in the skinning of an albatross, monstrous thick in the skin, their feet and legs, were also cut off. I got one and some of the others got them for tobacco fobs. I have appropriated mine for a purse, taken the bones out, and peeled the skin open, which gives it the form of a fancy silk bag. I got one of the skins, but the sailors had so damaged it that it was of no purpose; however I took the bones out of the wings and then for a bit of fun, I put my arms into the parts where I took the bones out, and put it on as a jacket, and ran up on deck where many strange and foolish conversations were made by the poop passengers. This is the 11th week since we left Gravesend, England.
February 11.
Every one is making remarks of the great change that has taken place in my appearance, the rounding of my face and the bronzed and ivory complexion.
February 13.
I feel altogether out of my elements when Sunday comes, sad and thoughtful. Mr Nicholson preached - as a man he is a decent fellow - but as for his sermons they are No Go!!
February 15.
This morning I was roused out of my berth by a great stir on deck, the sailors were all hauling, pulling and shouting, and la hooing as many of the sails again were suffering from a strong wind. During the morning the ship had been going at the rate of a shod horse through the waters, on account of the Captain being such a man for keeping the yards filled with sails and canvas.
February 17.
All night the wind was strong and carrying us through with great rapidity. At 4 this morning I awoke nearly upright, as the ship was riding through the water nearly on her broadside at 12 and 13 knots, all studding sails were kept up until 3 watch, when all were taken down. I have been busily engaged all day carrying water from the bottom of the berth. A lookout is kept for Prince Edward Island on the one hand and the Marion Islands on the other.
February 18.
At about 11 it was announced that an iceberg of large dimensions was seen at a good distance on the starboard bow. The appearance of it was a greenish white in the shade of the sun, as the day was fine and clear and refreshing. On account of the iceberg, we have altered our course to south-east to clear ourselves of it. The air became very frosty and cold, a few hails and flakes of snow fell, a whale of large dimensions spouted up the water and the noise was something resembling an engine. Its length appeared to be about the length of the vessel.
February 20.
The berth was disagreeable, the water rushed in from abominable water closet. I had very little rest what from the excitement of going so far south and being among the icebergs. I had to buckle to and carry out the water by the buckets. The sails were all double reefed, the vessel shipped strong seas, (and) we were fastened below all day as the hatchways were closed - the sea was awfully grand, rough and stormy.
February 22.
A disturbance with the Captain and Captain Cargill took place during the afternoon, about the store between decks, and Dr Manning is blamed for it and was told plainly of his (troubling) ways.
February 23.
The wind this morning has again come aft, which makes it a little more agreeable sailing, but not so rapid. The weather is damp, thick, cold and raw. Many are the (disputes) one with the other, what from provisions not being good, and not served out properly, many being embezzled, and bartered for things that have no means of comforting or benefiting the passengers, but a complete and roguish appropriation to Dr Manning and his clan. There is also a strange contrivance with him and the Captain and officers to plunder both us and the New Zealand Company - things have had their turn today in full exposure and in a way to be remembered.
February 25.
At 5pm land was seen ahead. Oh what a thought and sensation it produced in the minds and breasts of those who have not seen land for some time - Kerguelen Island - or Desolation was the land seen. The atmosphere was dense, and thick over it which greatly deceived all before we could tack about. We were within 6 or 7 miles from it, which becalmed us, and were liable to be drifted on to the shore. There is no fear; the clouds lifted themselves a little from the horizon, which (led to) a clearing away of the misty, raw state of the atmosphere.March 1
The wind blows fresh and strong, the decks are dry, though the air is damp and keen. Tonight many are the speculations when we shall arrive at Otago. Mr Mosley took a fit [ a nightmare] this morning at 4am.
March 2:
I was this morning roused up out of my sleep by Mr Mosley, in a fit at 5am. The sky was clear and pleasant, the wind shifted on to the port quarter, which has brought a heavy, hazy atmosphere. George Jefferson, a sailor, because he was obstreperous and would not go to work aft, for some trivial altercation with the Boatswain, Captain and himself, is put in irons until we reach New Zealand. For the last two or three days large sheets of seaweed have been seen floating on the surface of the waters where probably islands may appear.
