First Settlers on Upper Paint Creek
By:Okey R. Stover
Due to the activities of the Shawnee Indians, there were no
settlers on Upper Paint Creek until about 1820. By that time there were well
established settlements in the Kanawha Valley and the Greenbrier and Monroe
areas. The Indians were pretty well shut off from this section.
One of the first to explore this region was David "Lonesome Dave"
Williams. It seemed that he came on an exploring trip about the year of 1810
or 1811. No doubt he came by way of Lewisburg and followed Reed's trail from
there to the Indian camp near the head waters of Paint Creek. He apparently
spent quite a while looking over the country and liked what he saw. He went
back to his home in Giles County, Virginia, with a strong determination to
return and establish a home in this region. When he reached civilization
again, he found that our country was again in war with England. He either
enlisted or was drafted into the Army. Here is an interesting story as told by
one of his grandsons:
While Lonesome Dave was in camp during his term in the Army, he
and a number of his fellow soldiers were engaged in one of the favorite
pastimes of Army boys, i.e., they were telling each other what their plans
were if they lived to get out of this blankety blank Army. Most soldiers have
engaged in these sessions. Lonesome Dave told the boys that when he got his
discharge from the Army, he intended to go over west of the mountains to a
place he had discovered, build a home, and spend the remainder of his life
there. He described the place--the Indian campground and the painted trees and
rocks.
Another young soldier said, "Yes, Williams, I know that territory.
It all belongs to my father. You go over there, select a spot, build your
cabin, and I will see that you get a deed for as much land as you want." That
young fellow was a son of the land speculator, Reed.
Lonesome Dave did not get back over here for quite a while after
he was discharged from the Army probably because of the Indian raids. But
finally the Indians were convinced that they could not stop the whites from
taking over their land and it became safe for settlers to come in and
establish homes. About 1820 they began to settle up the Upper Paint Creek
valley.
When Lonesome Dave came with his wife to establish their home, the
site they selected for their cabin was what we now know as the Wriston farm on
Maple Fork. I don't know just how long they lived at this location but in the
meantime, Mr. Reed sold the Maple Fork section of his grant to another
speculator, Mr. R. S. Maddy, and Dave still had no title to his place. Mr.
Reed's son wanted to make good his promise to Dave so they went to see him.
They told him that they had sold that section but there was a nice vacant
cabin down on Paint Creek. If he would move down there, they would give him a
deed to the property. Dave agreed and the move was made. This cabin was
located on the lower end of what later became the Amos Williams farm, now
owned by Woodrow Aliff.
Here is another interesting story: How come the vacant cabin was
all ready for Lonesome Dave? It seems that there was a settlement near the
mouth of Messy, the place now known as Dothan. One of the settlers at Dothan
was a young man by the name of John Goode. Mr. Goode must have been like
Daniel Boone--a man that liked a lot of elbow room. He decided to get out away
from the other settlers and establish a home where he would not be crowded. He
came up the creek looking for a site for his home and selected the spot just
below where the village of Cirtsville once stood. He made a small clearing and
used the logs to build his cabin. He and his wife moved in and thought he had
it made. There were a couple of earlier residents that resented having Mr.
Goode move into their territory and they proceeded to make their displeasure
known. Those occupants were a couple of panthers. They would come to the edge
of the clearing every evening at dusk and scream and howl. I have never heard
the cry of a panther but I have talked to a few old settlers who have and they
tell me it is a cry that will make your blood run cold. well, Mr. Goode could
find no way to get rid of the panthers. When he would go out with his gun,
they would slink back in the laurel and pine thicket that covered the hillside
and remain quiet until he went back into the house. Then they would start
their serenade again. After a few weeks of this, Mr. Goode and his wife could
take it no more. They pulled up stakes and went back down to Dothan where they
lived many years.
Lonesome Dave and his wife moved into Mr. Goode's cabin and spent
the remainder of their lives there. As Lonesome Dave was the first permanent
settler of Cirtsville, I will give as much as I know of his family history. He
was a son of Jeremiah Williams who lived in Giles County, Virginia. He was a
member of a family of 11 children. His wife was Mary McGriff. They were the
parents of six sons: Patrick, John, Henry, Jim, Allen, and Wilson.
Sunday, 26-May-2002 20:00:25 MDT