History
& Folklore
Folk
Stories
Ole Bull's Castle
From Pennsylvania Mountain Stories by Henry W.
Shoemaker, Bradford Record Publishing Co., Bradford PA 1908
I left the railroad at the lively little city of Cross Kettle Creek
toward the former home of the world-famous violinist, Ole Bull. Here
and there neatly fenced farms were sprinkled among the rugged peaks,
but as the valley became narrower, and the mountains higher, the scene
became one of desolation rather than cultivation.
Very
little of the hemlock forests remained, the mills and railroads of Cross
Forks having done their share toward desolating the valley. At last,
as I came around a bend in the stream, and likewise in the road, I saw
before me, on the summit of one of the highest peaks, the jagged ruins
of what appear to be a mediaeval castle. The bright August sun glistened
on the gray stone walls and parapets, and above all, under the canopy
of the cloudless sky soared an eagle in his solemn grandeur. Never,
I thought, had the harmonies of nature united themselves better than
on the site of Ole Bull's castle. But there was one element which by
some might be thought discordant; on the steep sides of the mountains
on which the castle stands worked half a hundred woodsmen, their blue
and red shirts in bold relief to the dark green of the hemlock forest
they were destroying. The click, click of the axes, the wheezing of
the crosscut saws, and the rattle of the cant hooks producing a strange
contrast to the otherwise complete stillness of the scene. Returning
to the mediaeval simile, one could almost imagine these gaily bedecked
woodsmen as the home guard of the lord of the manor, throwing up fortifications
on the mountain side to repulse the assault of some hostile force.
The
part of the mountain which they had already denuded stood thick with
hemlock stumps, peeled clean of their bark, and shining pink-white in
the sunlight like rows upon rows of tombstones in the graveyard of the
ages. And the freshly peeled glistening logs, piled one on another,
in seemingly regular order, reminded one of the coat of mail on the
capacious breast of some might warrior of the Middle Ages!
I
climbed the steep mountain, pausing every few minutes to enjoy the fresh
panorama which opened before me, and when I reached the castle grounds,
the view stretched in boundless immensity in every direction; range
after range of dark green, light green, blue and brown mountains could
be seen to the north, the south, the east and the west. Thin white columns
of smoke which rose from distant ravines, betokened the presence of
steam saw mills.
I
could not but admire the taste of Ole Bull in selecting this sublime
spot for a mountain home, far from the turmoils of the valley, like
the philosopher in Sartor Resartus.
Of
the castle itself but three walls remain, the tallest being nearest
the precipitous cliff, and from whose windows the occupants could have
looked down a sheer descent of five hundred feet to where Kettle Creek
winds about like a thre[a]d of silver fresh from the smelter. Across
the ravine is another mountain, as steep, but not as high as the one
on which the castle is located, which rises majestically up with its
uneven cliffs and graveyard of hemlock stumps. The ravine is strangely
reminiscent of the pictures of the Colorado Canyon we have seen in our
geographies, and later on railroad posters, but from what I know of
the west, the ravine of Kettle Creek, at least in Ole Bull's time, was
far more beautiful, for what it lacked in depth, was more than recompensated
by the dense foliage which grew in a tangle on the rugged sides, a glorious
gift of nature which no western landscape can boast.