March 4
It is a most pleasant and beautiful morning, rather chill, the wind has again changed on to the port side, but the weather continues clear as we now are coming in parallel with the Australian continent, which materially alters the state of the atmosphere.March 5
I had a most excellent night's sleep, but during the last two or three nights I have talked much in my sleep. Strange to say from leaving East Rainton I have never so much as been disturbed, or dreamt at night of Home. Mr N. preached on the poop, a skinny affair without marrow, bones, or sinews - he never gets below skin deep.
March 6
The air and atmosphere is now warm and clear to what we have had. I rose this morning at a little after 5 o'clock. A singular circumstance was related to me by the chief mate, that he had seen penguins swimming alongside the ship. They are never known to do so but when land is near. No known land nearer than Australia. The ship is given to be a fortnight from New Zealand.
March 7
Calm, warm, heavy atmosphere. Hazy and decidedly thick tonight.
March 8
Mild but thick atmosphere, wind aft - a slight change to the port .
March 9
Thick, hazy, no observations. There has been a swell from the south since last night and the wind is changing.
March 10
A strong wind from the south and a heavy sea, and a thick unpleasant and damp day. I was sick today from an unpleasant effluvia from a capsized water closet.
March 12
A cold but pleasant morning. I did not attend service on the poop this morning for private reasons.
March 15
A more agreeable morning, with the wind coming aft. The day has been pleasant and refreshing after the heavy weather for the last few days. A great number of birds have been touring round and round the vessel. The Aurora Borealis is beautiful, the first I have seen since coming into the Southern Hemisphere.
March 16
Dull, cloudy morning, no sun for an observation, a good strong and heavy wind 2 points abaft the beam on the port side. Great preparations are making for our arrival.
March 19
Evening indications are apparent that land is not very far off. Dull with occasional glimpses of the sun during the forenoon, and in the afternoon the sun shone forth brightly.March 20
A general commotion was felt throughout the ship amongst all hands as we were in sight of the Middle [South] Island early this morning. We had stood off to sea during the night, having had a strong breeze. A long chain of land could be distinctly seen with some high peaks in the interior, and as we neared it became thick and misty. A large porpoise was caught, cut up and most of it was cooked. I ate a little of it at dinner, with rice. It tasted really good, and the blubber was boiled down for oil. It rained heavily during the forenoon and did not clear off until midday, yet the haziness still did not clear off the land. Trees could be seen on the range above another [line] of hills. This afternoon we were opposite to the Molyneux River mouth - it has a fine entrance, and a beautiful prospective view up into the land. We have had many changes of the wind and made very little progress during the day. Tonight we have again tacked off to sea to keep from coming on a lee shore. Guns were fired hoping to gain a pilot, but not a man could be discerned, [although] whalers and sailors are squatted all along the coast.
March 21
This morning at 4 o'clock when we made tack we came right opposite to the Saddle Back Hill [Saddle Hill], which much resembles a soldier's saddle. There are some very striking landmarks. We have tacked off and on during the day but have gained very little. Guns were fired but still no human being made their appearance. We endeavoured to weather the point of Cape Saunders [and], in order to do so, we stood off to sea for the night on a long tack.
Birds of all descriptions are here: gulls, whale birds, sea pigeons, albatrosses, cormorants. The air is most delightful, a salty ethereal sky.
Oh what restlessness and anxiety to gain the anchorage and be on shore.
March 20.
Much eagerness has been manifested by a number of the passengers early this morning to look for land. The Snares were espied at 5 o'clock am. Two small islands, a few rocks. How strange the feelings become on nearing the land you are desiring to be at!! Mr Nicholson preached - misty and dull. Occasionally the clouds lifted up the horizon in order to give the people the power to observe when the land appeared. At 5 o'clock Stewart Island was seen with a misty cloud hanging over it.
After her tacking duel with the wind up the coast, the John Wickliffe stood off the entrance to Otago Harbour.
Wednesday, March 22.
I rose this morning at 4 o'clock with the point of the harbour in view. We have kept tacking off and on to gain the entrance of the harbour. The air and sky is most beautiful and serene. A gun was fired at 6 o'clock, after which 2 boats were seen coming forth from the mouth of the harbour with Mr Kettle, the land surveyor, and Mr Driver, the pilot. Everything so far comes up to what we (hoped) - abundance of pigs, cattle and sheep, pigeons and birds of various kinds, and the anchorage at the mouth of the harbour and the harbour teemed with fish. We have anchored at the mouth of the harbour, as the wind is unfavourable.
