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The Ireland List
Irish County Colours - Dublin

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County Dublin

Dublin Bay, with its great sweep of coast from the rocky brow of Howth inthe north to the headland of Dalkey in the south, is a fitting introduction to one of Europe's finest capitals. The city is spread over the broad valley of the River Liffey, with the Wicklow Hills sheltering it on the south. In addition to its splendid public buildings, Dublin is particularly rich in domestic architecture of the 128th century. Fine Georgian mansions, many of them with historical association, lend sober beauty to the city's wide streets and spacious squares.

There is a wealth of interest for the visitor to Dublin in its architecture, its fashionable shopping centres, its wide range of entertainment and important events. The beautiful surroundings of the city are very easy to get to; a short journey brings one to a pleasant beach or to the Dublin Mountains

The County of Dublin now barely contains the growing Capital City. A city with a wealth of attractions. Famous for writers, poets and musicians, Dublin is also home for The Book of Kells, the beautifully decorated early christian manuscript and "Guinness" the world famous black beer which is made at St. James Gate Brewery in the heart of the city and the biggest brewery site in Europe. The Hop Store now houses the World of Guinness exhibition.

Dublin City:
Dublin was founded by the Vikings over a thousand years ago, when their longships sailed up the River Liffey. They called their settlement Dyflin, (their pronunciation of 'Dubh Linn', the old Gaelic name for an earlier settlement, as the area we now call Dublin was, from the time of St.Patrick, dotted with little Christian Curches.)

In the 12th century, the King of Englands Anglo-Norman knights wrested Dublin from it's Viking Rulers. They laid the foundations for a thriving medieval city, a city with thick walls, many towers and gates, part of which can still be seen. These rulers built two great cathedrals, Christchurch and St.Patricks, one of whose deans was the famous Jonathon Swift, author of 'Gulliver's Travels'. Dublin Castle, also dating from this time has been rebuilt as a Georgian Palace. These buildings still play their part in the life of the city. The Castle is an elegant venue for many international meetings.

Over the following centuries, Dublin evolved into an important city welcoming Dutch, Hugenot, English and Jewish immigrants, all of whom contributed greatly to it's growth.

Towards the end of the 17th century, thanks to the vision of a viceroy, the Duke of Ormond, a new and beautiful city started to rise near the sea and away from the old town. Vast areas of land were reclaimed from the Liffey.

This time saw the building of the Royal Hospital, the enclosing of the Phoenix Park (1760 acres, the largest urban park in Europe), the wide streets, impressive public buildings such as the present Bank of Ireland (originally the Parliment building), the Customs House, the Four Courts, City Hall, Leinster House (built as a private residence, now seat of our parliment, An Dail) and Trinity College founded in 1592 - a glorious new city indeed!

After the Act of Union 1801, when Ireland's parliment was transferred to Westminster, London, the character of the city changed. Ireland was going through many upheavals like the Great Famine 1845-1849 and Dublin had its share of these too, but beautiful buildings continued to rise, including the National Museum, National Art Gallery, Natural History Museum, the National Library and the General Post Office in O'Connell Street, which was to be the headquarters of the 1916 rising and where the Proclamation of Independence (of the Republic) can be read.

The Easter Rising led to six years of struggle for independence. Ireland became an independent state in in 1922 and a Republic in 1947.

Today Dublin is a vibrant modern city, city of birth to many world-famous writers - Jonathon Swift, James Joyce, W B Yeats, Oscar Wilde, George Bernard Shaw, Sean O'Casey, Samuel Beckett, Bram Stoker. Today it is home to great writers and poets including Seamus Heaney, winner of the Nobel Literature Prize.

The Temple Bar area, where so many artists, designers, and film-makers gather is alive with pubs, coffee houses, restaurants, clubs, music, chat and laughter.

St Patrick's Cathedral:
St Patrick's Cathedral is traditionally the site of a holy well used by St Patrick for baptisms and a church was established here as early as the late fifth century - a stone marking the site of the well was found in 1901 after the demolition of buildings nearby to form the park beside the cathedral.

