HAUNTS OF THE BUGEYE
George Barrie, Jr.
Pray, dear reader, make no
fuss,
As I'm no literary cuss.
When you find your English torn,
Heap me not with caustic scorn,
But close your eyes and gently dream
Of days you've floated with the stream;
For I've but tried to take you, here,
Back to those days you hold so dear.
ON Thursday, June 5, 1899, there was great activity
and excitement on board the antique ketch Mona and
the modern yawl Fidelio, at anchor off the club
house, for on that day was to begin our
long-looked-forward-to third run to that perfect cruising
ground, the Chesapeake.
The small boats plying back and forth from yacht to
shore were loaded gunwale-deep with sundry cases, piles
of clothes, and other odds and ends. At three o'clock we
were all ready to start, but as a black thunder squall
was rapidly coming up from the northwest we decided to
wait until it had passed over. About five o'clock the
rain stopped, and unfortunately the wind dropped, so we
had supper, and then, as the tide was running ebb, the
Mona slipped her mooring and went down the river stern
first.
On board the Fidelio, forty feet over all, were Joseph
Y. Jeanes, skipper; J.A. Inglis and Knute, son of Knute,
paid hand. On board the Mona were R. Barrie, skipper, one
paid hand, who went under the name of Gustaf, and
myself.
After drifting about a mile, stern first, we decided
to anchor, as it was not worth while blundering through
the dark without headway. The Fidelio wisely did not
start at all.
Next morning, bright and clear, we were up at
daybreak, and found a nice, fresh northwest wind blowing,
which would carry us to the canal in fine shape; so we up
anchor and started off. As soon as the halyards were
coiled down and the deck made tidy, Gustaf was sent below
to start breakfast, a custom which was adhered to very
carefully throughout the cruise. When off Chester we saw
that the Fidelio had left her mooring, and off Marcus
Hook she passed us. After breakfast we set the jib
topsail and hauled the yawl boat on deck, using the
backstay of the mainmast and the forestay of the mizzen
as slings; off New Castle Flats we had to take in the jib
topsail, as the wind had a fair sweep across the marshes,
and we got some pretty hard puffs. We arrived at Delaware
City about half-past nine, and found the Fidelio anchored
on the river. Here the skipper and I had our first
argument, he wanted to anchor off the mouth of the canal,
and I wanted to lower all the sails, except the mizzen,
and shoot in under it. After short but rapid talk he
accepted my plan, and we shot in in fine style. He says
anyone can get along with a person who has thin lips and
red hair if one lets them have their own way. After
paying dues and towage we passed through into the basin,
where we tied up to do some marketing and wait for the
Fidelio to lock in. As the tide and wind were both down
the river, and as they had anchored below the canal to
wait for us, it took them about an hour to beat up half a
mile.
About eleven o'clock we started off with a fine mule
breeze, Mona ahead and Fidelio's lines fast to our
counter. Just before reaching St. George's a large
steamer, the Baltimore boat, passed us at full speed and
caused such a suction that the Fidelio's tow line parted,
and it took us considerable time to get straightened out
again. We arrived at Chesapeake City about four o'clock,
where we got a tug to tow us down Back Creek and into the
Elk as far as Corn Landing, where we made sail and ran
into the mouth of the Bohemia River, anchoring there for
the night. Most of that night it was very uncomfortable,
as the tide was running out and the wind, still from the
northwest, blew straight in, and so we hung across stream
and wabbled in an annoying manner; the rudder groaned and
the mainsheet block banged and creaked. We did not mind
that, but what did ruffle us was that things in the
galley jumped around in a lively manner and somewhat
delayed dinner. As Gustaf did not know exactly how we
liked things cooked, I spent most of my time, when meals
were being prepared, in the galley, superintending. After
dinner we went over to the Fidelio to arrange for the
next day's sail. Although it was the middle of June, we
needed heavy coats while sitting on deck, and during the
night we had two blankets, and double at that, on the
bunks. About eight o'clock we returned on board and
turned in for the night.
Saturday we were up at four-thirty. The wind still
blew from the northwest, and "right smart," too, and when
I went on deck, dressed in pajamas, to take off the
skylight covers, I got pretty well frostbitten. The shore
about the Chesapeake may be very warm, but on the water
we never noticed the heat, and the nights were always
cool. As soon as Gustaf got his eyes open he was told to
start breakfast. Then the skipper went over to the
Fidelio, and I hovered around the galley. At exactly six
o'clock we made sail and started for Annapolis; beat out
under jib and mainsail, and when we got over to the north
side of the Elk set the mizzen and staysail and boomed
along in great shape. The north shore of the Elk is quite
high land, and on that particular morning it looked very
beautiful, as the air was very clear from the
thunderstorm of Thursday afternoon.