The passage has been upon the whole an agreeable and pleasant one, most prosperous sailing 99 days from Portsmouth, and 120 days from Gravesend. No deaths, births, or marriages on board.
This afternoon Mr Monson and his son John and I went out in one of the boats with three Maoris fishing the barracouta by steering a long pole with a short piece of wood and a crooked nail at the end which is attached with a string to the pole in the water, similar to stirring. We rowed about and caught 3; they are delightful baking.
At night a boat had come alongside and a number of natives; they are very peaceful, intelligent men, and then another boat landed with some of the passengers that had gone out in the morning, with the Chief Taiaroa and his son and many others.
Thursday, March 23, 1848.
A great day, I rose about 4 o'clock by the sailors weighing up the anchor as the wind was northwest. As we entered into the harbour it is a most delightful and picturesque domestic scene; heights on either side, we saw the native village on the native reserves, and further on a small village of settlers and whalers.
The cormorants rose out of the water as we approached, by thousands. The scenery as we gained Port Chalmers, where we anchored, put me in remembrance of a great part of the Cumberland scenery, the imagination fired, and here will nature triumphant and bring the mind to rejoice and adore the divine being.
I and E. B. Atkinson with Dr Manning and Mr Levell went ashore, and at Port Chalmers Henry and John Monson joined and we went up into the bush - I was grub carrier - and we dined at 4 o'clock with 2 Maoris in the bush on fish and sweet potatoes. Thence up to the heights and rambled amongst the supplejacks - a type of cane. Underwood numerous cabbage trees, ferns, trees, shrub plants, brambles. It was truly an enjoyable break.....
`Philip Laing'
The comfort of life on board Philip Laing, recorded Archibald McDonald, soon turned on matters of hygiene. The crowded ship was now subject to the presence of several non-paying passengers.
November 26, 1847 wrote McDonald
Having got everything on board, we were towed by a steamer to the Tail of the Bank at noon, and having cleared the harbour, gave three cheers, which were responded to by the crowd of spectators assembled on shore witnessing our departure.
December 3
Still in Lamlash Bay, all the passengers indisposed with colds. This morning children's porridge withheld by Dr Ramsay's orders. The children very weak, not agreeing with tea and hard biscuit for breakfast. Deputation sent to the doctor to try and prevail with him to allow the children porridge; were told that porridge was not good for them. Parents in great uneasiness about their feeble infants and children. Three constables appointed by Dr Ramsay, one of whom, acting up to the temper of his master, kept agoing a petty warfare over every trifling incident. Likewise they had to see that the watch in the married men's apartment (none being among the single men) was taken in rotation by heads of families, their duty being to trim and supply the lamps with oil, and to see that no improper conduct was carried on in 'midships.
December 4
This morning we were all weak from want of meat - men, women and children. Firm resolution to again apply to the doctor for more sustenance. Denied the request. At a loss to know what to do. Women upbraid the men for cowardice in allowing themselves and their children to be starved for want of that food that was laid in the ship for their support. Seamen and some of the emigrants ashore daily for fresh water since coming into the Bay. Passengers sometimes left ashore after carrying water had to pay their passage back to the ship.December 9
In Irish Channel. Dreadful storm commencing at 4pm and lasting till midnight. Sad reflections - all expecting every minute to be launched into the deep. The hurricane spread the utmost terror and consternation over all - sickness ceased to exist, terror alone found a residence in the heart. But in order to give any just idea of an emigrant's situation in a hurricane, the reader must imagine to himself a space 50 yards by 12 yards, lined on both sides with berths or beds capable, or thought capable, of containing living souls, and this space having a bench running down the centre from top to bottom and under it the chests or boxes belonging to each berth; suspended all around, innumerable cooking and eating utensils, clothes, etc.
By picturing all this and say half the aforementioned number of people in bed, sick and vomiting all around, with the strong in all directions running for empty pails and buckets, you will be led to conceive how fit such a family is for a hurricane. Such was our state, however, when the storm reached us and when it did commence, as I have said, terror occupied the place of sickness, and consigned the faint and weak-hearted to their beds.
