BUKOVINIAN FORMAL DRESS

It should be noted that there are a number of variations in clothing found amongst the Ukrainian people, each with it's own regional variations, however there are a number of commonalities. The material was generally the same- either flax, hemp or linen and the standard base colour was white. The choice of material and the level of intricacy was dependant on the use of the clothing. Everyday clothing was quite plain and extremely durable to suit the nature of daily life. Most photographs found are of people dressed in their best wear, as cameras were not an every day item and posing for a photograph meant dressing up in all of your finery.

Family Photo - Courtesy Annamari Miles

Jacob Menzak

In each of the photos above and below the men are dressed in their best trousers and shirts, a "keptar" ( sleeveless vest usually made of sheepskin and ornately embroidered ) an embroidered waist sash and, although not visible, "choboty" (boots). This was their standard formal wear- not to be confused with festive wear which will be discussed later.

Anton Russ

Maria Russ

The level of intricacy in embroidering and colour distinguished womens clothing from mens. The womens skirts ( "horbotka" ) were made of woven wool and were a wrap around style. "Horbotkas" were solid black on the back with the front woven in threads. The hem and waist were decoratively trimmed and the skirt was worn with one bottom corner hitched into the sash ( "obgortka" ) or both ends were turned up and tucked into it - particularly when working or on festive occasions, but never in church. Sashes were woven of wool on small looms, usually patterned or striped and designed to go around the waist either two or four times. No apron was worn over the horbotka but in later times silk kerchiefs were folded on a diagonal and worn as aprons. In some regions of the Ukraine the skirt was known as a "kabat" or "fartuch" and the decorative apron was referred to as a "fartushok" or "zapaska". The shirt/ blouse, or "sorochka", was collarless and cuffless with the edges finished with stitching. It was embroidered on both sides of the front as well as shoulder panels and sleeves. In some regions the shirt had a gather and cuff at the sleeves and would open from the back instead of the front. Vests were made of sheepskin, with wool on the inside and were called a "kozhushanka" ("kozhu" for short) or "keptar". Edges were usually trimmed in persian lamb and coloured leather appliqués were used to adorn it. Boots ("choboty") were soft leather .

The most distinguishing feature in the photo above is the headwear. Reserved for married women it was called a "zaviy" " namitka" or "peremitka" which was a 12 - 15 foot long medium width length of decorated cloth which could be tied around the head in different fashion, usually wrapping under the chin to keep it snug and in place. Married women, as always the custom, kept their hair covered either by a "namitka" or a tall pillbox hat with the hair hidden completely beneath. This was held in place by a kerchief or, for older women a babushka. The babushka was either knotted at the back or folded up with the remaining cloth draped across the shoulders. In each case these were highly decorated with embroidery, usually unique to either the craft maker or to the region in which they lived. The most festive kerchief was of silk and tied around the head as a turban. Necklaces , bracelets and earings ( usually made of coral, gold or silver coins and crosses ) were usually worn as accessories.

Maria Russ

Rose (nee Menzak) Skrepnek

Young unmarried women parted their hair in the middle and wore one or two braids. It was common for some to first braid their hair into two separate braids, with ribbon braided into each one, and then to finally braid the two into one larger braid, sometimes wrapped around the head or held in place by a narrow band of coloured cloth or ribbon. For dress wear women wore coloured boots ( half way up the calf as opposed to men's higher boots)- usually red or yellow- with decorated heels.

Mary Menzak in Dance Costume

The photo below provides two good examples of Bukovinian dress - mens festive wear and wedding attire for men and women.

Harry & Lena Nahamko

Mens summer festive wear included straw hats adorned with woven cord or black felt hats adorned with a ribbon band. Younger men decorated theirs with rooster feathers, and in some areas, with flowers. In winter they wore a tall fur hat (kuchma) of black persian lamb. Shirts were an embroidered knee length tunic style, made of linen or hemp with a standing collar and no cuffs, and tied at the back with a cord. All edges were stitched . Overwear generally consisted of a "keptar" or a cape. Pants were usually made of white linen with narrow legs tied in place at the bottom by drawstrings. Waist sashes were about four inches wide, woven from woolen yarn, decorated usually with black and red stripes and long enough to go around the waist about four times. Boots were high, but usually folded down at the top.

The bride too would wear her best formal wear, with head usually adorned by a floral crown. After the elaborate wedding ceremony her hair would no longer be worn loosely. Usually at the conclusion of the ceremony a "namitka" was placed on her head. From that point onwards it was considered a great shame to a woman to remove head covering in public and an insult to have it removed by others.

Bride with Brides Maids-Helen Menzak (center) Wasylena Menzak (left) Helen Odynak(right)

Annie & Brother Fred Russ