Ahead of us was a large bugeye and a schooner, and
when they got out from under the shelter of Turkey Point
we could see them heel over and throw out spray from
their bows at a great rate, and when we passed the point
we found it pretty fresh, as the wind had a clear sweep
of many miles across the Susquehanna Flats.
Off Howell's Point we could see the sails of the
Fidelio as she came down the Elk; they did not start
until seven o'clock, as they wanted to put a reef in the
jib and mainsail. Off Worton's Cove we set the balloon
jib, as the wind was getting light, and by the time we
reached Swan Point, on the north side of the Chester
River, it had died away almost completely, and we rolled
around for some time, making very little headway. It was
off the Chester River that a very amusing circumstance
occurred on an early yachting trip made by one William
Black, Esq., secretary to the commissioners appointed by
Governor Gooch, of Virginia, to unite with those of
Pennsylvania and Maryland, to treat with the Six Nations
of Indians at Lancaster. He and the other commissioners
were on their way from Stratford, on the Potomac, to
Philadelphia, via Chesapeake, on board the yacht
Margaret.
The following is an extract from his journal:
"Wind at SW. 15 min. past 4, had Chester
River on our Starboard and Patapsco on our Larboard
Side, at which time we were at Dinner, but properly
speaking, some of us made but one Meal a day, and that
lasting from morning to night.
The Biscake Barrell standing upon deck by the Pump,
every other minute one hand or another, would be
Diving in it, so that you might hear our Grinders,
like so many Hoggs under a Peach tree in a very high
Wind: the Wind blowing very weak, we made little or no
way, having a strong Tide of Ebb against Us. Towards
the Going down of the Sun, seeing a Boat and Canoe a
Fishing Inshoar, we hail'd them, with, have you got
any Fish, which they returned with, have you got any
Rum, we Answered, yes, will you come on Board and
Taste it, then they unty'd and made Directly for Us,
but was very much Surprised with the manner of
Reception they met with, which was as follows:
We had the Blunderbuss ready loaded, and Stil'd on
the side they were to board Us, Littlepage who was to
Act the part of a Man of Wars Lieutenant, was
Accoutred with four Loaded Pistols, and the like
number of Swords, which with his lac'd hatt and
Romantick Countenance, made an app'nce much like
another Blackbeard, several more of our Company was
Arm'd with a Drawn Sword & Cockt Pistole, several
Pistoles, three fowling Pieces Loaded, and some Drawn
Swords lying in view on a Table on the Maindeck, in
this manner was we Equip'd and Stationed ready to
receive the poor fishermen, when they came near enough
to observe our Postures &c, they immediately lay
on their Oars & paddles with no small concern to
know what we was, but on a little time the Ebb Tide
drawing them along side (which they did not observe
being so surpriz'd) Littlepage ask'd them in a Sailor
like manner, If they would come on board and Serve his
Majesty, to which they made no Reply, but kept gazing
at us like so many Thunder-struck persons.
At last with a Discharge of our Great Gun and small
Arms, Flourish'g our Swords round our heads, we
desir'd them to come on board Directly, else we would
Sink them, on hearing of which, as if Recover'd from a
Trance, they call'd out to one another, with marks of
the Greatest fear Imaginable, in their Countenances,
pull about! pull about! for Gods Sake!
With all the Eagerness possible they Sett to
pulling and paddling as if pursued by a Spanish
privateer, on which calling to hawl up the Barge, and
Man her, it being done, Littlepage and my Self, got in
with each a pair of Pistols and a Sword, and made
directly after them, on which, they did mend (if
possible) their Strokes, pulling for life directly to
the Shoar; now & then one or other of them would
look behind, & then cry out, pull away, pull away,
or we are all taken.
At last they gain'd the Shoar, and so soon their
Vessels Struck the Ground, they got their Jackets on
their Shoulders, & without the least care of them,
made Directly for the woods: to have seen Us pursuing,
hollowing, and brandishing our Swords, & them
flying with their whole might, one time looking behind
them to see how near we were, and then before them to
see how far they were from the Shoar, was a Scene
Sufficient, to Create pleasure and a Laugh in
Gentlemen less Blyth and Gayly dispos'd, than the
Honourable Commissioners or any other of their levee;
on their gaining the land, we turn'd and lay on our
Oars (it being all we wanted to Surprize them a
little), which as soon as the fear and terrible
concern they were in, allowed them time to look behind
and observe, they Rallied.