The remainder were in a sad enough plight, having to contend with water, boxes, chests, and a number of inexpressibles that, after keeping up a running fight, at last obtained a complete mastery, driving foe by foe to seek alternately refuge with the sick and wounded, the pitching and rolling of the ship along with the runaway boxes and dishes being too much for anyone, however dauntless, to contend against unless they wanted themselves to be deprived of life or limb.
Not a word or a sound was heard above the raging hurricane without; not a sound was breathed save the secret whisper or prayer of despair within. Tongues that had never uttered the name of the Almighty save in profanity now, I believe for the first time in sincerity, fervently sought His protection. Nothing seemed to be awaiting us but the jaws of the deep and everyone was with dread and consternation looking every minute for death. This fearful and precarious situation continued until midnight, when the violence of the storm began to abate. Daylight gave a full view of the war that had been going on `midships and then all who were able commenced a search for runaways. A number were recovered but I am sorry to say a number had been captured and taken possession of as lawful prey.
December 10
Weather calmer. Disturbances arising from the doctor still withholding the allowance of food assigned by the Company; he again assembles the emigrants and in harsh language tells them he has them in his power and will treat them as he thinks fit. Everyone ready for blows. Women advising the men not to stand the doctor's brutality any longer. Midnight scarcely puts an end to the excitement. Nothing again this day but the pint of gruel; sick and well get nothing else. A great number of the married men in a very excited state and all that was wanted to lead to blood and mutiny was a leader to strike the first blow. None, however, would be the first aggressor and after a wrangle till midnight they one after another betook themselves to a troubled repose.December 21 wrote McDonald.
A meeting held to see what could be done in order to prevail on the doctor to allow the children a daily allowance of porridge. A deputation was appointed, who were refused - with the exception of one of them - an audience. All assemble before the cabin, men and women, and demand an immediate answer whether or not he (the doctor) would allow the children a regular allowance of porridge. He, seeing their determined manner, grants their request, and tells them at the same time that he would grant them the full allowance of rations appointed by the Company, which is as follows: - three quarters of a pound of biscuits to each adult daily; those under 14 years of age, half this allowance; three quarts of water to each adult daily; 1 oz. butter; 12 ozs. sugar per week; 1 oz. tea per week.
December 22
Weather very stormy. Nursing mothers, who were allowed by the Company one pint of porter daily, are served with a quarter pint. Several rather severe tumblings aboard, to the effusion of blood.
December 23
Fearfully stormy weather. Man fell down centre hatch and very much bruised. Most of the immigrants sick; nothing but gruel to be got. Storm more severe at night - almost all regretting they had left their homes.
December 25 Archibald Macdonald wrote
This being Christmas Day the seamen, being mostly Englishmen (with the exception of the Captain and mate), thought of enjoying something extra but were disagreeably disappointed, as little of any importance was allowed them, which displeased them very much. Some of the emigrants having recruited a good deal from sickness, enjoyed a few hours of friendship in select parties at night with a glass of rum toddy. These meetings, however, were by no means general, as but few of them were allowed such a luxury as rum.
December 26
Very pleasant weather and embracing the opportunity, the schoolmaster commenced an evening class for the children. The following day he opened a day school, setting apart a special class for the young women and unmarried men, instructed by one of their own number. These classes continued daily throughout the voyage, excepting on such days as the state of the weather prevented them from assembling. The married men had enough to attend to in providing all things necessary for their own and their children's comfort. This day for the first time, owing to the calmness of the weather, the sails were set up.
December 28
Going at the rate of seven or eight knots, with a freshening wind. In the evening a singing club or school was formed, when several excellent songs were sung, relieved by an accordion, whose soft and melodious tones tended very much to enliven drooping spirits of those around us.
January 7 recorded Archibald McDonald
Today a newspaper was started, recording the events of our passage and containing besides much of the useful and humorous.
Vermin have made their appearance in immense numbers and all alike, high and low, rich and poor, are suffering from the dreadful infliction. Washing and cleansing cannot altogether put them away and I would strongly advise emigrants to take with them a medicine that would extirpate the pests.
