In Seward, May, Sydney and their two children boarded a train destined for Wasilla. Sidney had spent time in Wasilla as a child while his father prospected for gold in the Hatcher Pass area beginning in 1912. "Sydney always told me that he knew where to prospect and get rich quick...we were young and foolish I guess", May said.
In route to Wasilla, May was approached by the train conductor who questioned her Wasilla destination. He explained to her that Wasilla had no hotel or accommodations for women and children and suggested that she only go as far as the town of Matanuska Junction where the main railroad line and the railroad spur to Palmer connected. He assured her there was a hotel at the Junction that would be suitable for her and the children. After thinking about it for a while, May decided that a Matanuska Hotel stay sounded pretty good since their baggage and household goods would not arrive from Seward for another two weeks.
When the Rae's got off the train at Matanuska Junction, May immediately knew she was in trouble. The "town" consisted of a railroad depot that had no agent and a hotel that was closed. "It was all too plain that I was in the middle of nowhere without shelter for my daughter and newborn son" May said. Luckily for her, a Presbyterian minister from Palmer (who met every train) recognized her situation and asked if he could take the family into town, but warned them that there was only a men's bunkhouse available and it was not a good place for a woman with children. May decided that she "didn't have much choice and the idea of a men's bunkhouse sounded a lot better than remaining in that wind swept field at Matanuska Junction".
The minister took May and the children to the bunkhouse dining area, where they waited while he and Sydney went into Palmer to look for better family accommodations. They found “a two room shack that had a bed and a few dishes” as May put it, “it barely had the basics. I will never forget that first night; I had to go to the store before we could eat because we didn’t have anything! I would have gone back to Montana the very next day if I could have, but I didn't have any money". Once her family was in bed for the night, May remembers, "I headed for the outdoor ‘biffy’ and had a good cry". A week or so later, the family moved to Wasilla.
May described Wasilla, "...people were very friendly, they just opened their hearts and were good to us. They helped us find a house to live in on Main Street, which was about all there was in 1940; the road didn't go any farther than a block off of Main Street to the school (the old school is now City Hall) and the main road went back up to the mines [Fishhook]. There wasn't any electricity in Wasilla, so there was no water in the houses but there was a public well right in the middle of the street, right about where the fire station is today; it had a cover over it and a rope and bucket; we used it even in the winter time. Electricity didn't come to Wasilla until about 1942."
May’s husband tried to "strike it rich" for a few years but had little luck. He was discouraged and wanted to leave Alaska, but May had fallen in love with the Valley and didn't want to leave. Her husband sold the family truck and household goods and left for Seattle. May was now an unemployed, single parent with two young children and no furniture or transportation. She didn't give in to self pity. Instead, she landed a secretarial job for the FAA in Anchorage and rented a little one room apartment "just big enough for a single bed and a bath" but it was home for May and the children. Later, she found an even better secretarial job with the railroad. May faced all of those early adversities with the grace and courage she has always been known for.
A beautiful and resourceful young woman, May was not single for long. She fell in love with a man named Thomas L. “Pat” Carter. May recalls, "He was in the service and was sent to the Army Post at Valdez. It seemed like Valdez was as far away as China in those days. His job was to transport prisoners to and from Valdez but there was no direct road. When you came from Valdez, you came up the Richardson Highway to Fairbanks and then down on the train to Anchorage. When men were sent to prison in Valdez, they went the reverse route… from Anchorage to Fairbanks and then back down to Valdez on the Richardson Highway; sometimes they went by boat from Seward directly to Valdez. It wasn't easy to find time to get married in those days. The law required a three-day waiting period between the time you applied for a marriage license and the marriage ceremony itself and Pat's circuit with the prisoners was always two days. We finally found the time to get married in 1943”.
In 1944, while May was in the hospital having a baby, she received a visit from a friend, Eva (Fleckenstein) Herning. Eva told May that Howard Wilmoth, the Wasilla Postmaster Commissioner had passed away and she encouraged May to apply for his job. May told Eva, "I don't know a thing about being Postmaster or Commissioner" and Eva responded, "Well, May, you can learn!" That is exactly what May did. “My first job as Commissioner was a double wedding. I can’t remember their names, but it was a couple from Palmer and a couple from over on the Richardson Highway. I didn’t know how to do it, I didn’t know if you asked both brides, or you asked both grooms or whether you asked one couple then the other. I didn’t have a book and I didn’t get any training at all, absolutely nothing, so I learned as I went, it was a very interesting job."