Seeing this, and being now on Terra firma, in some
measure freed from that dreadful Apprehension of
serving his Majesty, they opened on us all at once,
like so many Hounds on a warm Scent, calling us a
parcell of -- , if we would only come ashore Man for
Man, they would teach us what it was to Fire Guns at
People, and fright them in so unaccountable a manner;
after Exchanging a little Billingsgate with them, we
returned on Board, where we found the rest of our
Company very much pleased with the Adventure.
It was now quite calm, about Daylight Shutting in,
we had a small Breeze from the SSW. which in a little
time shifted to SE. the forepart of the Night appeared
Cloudy, looking very Squaly, when I betook my Self to
my Cabbin, when in a very little time I got into the
Drowsy Gods' Dominions, where let me rest, till you
turn over the leaf."
And so they yachted in colonial days !
Off the Magothy River the wind freshened from the
northeast, and we were soon around Sandy Point and
heading for the Severn, anchoring off the oyster police
boat wharf at two o'clock. The Fidelio arrived half an
hour later. While coming up the harbor we saw the yawl
Panola, belonging to Dimphel, of Panola Manor. We
had no sooner dropped our anchor than he was aboard with
a hearty welcome to the Bay. After furling sails we went
on shore with baskets; first to market for chickens and
vegetables, then to the baker's, then the telegraph
office, and from there to the post office, and back again
to the baker's and market to pick up our numerous
purchases. After getting on board Dimphel with a friend
again came alongside in his canoe. Dinner over we went to
the Fidelio and sat there until about nine o'clock, when
we returned for sleep.
Next day we did not get up until late, seven o'clock,
as we intended remaining in Annapolis during Sunday and
Monday; went in for a swim and then had breakfast. During
the night the bugeye yacht Retsilla, of Baltimore,
belonging to Mr. McAllister, came in, and about ten
o'clock we made an official visit. The Retsilla is not a
regular out-and-out bugeye, as she has an overhanging
stern. We were interested in her, as ever since the
skipper and I first went to the Chesapeake we have been
talking of having a bugeye, but it will be an out-and-out
one, with a sharp stern.
After returning from the Retsilla the Fidelio company
and we went ashore and walked about in the Academy
grounds, going on board the Gloucester, the little
converted yacht that did such fine work at Santiago. To a
yachtsman's eye she is spoiled. All the deck houses,
which were of mahogany, had been painted, the inside
fittings ripped out; and one of the men said that they
were nearly frozen last winter on account of the ceiling
being taken out and that frost would gather on the
inside. They were going to start very shortly for the
Norfolk Navy yard to have new ceiling put in. But
business is business, and I suppose the varnish and
comfort had to go. From the Academy we went to the State
House, where we rested our weary limbs. After walking
about the town for some time, admiring the fine old
houses, we went back on board.
Annapolis has some of the finest colonial houses to be
seen in this country, and many tales are read of the
splendor of the balls and routs given by their ancient
proprietors, and of the merry meetings of the Hominy Club
and the Tuesday Club, where punch flowed freely, and
often after the meetings the members no doubt went
struggling home, aided by their black servants carrying
lanthorns. The laws of the Tuesday Club provided that the
club should meet weekly at a member's house, and that
each steward should provide a gammon of bacon; later they
resolved that cheese was not a dish of "vittles." The
same club also introduced large sandboxes for the members
to spit in, as most of them smoked and chewed, and these
were carried from one steward's house to another with
great pomp. Later on they were abolished at the
suggestion of the married men, as they were afraid of
being "chided" by their bachelor companions for
"incurring the displeasure of their wives."
After supper I took the small boat and rowed past the
bridge and up pretty Spa Creek, going on board of a large
bugeye which is used for working in winter and as a yacht
in summer. When I got back I found the skipper on board
the Fidelio. We soon turned in, as we were rather tired
after our jaunt.
On Monday we got up about six o'clock, had a swim and
then breakfast. This morning the waters of the harbor
were covered with canoes, each one containing a nigger
and a barrel; these are the catchers of the famous
Chesapeake crabs. When one of them gets a barrelful, and
it does not take long, he goes on shore to the crab
house, where they are boiled and picked. Many pounds of
crab meat and deviled crabs are shipped daily.
After breakfast we all went on shore, I taking my
camera to get some views of the best of the houses. First
of all we photographed the Brice mansion. It is a fine,
big, square building, three stories high, and peaked
roof; from each end long, low outbuildings extend,
terminating in a small square building. From there we
went to the antique store, where we spent some time
looking over McCusker's stock of curious pieces of
furniture, etc. After buying a few things we went up to
the State House and climbed up many stairs to get to the
top of the dome, but when we reached there we were well
repaid for our exertion in the fine panorama stretched
out before our eyes. To the east and southeast lay the
broad Chesapeake, and we could see as far as Bloody
Point, on the Eastern Shore. To the north was the river
Severn, quietly flowing between high wooded bluffs. To
the south and west was a rich, rolling farming country,
here and there dotted with snug farmhouses and patches of
woodland, and below us was the ancient city of
Annapolis.