I may likewise mention what clothing is best suited to the emigrants. The lightest clothing will be found to be the best - say two white jackets, two pairs white trousers - vests I consider unnecessary - and a pair of carpet shoes to protect the feet from the sun and other things that will not fail more or less to injure them. The powerful rays of the sun completely destroy leather shoes and in a short time render them disagreeable for wear.
I would also advise them to provide themselves with a sufficient quantity of marine soap for the voyage, and a rope to hang their wet clothes on to dry. We were only served with one pound of soap for the whole voyage - I mean for each family - which was far from being sufficient to keep clothes anything like clean.
January 8
One of the steerage passengers was seized with cramp in the stomach which nearly proved fatal, but after bleeding and bathing, the cramp was removed and he gradually got better. A dietary rarity was given today, being no less than potato soup, but after it was made ready it was found to be very unpalatable, tasting nothing better than water poured off potatoes. This caused the cook and his assistant to look rather sheepish for some time afterwards, owing to the cutting reproofs of the passengers, who failed not to retaliate all kinds of sarcastic remarks on the poor cooks for the loss of their expected luxury. But to make amends for the lack of thickening on this day, they gave it sufficiently lumpy for the next, which was devoured with an avidity almost beyond description.January 7 wrote Burns.
A great run - within a few miles of the Tropics and about 390 miles of the Cape de Verde Islands. Saw yesterday and today the well-known bird the Stormy Petrel, an interesting wanderer, with no home seemingly but the vastness bosom of the mighty deep. The elegant little nautilus appeared in numbers on New Year's Day, but I have looked in vain for them since.January 8
A beautiful run of 215 miles; the last three days have carried us over 600 miles. Weather very fine but very cool for the tropics owing to the very fresh breeze from east. No inconvenience but from the rolling of the ship preventing me from sleeping sound at night. Mr Adams taken suddenly ill to-day a little before one o'clock p.m. Saw the new moon last night a little after sunset being about 30 hours old. A ship a few miles astern of us - though we are moving so fast this ship seems to be nearing us.
January 9
About noon saw San Antonia, the largest of the Cape de Verde Islands, very faintly, being 45 miles to the westward. Morning worship as usual, public worship at 12.30 on deck - afraid I was not heard by numbers; preached again at 7pm, at the close referred to the disposition manifested by some of the emigrants, 1st to absent themselves from worship, 2nd to indulge in profane language and 3rd, and more particularly, on the mean vice of stealing which has manifested itself on board.
January 10
Weather hazy but dry and warm but not so warm as I had anticipated. Three or four vessels in sight; met a French vessel homeward bound. The Philip Laing saluted her by displaying her ensign, but no reply was made to it by the discourteous Frenchman.January 15.
Between 8 and 9 this morning it began to rain and presently it rained in torrents, a great deal of rain water collected by the passengers.
Two sharks appeared at the stern of the ship. A hook and line baited with a piece of pork was put down to them, when after a little the smaller of the two, about two feet in length, was caught and hauled on deck. Immediately beneath the body of the larger one as it swam about appeared a smaller fish, about 14 or 15 inches long, that always kept its place as if it were attached to the shark's body - occasionally, however, it removed some distance from it and after a little returned to its usual position beneath the belly of the larger shark. They call it a Pilot fish.
January 16. Immediately after evening service called down to prayers at the bed-side of John Brown's child. It died the same evening, a few minutes afterwards. Heat and moisture on board produce a very close heavy air between decks - no progress almost.
January 17
Beautiful morning, sun very powerful, wind fallen away, speed 4 and a-half to 5 knots. Heat accordingly much greater. Symptoms of bad feeling on the part of some of the sailors against certain of the passengers.
January 18
Delicious climate on deck after sun-set; we linger on deck till bed-time 10 p.m. enjoying the balmy air, the fine sky, a lovely moon. Turnips and carrots for the cow and bull now quite done.
January 19
Brown's child buried, put into a tin vessel and slipped over the ship's side. Another child (Maclean's) died about 4 p.m. of bowel complaint and buried, after prayer on deck, over the ship's side. Strong apprehension on board, steaming, moist, hot pestilential weather. Went down and prayed at the two parts of the ship where the bereaved parents are instead of the usual worship, as assembling them together increased the suffocating heat and aggravated the close, heavy smell below.February 1 wrote Burns.