As far as businesses in Wasilla (in 1940), there was a “general store, a hotel that had an eating place, a tavern, the Post Office and a one room school. There was no church of any kind and not much of a cemetery...well, there was a little cemetery on this hill back here, the first little hill you go up on Knik Road, just right out of town; there are 4 graves there but I don't know who is buried there; most were buried in Anchorage or Palmer. The main cemetery that we have now was the result Martin and Edith Olson; they had an old homestead where Fred Meyer is now. Edith organized a bunch of women to raise money to buy land for a cemetery.I think the first person to be buried out there was Gus Swanson."
“We bought most of our groceries from Herning’s store. You couldn’t get fresh milk or fresh meat and during WWII stuff like sugar and butter was rationed; you got one pound at a time and it didn’t last long enough, so we bought fresh meat and milk from Palmer farmers. An Eskimo lady, married to a white man that lived out on Wasilla Lake had cows; their name was Peck and he was the railroad depot agent in Wasilla."
"We had one telephone in town and it was at the depot. When I was working, you always had some lawyer calling for information or a description of a piece of property that somebody wanted to buy … well, they would call for me, and the depot agent would have to tell the caller ‘I’ll go get her’ and he would come and get me and I’d walk the two blocks down to the depot telephone and call the guy back and find out what he wanted, then I would walk back up to my office, and get the information, then walk back down and call him back and give him the information. We lived on Main Street, across from the community center (Wasilla Museum). In 1944, our house was one of only three buildings in Wasilla that had running water and flush toilets; my bathroom was very popular with friends".
May was the U.S. Commissioner from 1944 until 1959 and the Postmaster of Wasilla from 1944 until 1973. If you had business in the Valley during those years, chances are you met May Carter. She performed weddings, investigated deaths, issued death certificates, helped people file homestead papers, set fines and jail sentences for fish and game violations, she did title searches, recorded leases and transfers, issued license plates and drivers licenses; “all you had to do to get a drivers license, in the early days, was to fill out the application”. May recorded gold mine claims and was the probate judge and notary. She was “on duty” 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. "...one time, late at night, a young couple wanted to get married. They had already submitted the application, so I just had to make out the license, round up a couple of witnesses and perform the ceremony. Half way through the ceremony, the bride said 'I've changed my mind, I don't want to get married'. I told her if she didn't want to get married by all means don't. Five minutes later, she changed her mind the other way; this went back and forth for half an hour and finally, I told her it was late and she had to make up her mind. They decided to get married and they left. The next morning when I opened the office, the groom showed up and said, 'May, will you tear up those papers, I never even got her home'."
Working as Commissioner didn't pay much,“You didn't get an hourly wage but you were allowed to keep your fees. They had a fee system and people paid so-many dollars for a drivers license and that was my pay; I was allowed to keep up to $1,600 a year. As Postmaster, my wages were based on stamp sales and registration fees. Independence Gold Mine melted their gold down into disks about the size of a small cast iron frying pan. Then they put the disk in a canvas bag and fastened it with a lead seal and mailed it to Seattle; it took $100 worth of stamps, so that was always a special payday for me. Nobody knew it, at the time, but those gold disks were put right on the mail cart with the rest of the mail. Of course, there wasn't a lot of crime in Wasilla in those days".
May had a wealth of early Wasilla stories to tell, like the time a man came to her office to file homestead papers. To meet the requirements, people had to fill out a set of forms and then get a witness to fill out a second form and it all had to be notarized. “This guys name was Jay Lavan, he was a great big, tall, lanky guy, a happy go lucky guy and everybody liked him. Well, his witnesses came in signed the papers and Jay paid the $10.00. Oh, he was so happy and he went on his way. Well, we had a family, that had moved into Knik and they were called the goat people because they had goats that lived in their house and climbed all over everything and when they went any place, in the car, they took the goats with them. So, on his way home, who does Jay Lavan run into but the goat people. In those early days, if somebody was broken down or stalled on the road, you always stopped to help them. So, Lavan got out of his truck and helped the family get their rig started. After they drove off, he realized he left the door to the truck open and the goats had gotten in and eaten his homestead papers! He came into the office next day and he was so forlorn…..$10.00 was a lot of money in those days. I thought it was so funny and I burst out laughing and I told him, Oh Van, don’t feel bad, just get yourself some more forms and bring those people back in and I won’t charge you $10.00 this time”.
Another well known Wasilla character was a “Native man named Blind Nick who was once a school teacher at the Eklutna Vocational School, according to May. He was a very intelligent man, and he spoke good English. He was completely blind but he walked everywhere by feeling the edge of the road with sticks; it was fantastic and people watched out for him; he had a cabin about a mile out Wasilla Fishhook. One time, he was drunk and laid down in the middle of the road and someone ran over his legs. There were no broken bones, but he couldn't walk for a while and my husband Pat used to go and take care of him by building a fire and making something for Nick to eat every day, he was good to people like that."