After coming down from the tower we prowled about the
State Library, and from there we went to the Academy in
order to see the museums, which had been closed on
Sunday. After lunch we all got into the Mona's small boat
and rowed around Horn Point to the shore east of Back
Creek, where we had a fine swim, after which we went on
shore to replenish our ever-failing stock of provisions,
as on the morrow we were to sail for South River. After
dinner paid our usual short visit to the Fidelio, and
then turned in.
Got up at four o'clock Tuesday, June 20th, and
immediately proceeded to get under way, having breakfast
as we slipped out of the Severn. There was a fine whole
sail westerly breeze blowing, so we had a beam wind to
Tolly Point; from there it was close-hauled for two miles
to the lighthouse off Thomas Point. Halfway between Tolly
Point and Thomas Point the Fidelio passed us. After
passing the light the wind gradually lightened until off
Mayo's Point it died out completely. We wanted to go up
South River as far as the almshouse, but the Fidelios
were afraid we might be delayed in getting out on account
of head winds. We then turned into Selby's Bay, where we
anchored. Rigging the sail on our small boat, we all went
ashore in it, scudding along before the now freshened
wind, water spurting up the centerboard casing, we were
going so fast. On shore we found a carpenter, and we
contracted on the spot for a cover for the case at the
enormous expense of twenty-five cents. As we wanted to
visit an old church called All Hallows, lying several
miles inland, we inquired where we could get a team to
take us there, and were directed to "Gresham," the old
Mayo place, about a mile from the landing. So we set out
along the road, and at last arrived at our destination
and made arrangements for a man and team to be at the
landing at two o'clock.
The Mayo house is built of wood, and over the door is
a large wooden spread eagle, evidently from the stern of
some ship. Among the numerous objects of interest around
the house are a couple of stone columns from the island
of Apollo and an old bronze bell from a Spanish convent,
probably captured in the Mexican War.
A fine romance could be worked up about the old
Commodore, as the negroes relate legends of how, after
returning from a voyage, he would take his ship into
Whitemarsh Creek, and then for many nights the groaning
of the ox carts would be heard bringing over loads of
silk, etc., and how the neighborhood would be filled with
men whose boots and clothing had many stains of blood
upon them.
After returning on board we ordered lunch; then sailed
over to the other side of the bay and had a fine swim.
Lunch over we went to the landing and found the wagon. We
had some difficulty in getting five into the two seats.
Finally it was arranged that I should sit on a box put
between the two seats and dispose of my lower extremities
in any vacant space I could find. When we had driven
about three miles we came to a post office. The skipper
went in to post some letters, and as he stepped in the
door the postmaster quickly snatched up an old muzzle
loading pistol. We afterward discovered that he thought
the skipper was an officer, as he had on a yachting hat
with the club device on it; but why the pistol, did not
develop.
CORTELYOU MANSION, SOUTH RIVER,
NOW USED AS COUNTY ALMS HOUSE.
TOMBSTONE USED AS DOOR STEP AND
COLUMN FROM THE ISLAND OF APOLLO.
COMMODORE MAYO HOUSE
About a mile further on we passed the home of the old
South River Club, which is one of the oldest in the
country. Finally we arrived at the church. Here we found
a very old bell, also many curious tombstones. After
making a photograph we started for the old almshouse, but
stopped on the way to make a view of another curious old
house. From the almshouse we returned to the landing, and
then on board. After supper Inglis and I went on shore
for a gallon of milk, as he and the skipper are very fond
of this beverage. Turned in at the usual hour of
nine.
Wednesday we got up at five o'clock and started for
West River before a nice northeast wind. We had
considerable difficulty in finding the buoys, as they
were washed nearly white, but with the liberal use of the
lead line we succeeded in getting in all right and
anchored off Cox's Creek in eleven feet of water. After
ham and eggs, with a small dash of coffee, we all bundled
into our boat and sailed ashore, as we wished to visit
the famous old brick house called "Tulip Hill," standing
on a hill about three-fourths of a mile from the water.
The wife of the owner very kindly showed us about the
grounds, and also the first floor of the house.
BAY FRONT OF TULIP HILL, WEST RIVER.
"Tulip Hill" is built out of black and red brick, or
English brick, as it is called. There is an oblong three
story building in the center, and with the usual wings at
each end. These wings consist of a small two-story
building, connected to the main building by a passage one
story high. The front or side facing the water is
approached by a long, gradually rising terrace. When the
house was first built there were no porches, but later on
a small one was added to the rear; the colonials were too
English in their ways to have porches. Nearly all the
rooms on the first floor are wainscoted up to the
ceiling.