The wife of Jas. Brown gave birth to a fine boy - both doing well. The sun now nearly vertical. Thermometer 84deg in the shade.
February 2
This day married Wm Jaffray and Margaret Hunter, both belonging to the parish of Mid Calder, county of Edinburgh, the proclamation of Banns having been duly made in the Parish Church there. In between the resolution to marry and go to Otago and the day fixed for the sailing of the ship, they had previously made a declaration before witnesses in Edinburgh that they were married persons. This they had done in the apprehension that the extract of the proclamation of Banns could reach them at Greenock only after the ship had sailed.
February 5
We had great deal of fine singing on deck last night amongst the steerage passengers for more than an hour before bed time at 10p.m. John Brown, one of the steerage passengers, lodged with me 78 sovereigns to take charge of for him till we reach Otago, making the sum total lodged in my hands by steerage passengers 366 and a half sovereigns.
February 6
In a brawl this morning Peter Crawford struck James Tweedale with a knife with such force in the abdomen that the knife coming against the headband of his breeches was bent double. He was confined in the fore hospital from 8 o'clock till next morning when the case was to be investigated.
March 2
James Brown's child, Philip Elles Brown, died last night and was buried almost immediately, putridity coming on.February 21 wrote Burns.
Uncommonly lovely and delicious weather, sky pure, almost cloudless, sea unruffled and glassy smooth like a mirror, air delightfully tempered neither hot nor cold, almost a calm. The Tenobia about a mile ahead of us, the Guardian as far astern of us.
The cow is now reduced to hardship. The rain water caught at the line is now exhausted - and there being not a drop to mix with the bran and bean meal she is deprived altogether of that the best portion of her food. She accordingly has fallen off greatly both in her body and in her milk these some days past. The Captain allows an additional gallon to be drawn for her per day for the purpose of being mixed up a little of bean meal. She yesterday had given to her a bottle of ale, ginger and sugar, and she appears a little enlivened by it.
February 24
Best day's work since we came on board having sailed 216 miles. Temperature greatly reduced, so cold do I feel it that I have put off my light jacket and thin stockings and betaken myself to boots, worsted stockings, black waist coat and brown Cadrington. The thermometer stood this morning at 65 degrees before breakfast. This with the raw damp air makes the feeling a very changed one from what it was lately with the thermometer at 78 degrees and 80 degrees with a clear cloudless sunny sky, warm dry light winds.
February 27
Wind west and right aft, ship rolling disagreeably particularly felt at night whilst in bed and at table. Worship both morning and noon on deck; fine, dry, steady breeze, with bright sunshine. In the afternoon a whole flock of snow birds, said to be a sign of the neighbourhood of ice, also of a coming gale. Several albatrosses, Cape hens and stormy petrels seen. Snow bird is white on the belly and under the wings, and in their motions - these white parts being occasionally the only part of the bird that is turned towards the observer: the bird especially when a little way off appears to be snow white.
The cycle of birth, marriage and death continued on the crowded ship.
March 2 wrote Burns
James Brown's child, Philip Elles Brown, died last night and was buried almost immediately, putridity coming on.
March 3
Mr D. found lying on the deck at the cabin door, unable to speak. Cabin passengers all raised. He says now that he was seized with cramp in the stomach to which he is liable; is better.
March 4
Gone 204 miles a tumultuous sea, no sleep all night, ship rolling terribly, strong breeze, heavy sea.
March 5
Heavy sea - excessive rolling of the ship day and night - barometer fell during the night - in consequence fearing a gale which, however, did not come, shortened sail; still by the log we made 174 miles and by observation still more. The excessive rolling of the ship was so disagreeable during the morning service that I intimated there would be no sermon at 12.30. This is the first day we have had no sermon for many weeks.
March 8
Yesterday morning the Captain counted up the number of miles we have sailed from Milford Haven when it amounted to 8833 miles - distance still to be run to Otago amounts to 5800 - making 14,633 miles in all from Milford to Otago - and from Greenock to Otago, say 15,000 miles.
March 10
Dugald Niven had a son born to him by his wife at one o'clock this morning - mother and child doing well.