The present cathedral was founded in 1192 by Archbishop John Comyn. As Archbishop he resided in the priory of Christ Church Cathedral - unwilling to submit to the jurisdiction of the City Provosts, he started a cathedral and palace outside the city walls.

This palace known as St Sepulchre's remained the seat of the Archbishops of Dublin until 1806. It is now in use as a police station. It is probable that Comyn intended to reduce the status of Christ Church Cathedral and its refusal to accept the removal of its privilege produced the anomaly of Dublin having two cathedrals for the one diocese. In 1872 as a result of the disestablishment of the church, St Patrick's became a national cathedral for the Church of Ireland and is used by the state for ecumenical services.

After rebuilding from 1225 onwards, the cathedral was rededicated in 1254. In 1320 a University was founded at St Patrick's with the approval of Pope Clement V and it continued until the end of the 15th century when lack of funds caused its closure. In 1547 Archbishop Browne tried to revive it. In 1584 Queen Elizabeth I issued an edict 'to consider how a college might be erected' - St Patrick's was considered unsuitable and All Hallow's priory was chosen for the site of Trinity College. A fire in 1362 destroyed the tower and part of the west nave. Like Christ Church the cathedral was much neglected over the years and by 1860 was in a poor condition. Again like Christ Church, St Patrick's acquired a wealthy benefactor, Sir Benjamin Guinness who funded the restoration of the building between 1860 and 1860 at a cost of around £160,000.

St Patrick's is one of the largest cathedrals in Ireland, where cathedrals tend to be smaller than those on the continent. It is 91 metres long externally and the nave is 17 metres high. Built in an early english gothic style the cathedral has heavy buttressing and stout walls.

Internally it is decorated with memorials and monuments to important families and individuals connected to the cathedral. Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver's Travels was Dean of the cathedral for many years.

Dublin Castle
Dublin Castle was founded in 1204 by order of King John who wanted a fortress constructed for the administration of the city. The castle was placed on high ground to the east of the city. It was originally protected by the Poddle river (now underground) which was later used to fill a moat around the walls.

In 1224 the castle was credited with a chapel. Through to the 15th century the castle was mainly administrative, concerned with setting up the machinery of government than defence. In 1534 however the castle was subjected to a siege by Thomas Fitzgerald or Silken Thomas. At the Council of State gathering at St Mary's Abbey, he renounced his allegiance to the King as he was under the impression that his father, the Earl had been executed in London. This attack from the one side only was easily defended, and when the populace heard that the King was sending troops turned on the attackers who in retaliation laid siege to the city. Later Fitzgerald was captured and he was executed with five uncles in London.

In the eighteenth century as the Georgian streetscape of Dublin was being developed, the castle was redeveloped also. A young architect believed to be Sir Edward Lovett Pearce redesigned the upper yard using the basic design inherited from Sir William Robinson. These ranges constructed in the 1680s and shown below are similar to those present today.

The Genelogical Office or Bedford Tower (pictured top and below) was constructed around the 1750s along with its two flanking gateways to the city. The clock tower is named after the Duke of Bedford, John Russell who was the Lord Lieutenant and is constructed on the site of one of the original towers. The State Apartments for the Viceroy were constructed and the upper yard laid out as it exists today. In the 19th century, an attic storey was constructed in place of the dormers. In 1779 it was stated that 'this castle is far superior to the palace of St James's as well as in the exterior, as to the size and elegance of the apartments within'.

During the 1798 rebellion, the courtyard was used for storing the dead and wounded - a fate that St James's never had to endure. In 1803 the Emmet led rising again attempted to capture the castle and failed. Throughout the nineteenth century, the status quo prevailed and the Castle remained the site of Government in Ireland. All that this entailed, the balls , receptions and dinners continued even through the Great Famine.