The house was built by Samuel Galloway, who came to
this country some time previous to 1753, as is shown by
the following advertisement that appeared in The Maryland
Gazette:
"22 March, 1753, Just imported from London in
the Brigantine Grove, Capt. Robt. Wilson, to be sold
by the subscriber on board the said brigantine in West
River, for sterling or current money, a parcel of
healthy indented servants, among whom are tradesman
and husbandman, Samuel Galloway."
After making a couple of photographs we sailed back on
board, left the camera, and then sailed up to a place
called Galloways in search of that luxury somewhat scarce
in the Chesapeake -- ice. After many inquiries we were at
last guided to a house where we could get it. After
raking around in a deep pit filled with rotted straw we
discovered a few pieces of soft, mushy ice, which we
piled into sacks, and each member of the party proceeded
to struggle down to the boat with one. As the wind was
against us going back we had to row, for we were afraid
the mush would melt before we could beat back in such a
light air. We were no sooner on board than we fell
overboard and had a fine swim, which greatly refreshed us
after our hot row. After lunch the skipper of the Fidelio
and I rowed over to a boat builder's on the south shore,
where we saw a large skipjack, or deadrise bateau, in
course of construction. The builder's name was
Leatherberry, and when he is not building boats he
carries watermelons to Baltimore and Philadelphia in his
bugeye.
On returning on board it was decided that we should
drop down to the mouth of the Rhode River so as to be
able to get out easily in the morning. The wind was very
light and ahead, so we did not get there until after four
o'clock. The Fidelios went on shore for a swim, but, as
they were to dine with us that night, we had to stay and
shell peas. After a dinner of fried chicken, vegetables,
raspberries, and some ice-cold Chablis, we sat on deck
for awhile and then turned in. About twelve o'clock we
were awakened by a terrible racket; water in the tanks
sloshed around, pots and pans rattled, blocks creaked,
and things in general made as much noise as possible. On
going on deck we found it blowing pretty hard from the
northeast, and as it had a full sweep of ten miles across
the Bay it kicked up considerable "bobble." The sky was
perfectly clear, and the moon was shining so bright that
it was about as light as day. We could see that the
Fidelio was dragging as though she did not have out an
anchor, and, hanging the lead over the side, we found we
also were dragging, but very slowly, so we got up the
anchor and ran up to Cedar Point under the staysail,
passing the Fidelio on the way; by that time her anchors
were holding. Once more we turned in and slept like
logs.
Started for Cambridge Thursday just as the sun was
rising. It was still blowing pretty hard from the
northeast, so we set only the mainsail and jib. Off
Curtis Point we found that we could not pass to windward
of buoy No.11, so we decided to risk going south of it.
We got across all right, never having less than two
fathoms, but the Fidelio, which was some distance behind
us, and north of the buoy, hit twice very hard. After
getting past the buoy we set the mizzen and staysail; off
Poplar Island we had breakfast and soon after set the
balloon jib; off Low's Point the wind got very light, and
by the time we got to Cook's Creek we barely had
steerageway. We had considerable difficulty in finding
buoy No.1 off Low's Point; once before we had a hard time
to find the same buoy, when it was blowing a small gale
from the northeast and we expected to go aground every
minute.
Off Tred Avon River the Fidelio made signals that she
wanted to speak to us, so we hung in the wind until she
came up. There was some talk about going into Oxford, but
it was finally decided that we should keep on to
Cambridge. After passing Castle Haven we had lunch, and
anchored off the steamboat wharf at Cambridge at two
o'clock. While the skipper had a nap I fixed some string
beans. In the midst of the operation a large canoe
containing a couple of fellows came alongside and
gossiped awhile; finally, as their boat gave a few hard
thumps on our topsides, the skipper was awakened, and
about four o'clock we all went ashore to obtain a fresh
stock of provisions. After visiting several different
stores, the telegraph and post offices, we returned on
board, had supper and then turned in.
Friday we did not get up until about eight o'clock,
and after having a swim and breakfast went on shore.
While the rest went up into the town for provisions I
rowed up the harbor to make some photographs. The place
was filled up with bugeyes and canoes, some being painted
and others hauled out and being caulked. At this time of
the year the bay boats are not very busy, it being just
between the oyster and watermelon seasons.
Here it was that we first saw a curious type of
Chesapeake Bay canoe rig. In place of a jib they have a
small mast, about half the size of the foremast, stepped
in the stem, raking forward over the bows, the masthead
being considerably outside of the boat. The small
triangular sail, called a "jigger," which sets on this
mast, is sheeted to the foremast.