March 11
No observation - heavy rain - wind west quite aft - rolling of the ship great. William Winton catched a porter cask (50 gallons) full of rain water for cow. Deadlights down in our cabin through the night. Cow got water ad libitum to drink, when she drunk five gallons at once.
March 12
Blowing hard from the west; very heavy sea - great motion in the ship. Proclamation of marriage made at 12.30 between Gavin McIntyre Park and Grace Jane Stobie, the former a native of the parish of Rutherglen, the latter of the parish of Ratho in Scotland, and both at this present time steerage passengers on board the barque Philip Laing - this for the first, second and third time.March 13 wrote Burns.
Alexander Livingston's child died about 12.30pm, it has suffered long, cutting teeth. A vessel in sight right ahead at 6 p.m. Married Gavin Park to Jane Stobie.
March 14
Beautiful morning - wind north - mild, therm. 62*. Heard with deep regret the riot amongst the wedding party last night.
March 17
Arthur (Burns) yesterday caught an albatross with a hook and line baited with a piece of pork - it measured 4 feet from the point of the bill to the end of the tail - 10 feet from the tip of one outstretched wing to the tip of the other and weighted 20 lbs. Mr Williamson is to stuff it.
March 18
One of the seamen (Sherry) being found lying drunk yesterday morning an investigation was held by the Captain and the Doctor and myself as to the way he had got spirits.
March 21
No observation - light winds from west and north-west. Engaged all forenoon from 11 till 3 with the Captain and the Doctor investigating charges prevailing among the passengers affecting William Stevenson and George Haddock, 3rd mate, of plundering the ship's stores when below in the hold, serving them out - particularly spirits. The charges dwindled away, the worst thing being the piercing at different times of 2 casks of porter as they were bringing them up from the hold and helping themselves and those assisting them to some porter each. It has turned out that the seaman Sherry had stolen down to the spirit room in the hold at the dead of night and pierced the rum cask.April 2 wrote Burns
Very heavy sea, most disagreeable rocking of the ship, warm air. The cow was taken ill yesterday and died about 7pm of inflammation in the bowels. She was quite well till yesterday, eating heartily, improved in appearance. She had a beautiful bull calf - and would have calved in a fortnight: A public loss.
Mr and Mrs Carnegie proclaimed.
April 3
Beautiful, sunny morning. Mr and Mrs Carnegie married in the cabin.
April 6
Fine morning; cloudy till after 11am, when the sun broke out. We are now 230 miles from the southernmost point of Van Dieman's Land (Tasmania) and 780 from the nearest point of New Zealand.
April 8
A very remarkable aurora appeared last night between 8 and 9pm - it covered the entire heavens with the exception of the northern and north-eastern horizon and about 30 or 40 degrees upward from that part of the horizon. In the south and southwest, it had the usual pale yellow coloured appearance that we are familiar with in the Northern Hemisphere. But in the west, in a space covering the constellation Orion and for a considerable space around it, it was of a strong, deep blood-red colour.
But by far the most remarkable and most beautiful feature was due north about 20 degrees from the zenith - the very quarter from which the wind at the time was blowing. Here the rays were concentrated with great accuracy round a centre which, as I have said, was about 20 degrees, from very much in the same way as I have often observed the clouds form themselves into the figure described as Noah's Ark in Scotland. Only the rays in this instance were of the most brilliant and striking colours, deep red or rather bright crimson interspersed with pale yellow - and dark cloudy masses.
The centre presented the appearance frequently of a mouth (such as that of a skate or turbot) and when I first saw it the mouth was working with a perpetual changing motion whilst the rays remained stationary. Bye and bye the mouth-like appearance disappeared and the motion commenced in the rays - till the usual flashing waves of pale yellow danced from side to side with great vivacity.
Shortly after, the red-coloured aurora departed - but the yellow continued till past 11pm, with great brightness with the usual dancing motion. But the crown of the sky about 9pm presented an uncommonly striking and lovely appearance, suggesting the image of a jellyfish when cast on shore with its rays of different hues. But this radiating variegated cap crowned the whole heavens from the zenith more than halfway down to the horizon. The goat produced a male kid this morning.