In 1916 the castle came under its last attack through which it also survived. It remained in the hands of the British Authorities until it was handed over to the Free State on the 16th January 1922. One of the most infamous events in the Castle's history was in 1907 when the Irish Crown Jewels were stolen from the Bedford Tower. This took place day before a visit by the King and Queen in one of the most heavily fortified areas in Britain or Ireland - the jewels of the thief had never been found.

The Castle is still used for State occasions such as Presidential inaugurations and during Ireland's presidency of the European Union.

Architectural Dublin / Trinity College / Introduction

In 1320 a University was founded at St Patrick's Cathedral with the approval of Pope Clement V and it continued until the end of the 15th century when lack of funds caused its closure. In 1547 Archbishop Browne tried to revive it unsuccessfully. In 1584 Queen Elizabeth I issued an edict 'to consider how a college might be erected' - St Patrick's was considered unsuitable and All Hallow's priory was chosen for the site of Trinity College.

Since its foundation by Queen Elizabeth I in 1592, Trinity College Dublin, the sole constituent college of the University of Dublin has expanded steadily to the point where it now has over nine thousand students. To house these students and provide the latest in facilities, the college has pursued an enlightened policy of commissioning architecture from some of the best architects in Ireland and Britain. Accordingly the college has some of the most important building in Dublin, not just from the eighteenth century but also the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.

Trinity College:
In 1320 a University was founded at St Patrick's Cathedral with the approval of Pope Clement V and it continued until the end of the 15th century when lack of funds caused its closure. In 1547 Archbishop Browne tried to revive it unsuccessfully. In 1584 Queen Elizabeth I issued an edict 'to consider how a college might be erected' - St Patrick's was considered unsuitable and All Hallow's priory was chosen for the site of Trinity College.

Since its foundation by Queen Elizabeth I in 1592, Trinity College Dublin, the sole constituent college of the University of Dublin has expanded steadily to the point where it now has over nine thousand students. To house these students and provide the latest in facilities, the college has pursued an enlightened policy of commissioning architecture from some of the best architects in Ireland and Britain. Accordingly the college has some of the most important building in Dublin, not just from the eighteenth century but also the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.

Four Courts:
One of the landmarks of Dublin with its large drum and shallow dome, and visible all along the Liffey, the Four Courts derives its names from the four divisions that traditionally were the judicial system in Ireland. These were: Chancery, King's Bench, Exchequer, and Common Pleas The interior of the Four Courts was reconstructed after the Civil War and the interior rearranged. The central rotunda above is as Gandon designed it with the four main courtrooms opening off it diagonally. This dramatic public space soars up into the drum creating a sombre and awe inspiring venue for the administration of the law.

Like all of Gandon's buildings, the Four Courts was completed with excellent sculpture by Edward Smyth. On the main pediment, Moses is flanked by Justice and Mercy with Wisdom and Authority also present. Trophies of arms are placed over the triumphal arches in the arcades but they had been emasculated with the crowns replaced by balls.

Destroyed during the Irish Civil War of 1921-22, the building has since been restored externally although it was remodelled and rearranged internally. The only external changes was the removal of one bay from each of the side blocks so that they no longer project beyond the arcades as was originally intended by Gandon and shown in the plan above.

Kilmainham Gaol
Inchicore Road, Dublin 8, Dublin.

If for no other reason Kilmainham Gaol would be remakable for being the biggest unoccupied gaol in either Britain or Ireland. As such, it gives the visitor a dramatic and realistic insight into what it was like to have been cofined in one of these forbidding bastions of punishment and correction between 1796, when it opened, and 1924, when it closed.

The reason the gaol survives today is because of the way in which it manages to symbolise Ireland's tradition of militant and constitutional nationalism from the rebellion of 1798 right up to the War of Independence and Civil War of 1919-23. Almost every upsurge and assertion of the Irish aspiration for political independence in that period - with the exception, perhaps, of Daniel O'Connell's Repeal Movement of the 1840s - found its echo in Kilmainham Gaol. Leaders of the rebellions of 1798, 1803, 1848, 1867 and 1916 were detained here. Robert Emmet, Anne Devlin, Thomas Francis Meagher, William Smith O'Brien, Charles Stewart Parnell, Eamon de Valera, Pearse, Connolly, Plunkett and other leaders of the 1916 Rising, all either served time or were executed within its walls.