At noon hoisted the homeward bound pennant, as this
was as far down the Bay as we intended to go. After lunch
we set the mizzen, jib, and staysail, kept the awning up
between the masts and started off for Oxford before a
light southwest wind. While passing Hambrook Bar the
tide, which was flood, set us in toward the shore, and we
touched bottom very lightly, but did not stick. Off
Island Creek passed a small naphtha launch hailing from a
port on the Miles River. Reached Oxford about four
o'clock and anchored just above the steamboat wharf; went
on shore to the telegraph and post offices, came back,
had dinner, and went on shore to the post office again.
When we got back we found Dimphel, Esq., on the Fidelio,
and after talking with him for half the night we turned
in.
On Saturday got up about seven o'clock, had breakfast,
and then Skipper Jeanes and I went on shore for
provisions. On returning found a Mr. Dunop, of Baltimore,
aboard. After lunch the two skippers went up to Easton by
train. I took the small boat and sailed up past the town
to a nice sandy beach, where I had a swim. I then
proceeded to scrub a pair of duck trousers, using plenty
of sand and soap. Dined on board the Fidelio with Inglis.
About eight o'clock the skippers returned loaded down
with antiques, which they had either purchased or
stolen.
The skipper did not get up this Sunday morning, in
fact all day, as he had trouble in his interior
department. After getting dressed I started on shore to
forage for milk, telling the man to start breakfast. When
about fifty yards away Gustaf shouted in his
Anglo-Scandinavian, "Hoo-ee! Hoo-ee! Iss no potatis; iss
no potatis!" This was sad news, as all the provision
stores were then closed.
Milk is evidently scarce in Oxford, as I had great
trouble to get even a quart. After breakfast I sat on
deck log-writing, and the aforesaid Dunop came down to
show off his canoe. About four o'clock the Keren,
yawl, and Zeeland, knockabout, belonging to
members of the C.Y.C., came in and anchored near us. They
had hardly anchored when a thunder squall came down from
the north, and with plenty of wind and rain. After it had
partially passed, the owner of the Keren came over to
"gam." They had started a few days after we had. On
Saturday they had beat down the Bay from Annapolis to
Cook's Point against a hard southwest wind. We did not
sit up long after supper, as it was too wet to sit
outside, and a lamp in the cabin made it fearfully
hot.
ZEELAND.
Monday we got up about six o'clock, had a swim and
breakfast, then, as the skipper was not yet altogether
well, we went on shore to the doctor, who gave him some
medicine which he never used, and so, of course, got all
right. About nine o'clock we took the small boat and
rowed up Town Creek to the old Tilghman residence, of
which we made a photograph; then crossed to the other
side of the creek to the graveyard, where there is a
monument erected to Colonel Tench Tilghman, secretary to
General Washington.
From here the skipper of the Fidelio and I went to
look for an old house on Boone Creek, the other two
returning on board. After walking for about a mile we
came to a large square frame house. On inquiring at a
nearby farmhouse we found the name of the place was
"Bonfield," that it had been owned by the Chamberlain
family. It was built as early as 1775. We got a key and
went all through the house. From the outside it looked
like an ordinary frame building, but we found that the
walls were of brick clapboarded. In the cellar there are
small rooms which make you think you are in some German
castle, so like dungeons are they. A fine pair of
andirons made us crack one of the commandments, but we
went off without damaging any other. When we got back to
Oxford we found Bob and Inglis waiting for us at the
steamboat wharf.
After luncheon Dimphel came over in his launch and
towed one of the small boats over to Bellevue, where he
left us, we promising to go to his house later on. We
walked about half a mile to the Scott house, and were
shown through by the owner. We were told, among other
interesting things, that no two windows in the house were
the same size. After making photographs of it and of the
old Bozman house we got in the boat and started for
Dimphel's, he meeting us just at the mouth of
Plaindealing Creek and towing us up to the Hardcastle
mansion. Most of this old house has been torn down, but
we were told that the original hall of it was big enough
for a coach and four to turn in and that it had actually
once been done. There still stands near by a small brick
building which was used in early colonial days as a place
to trade with the natives.
When we were in the graveyard looking at some of the
old gravestones, one of the boys, who were showing us
about, said, "Do you see this large stone here and that
little window up there?" pointing to the house. "Well,
when the man who is buried here died, his wife sat up in
that window looking at his grave, never coming down for
seven years, and on the day she came down she got married
again." "And she must have sat on a stepladder," chimed
in another boy, "for the window is six feet from the
floor."