April 9 wrote Burns
Beautiful day. All exhilarated by the delightful weather of these three days past and with the near prospect of reaching Otago. Deo Laus.
April 10
Distance from Otago as the crow flies, 340 miles. Beautiful day. Wind north-north-west but varying from that west and north. The first symptom of preparing for land was seen, viz. putting the anchors over the ships side. John Brown applied to me this evening through Arthur for one of the 78 sovereigns which he lodged with me on the 5th of February last.
April 12
Last night before tea Arthur caught two of the pretty pigeons that have been following the ship for some days - white breast and belly black bill head and neck, their wings black with beautiful large white spots, short fan tail, the same black and white spots.
April 13
Thomas Cuddies' wife was delivered of a boy about midnight. Both doing well. All in hopes of seeing land.
April 14
Saw land last night a little before sunset, a sunset of most remarkable beauty, being the north-east point of Stewart Island. This morning the wind light and from north-north-west, we were off the mouth of the Clutha.
Saturday, April 15
This morning made Taiaroa Head. The pilot, Richard Driver, showing a recommendatory letter from Mr Kettle, came on board about 9am and took the ship in charge. Deo Laus.______________________
Otago Witness Wednesday 12 December 1900 page 37
'Passages in a Wandering Life' by Thomas Arnold, son of Dr Arnold, of Rugby, and brother of Matthew Arnold. Mr Arnold was a passenger by the John Wickliffe which left in November 1847, and Mr Arnold being then 24 years old. Mr Arnold had speculated with the New Zealand Company to the extent of two sections of 100 acres each in the Macara Valley - a peaceful forest glade some eight or town miles out of Wellington.
His allusion to Captain Cargill, the leader of the pilgrims:-
The old Captain himself, was, I should have thought, a case to which the rule of superannuation was justly applicable; yet I can well believe that, with the help of his capable son (this was John Cargill, who has long wandered New Zealand; Mr E.B. Cargill was not on board), he might succeed for a time in getting through the work that fell upon him fairly well. His glass of toddy sometimes elevated him considerably, and on such occasions he would walk about the cuddy, trolling out, with flushed features, the burden of some old Scottish song. At other times he would hold forth interminably on the distinction between Church and State - a distinction which, he used to say, an Englishman could never comprehend.
John Cargill, who was a "manly, quick-witted, good natured fellow."
Rev. John Nicholson and his wife - "If they live, may God bless them wherever they are."
Mr Cutten - "An excellent young Londoner named Cutten, who meant to go into business as an auctioneer in Otago"
When the good ship reached Otago Harbour all the baggage and goods of the passengers had to be conveyed by boat seven miles to where what is now the City of Dunedin had been laid off. While in Dunedin the Philip Laing arrived. Among the passengers was the then Rev. Mr Burns, 'a nephew of the poet, and already a grey-haired man. A pair of large dark eyes, without fire, gave him a certain resemblance to his great kinsman, but his mild bearing showed that he had never been
Mislead by Fancy's gilded ray,
By Passion driven.
Mr Arnold went on the John Wickliffe to Wellington, where he became acquainted with Governor Grey, Alfred Domett, Frederick Weld and others. He describes Mr Francis Dillon Bell, as a man of charming and delightful manners. Mr Arnold then had the pluck to walk from Wellington to Otaki for a horse which had been offered him. The country had just been cleared of Maoris, but only the road was to follow the beach for the most part. On his return to Wellington Mr Arnold sought out a solitary blacksmith's forge at "the bottom of the Horokiwi valley." "While I was waiting outside the forge an officer came up and entered into conversation. After a while he introduced himself as Captain Russell, in command of the detachment of the 58th Regiment at Pawhatanui, and invited me to dine and sleep at the Pa."
This young officer must have been the father of the present leader of the Opposition, who himself afterwards became captain in actual service in New Zealand.___________________
If you have a voyage account which is typewritten is more than likely been written after 1873.
Wanganui Herald, 28 January 1899, Page 4
JOYS OF THE WAVES.
The steamer rolled and pitched in the waves. 'Deah boy,' groaned Edwin at the
end of his first hour on shipboard, ' promise me you will send my remains home
to my people. A second hour passed. 'Deah boy,' feebly moaned Edwin, 'you
needn't send my remains home. There won't be any.'