Touching in so many crucial ways on the people and forces that shaped modern Ireland, Kilminham Gaol offers a panoramic insight into some of the most profound, disturbing and inspirational themes of modern Irish history.

Rates
Opening Times: January - Late April: Monday - Friday: 13.00 - 16.00 (last tour 15.00) Sunday: 13.00 - 18.00 (last tour 16.45) Late April - September: Daily: 09.30 - 18.00 (last tour 16.45) October: Sunday - Friday: 09.30 - 17.00 (last tour 15.45) November - February: Sunday - Friday: 09.30 - 17.00 (last tour 15.00) Average length of Visit: 1-3 hours.

Clontarf:
Clontarf is a suburb of Dublin City the capital city of Ireland and is situated in the north west of Europe, which is between 5 and 10 degrees west and between 51 and 55 degrees north. Clontarf is approximately four miles from Dublin City Centre. Travelling in an easterly direction by car or bus you pass through the North Strand and Fairview.

Passing Fairview Park, this 49 acres park is noted for its seasonal bedding displays but also has valuable playing fields and tree-lined walks. Originally a tidal mud flat in the early 1900s, the park was developed in the late 1920s with Bye Laws formally adopted by the Corporation in 1934.

Then under the twin railway arches to arrive in Clontarf. Looking to your right, in a southerly direction, the harbour port of Dublin and the Dublin Mountains catches your eye. Looking ahead Howth Head Sutton and Dublin Bay are a striking view.

The History of Clontarf is particularly noted for its famous battle in the year 1014, in which Brian Boru defeated the invading Norsemen. A full history of Clontarf is available in the Book The Meadow of the Bull written by historian Dennis McIntyre.

To add to the splendour of this area you will find two Links Golf Courses; Royal Dublin Golf Club and Saint Annes Golf Club. Royal Dublin Golf Club, to the informed golfer, has staged the Irish Open on many occasions, attracting some of the world's top golfers.

Dún Laoghaire:
Dún Laoghaire gets it's name from the Irish Translation, Fort (Dún) of Laoghaire. King Laoghaire was the ancient High King of Ireland before the Vikings arrived. When the English came they renamed the town Dunlary (Dunleary) to suit the English tongue. In 1821 it was renamed Kingstown by King George IV of England to honour his visit to the town that year. It remained Kingstown through Victorian times until in 1921, one year before independence, the town council voted to change the name back to the ancient Irish name Dún Laoghaire. The person most responsible for this was the Irish Martyr John Moran who was commemorated with the naming of Moran Park.

Malahide:
Malahide's roots are to be found in the far distant past. Recent excavations have revealed traces of a settlement dating back to 6000BC. The Danes made encroachments in the 8th century and established a base, and finally in the 12th century, the Normans made their appearance with the installation of Sir Richard Talbot as Lord of Malahide Estate in 1174. That dynasty lasted for 8 centuries up to the death of Milo Talbot in 1973. Malahide Castle and demesne is now under the care of Dublin County Council.

In the 18th and early 19th century Malahide was very much a thriving industrial centre. Industries included a silk factory, cotton manufacturing, salt works and cod liver oil manufacture. The coming of rail links in the 19th century began the development of Malahide as both a residential and tourist town. Valiant local effort has ensured that despite its aura of modernity, Malahide still retains its Old World charm and elegance

Killiney:
Killiney is a pretty seaside village and is home to Ayesha Castle, the interior of which was gutted by fire in 1928 and has now been magnificently restored by Sir Thomas Power of the celebrated whiskey family.

The flag of Dublin Corporation was designed in 1885: the historic arms of the city (three blazing castles) were placed in the canton of the Green Flag, the national flag of that period. A recent variant of this design places the city arms above the harp on a flag that is more elongated than usual.

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