Coming back down the creek we passed a small building
about the size of a henhouse which we were told was the
first tobacco customhouse in Maryland. We stayed some
time at Dimphel's, looking at models of different boats
which he intended to build. Before we left, Mrs. Dimphel
served some lemonade and cake, and then they came back to
the Fidelio with us in their launch, which is a very
handy little affair, being an old whaleboat with a Pierce
engine fitted amidships. We turned in as soon as they
left us, as we wanted to start early next morning for
Eastern Bay.
Got up Tuesday about four o'clock and started off
under jib, staysail, mainsail, and mizzen before a good
northeast wind; had breakfast after passing Choptank
Light, then set balloon jib, and we boiled along until
off Sharp's Island, where the wind began to lighten, and
when we were a little above Low Point it was about a flat
calm. We generally found that there was a good northerly
breeze from before sunrise until about nine o'clock, when
it would die out, and about three o'clock in the
afternoon the breeze would come up again from a southerly
direction.
We slowly drifted up the Bay with the tide. When off
the north end of Poplar Island the wind came up from the
southwest, gradually increasing in force. Off Claiborne
we passed the Fayelle, launch, belonging to a
member of the C.Y.C., bound for Norfolk. On nearing
Tilghman's Point we took in the balloon jib and set the
staysail and working jib. By this time the Fidelio was
rounding Herring Island, at the mouth of the Wye, while
we had to beat from Tilghman's Point up to buoy No.8
before we could run for the Wye. About five o'clock we
anchored off the west side of Bruff's Island in about
four fathoms. After dinner I sailed around the north end
of the island in the small boat, while the skipper made
the usual visit to the Fidelio: there were very few
nights that we did not go over and sit in the Fidelio,
talking over what had happened during the day or planning
for the morrow.
Wednesday morning we put on neckties after breakfast,
as we intended to visit Wye House, the estate of Colonel
Edward Lloyd. It was blowing very hard from the southwest
and there was quite a little "bobble" where we were
anchored. About nine o'clock we all got into the
Fidelio's small boat and rowed around the north end of
Bruff's Island and landed on the east side of Shaw's Bay.
Going across this small bay we had a hard pull and got
pretty wet. A few minutes after landing we met Colonel
Lloyd in a buggy on his daily drive through the different
fields, and asked permission to make a few photographs of
the house, who told us to go up and present
ourselves.
WYE HOUSE, TALBOT COUNTY, MARYLAND.
THE ORANGERY, WYE HOUSE.
Wye House is built of wood and on the plan of most
Southern houses. During the War of 1812 part of it was
burned down by the British. About a hundred yards back of
the house is a fine old greenhouse, and back of that is
the family graveyard. The grounds are very beautifully
laid out and very English-looking with their boxwood
hedges, etc. After making a photograph of the front we
went around to the rear, made one of that and also of the
greenhouse. Then, after walking around for some time, we
returned to the house and sent our cards in to Mrs.
Lloyd, who kindly invited us in, and we spent a most
pleasant hour chatting about the history of the old
place. Mrs. Lloyd told us that among many things which
the British had taken away with them, were ladies'
dresses, paintings, and many other valuable things,
including, of course, silverware, and a table of silver,
part of which they afterward returned.
We returned on board by way of the small passage
between Bruff's Island and the mainland, two of us having
to get overboard and push the boat through. After lunch
we got into the small boat, rowed up to the south point
of Wye Island and walked up to a farmhouse, passing on
the way a remnant of one of Bordley's windmills, where we
hoped to get a wagon to drive us to the Paca House, at
the north end of the island. Once more we were taken for
the police (oyster police this time) by the small boys
who were playing around the house. After much persuasion
we succeeded in getting the wagon. On arriving at the
Paca House we were very much disappointed to find that
the old building had been burned down, and the present
one was only sixteen years old; but we were very kindly
treated by the owner, Mr. Raisin, and his son, who took
us across the river to another old house, Wye Heights,
now owned by a New York man. On returning on board, had
supper, made the usual visit to the Fidelio, and then
turned in.
Started for St. Michael's Thursday morning at five
o'clock, having to beat against strong south wind. It was
pretty ticklish work beating out the narrow Wye. Anchored
on the south side of St. Michael's Harbor about six
thirty. After breakfast we went on shore to the telegraph
and post offices, incidentally taking in a few
provisions. We had to hurry back on board, as a
bad-looking squall was coming down from the northeast.
The Fidelio, which had anchored outside the harbor, had
to get up anchor in the midst of it, and ran in under the
mizzen and jib. It rained in spells until about two
o'clock, when it cleared up and we went on shore; visited
some of the oyster police boats which were being repaired
at the shipyard. One of the captains showed us some of
the cannonballs, bombs, and canister which they carry. He
said that he had used the balls and canister, but never
the bombs, as he was afraid of the "durned things."
While walking around the town we saw a man building a
dugout canoe. The canoes are built out of from three to
five logs and take about eighty days to make. We were
told that some of the builders are so expert that they
can work one log in one place and another several miles
away, and so on, and when brought together these logs
will fit perfectly. After supper we were visited by Mr.
Lambkin, a local builder, who told us some very
interesting things about the canoes.
We started for Annapolis Friday at four-thirty, wind
blowing strong from the north. As the tide was running
out there was quite considerable "bobble" off Deep Water
Point, where the channel is very narrow. Before starting
we had hauled out the yawl boat, but we heeled over so
much that it was necessary to lower and tow her. Just
after passing Deep Water Point we noticed that the
Fidelio had gone aground at the mouth of the harbor, so
we turned around, but she got off before we reached her.
It was decided that we should anchor and see whether the
wind would go down, as it was too close work and risky
beating out the narrow channel.
After breakfast I went on shore for mail and to get a
few provisions. We loafed around all morning, doing
nothing except take a swim. About two o'clock the wind
began to lighten, and we soon got under way, but the wind
fell rapidly to almost a dead calm, so that we did not
get to Tilghman's Creek until after four o'clock, where
we anchored in over four fathoms. After putting up
awnings all went ashore for another swim, but as we had
to row a half mile we were not much the better for it by
the time we got back. Intending to start early next
morning it was not long after dinner that we turned
in.
At a quarter to four o'clock on Saturday, after much
labor at the windlass, we got away under working sails.
There was a light north wind blowing, so after rounding
Tilghman's Point we set balloon jib, but did not get even
as far as Bloody Point Bar Light before the wind dropped
entirely. About ten o'clock could see the southwest
breeze covering the Bay with cat's-paws, and it was not
long before we were booming along, carrying
everything.
Off South River passed some of the Baltimore Yacht
Club bound south. At two-thirty we anchored off the Naval
Academy grounds, and then went ashore for mail and
provisions and a visit to McCusker's antique shop. On
returning we found that the Keren and Zeeland and had
come in, and soon after them Mr. Long's bugeye, from
Oxford. Later that afternoon the harbor began to fill up
with all sorts of bay craft, and it certainly seemed as
though it was blowing outside, as schooners and bugeyes
came in under reefed mainsail and jib.
On Sunday we were up and away about four-thirty, and
as the southwest wind was still blowing we expected to
make a quick run to the Elk. While getting up sail we saw
a schooner-rigged bugeye very cleverly back, for about a
couple of hundred yards, out of a tight place. While
running close to one of the schooners going out her
skipper told us that for that time of the year he had
never seen the Bay so rough as it had been the night
before, and there seemed to be some signs of it yet. Off
Hackett's Point we heard loud shouts from the galley, and
going forward I found that the coffeepot had fallen off
the stove; so, to ease her up a bit, we took off the
balloon jib, which had been pulling like a horse.
Off Sandy Point there was a nasty sea in the tide rip,
caused by the south wind and the ebb tide. We did not
make as good time as we expected on account of the head
tide. Passed Swan Point at eight o'clock and Tolchester
at nine. We could not find the red buoy off Worton's
Point, so we went considerably out of our way over to the
western shore to escape the shoal. Off Howell's Point set
the spinnaker, and at two-thirty anchored at the mouth of
Back Creek, about an hour after the Fidelio. We had not
been anchored long before a tow of two large timber
barges from Pamlico Sound came along, and we found we
were in the channel; so got out the kedge and moved
nearer to the north shore. After dinner I sailed around
with the small boat for about an hour and then turned
in.
Next day we did not get up until five o'clock! Had
breakfast and then sat around waiting for the tug to come
down from Chesapeake City. About ten o'clock we became
very impatient, so Skipper Jeanes and I went on shore to
investigate, and learned that one tug was being repaired,
and the other was busy with barges on the canal; but a
man offered to pilot us up the creek for a couple of
dollars. After lunch we started off under balloon
staysail and mizzen, with the awning still set. About
halfway up we passed our cousin's launch, the
Corona, bound down. On arriving at the canal we
got a mule outfit and set out immediately. At St.
George's we got mixed up with a lot of barges, and
halfway to Delaware City passed two which had gone
aground; at Delaware City ran into about a dozen. We did
not lock out until about eight o'clock, so ran over to
the Pea Patch Island side, anchored, and had a dinner and
then turned in.
Started off Tuesday, July 4th, about four o'clock
before a very light southwest wind, but a fair tide. Our
run up was uneventful. Off Marcus Hook the wind
freshened, and we arrived at the club house about one
o'clock.
..
© 2000 Craig
O'Donnell, editor &
general factotum.
May not be reproduced without my permission. Go scan
your own damn article.