Another character was Oscar Anderson. “He was an older Swedish man who lived in Wasilla but homesteaded out at Big Lake. There was no road to Big Lake back then, so Anderson drove his tractor on the railroad easement as far as Pittman, then he would lay blocks of wood over the rails so he could drive the tractor over the tracks and continue down the trail to Big Lake; he came into town to see his wife on the weekends".
“Shorty Gustafson had the first airplane in the valley and he used it to fly back and forth to the mines. There was a flat, wide, strip beside the road up there, about one or two miles below the mines and he landed there; there was another long landing strip over at Lucky Shot. Shorty had kind of a log building, near where the store was, and he lived upstairs and never married. He played the guitar and banjo and he loved to entertain when he got a little drunk. He was quite a character. He was a jack-of-all-trades and ran kind of a taxi from Wasilla to Palmer”.
A woman that May thought highly of, was Rose Johnson “…she was a nurse and she was always doing something for everybody. When a baby died, we would make a little coffin and she and I would take some satin and padding and fix it up and she was a jewel at it, just out of the goodness of her heart, no charge. She used to make pressed flowers and make pictures with them. She lived over a couple three houses back from my house off of Main Street, the building is still there”.
Jack Fabyan was another character, "he worked for the mines as a mechanic and a welder. He won a bunch of money on the Nenana ice pool one year and his friends helped him drink most of that money away (he didn't have a family). Many years later, two IRS agents came to my office and asked where Jack Fabyan lived (he lived in a tiny shack, with absolutely nothing to his name). The agents told Fabyan about his tax debt on the ice pool winnings and he told them, 'Well, this is it, you can have it if you want it'. The agents would leave but every couple of years new agents would show up and he would tell them the same thing...he was fool proofed."
"I wish the old timers were still here to tell you stories" May told me, "like Ila and Bill Senske, who homesteaded 4 miles out Knik road in about 1927; they befriended every person who ever came to this country. When the GI's poured into this area after World War II, Bill and Ila took care of them. You wouldn't believe the darndest rigs that those young families drove over the Al-Can Highway with. Bill would help the men find their corner stakes so they could file for a homestead and Ila would teach the women to bake bread and slice up moose meat to survive. If it weren't for people like Bill and Ila Senske, those young families would have starved to death. Other early families were the Herning's, the Peck's, the Dodson's, the Thorpe's and the Fleckenstein's. The Thorpe's had a homestead 4 miles out on Knik road on the left hand side."
“People didn’t go to Anchorage for very much in those days because a trip to Anchorage and back was an all day event. The road went from Palmer to Anchorage on what they call the Old Glenn Highway now. The road across the flats, by Eklutna, was so wash-boardy it was hard to stay inside of your car. We went to Anchorage maybe two or three times a year."
I asked May what Wasilla residents thought about the Palmer colonists, "Well, there has always been animosity between Wasilla and Palmer because these people in early Wasilla, came on their own and paid their own way and the colonists…well, the government brought them in and built them houses and cleared their land and of course we ended up with a big bill which had to be paid for, but they were helped a lot. The government built them stores and a hospital and roads and the Colonists didn’t always work on their own places, they worked for somebody else and got paid from that too. When the colonists came, they closed all the rest of this land to homesteading. There was no land available for homesteading here until after WWII when they opened it back up. That was another thing that really stung over here. Palmer people have always been a little more on the grabby side, for instance, services that we had here…the US Commissioners office and the Road Commissioners office and licensing of automobiles all used to be done here in Wasilla, but after Statehood, it was all moved over to Palmer."
May's husband Pat, passed away in 1991; "he was a very kind, generous man with a great sense of humor and a man who worked hard to help people in need. Over the years, he was employed by M.E.A., the Alcantra Youth Camp and Civil Defense among other things. He and Frank Smith were responsible for obtaining Wasilla’s first fire truck."
The Carter’s were very community minded and served on countless boards, committees, fundraisers and work parties. May was on the school board, the Sacred Heart Parish Council, the Wasilla Cemetery Association and she was the treasurer of the “Bishop’s Attic” for 25 years. They donated land to the V.F.W., as well as land for a children's park on the edge of Lake Lucille. Asked if she approved of the city that Wasilla has become, May, ever the diplomat, assured me that Wasilla was still a great town, "except for the traffic".
When I told Mrs. Carter that I admired her dedication to public service, she said, “Well, you know, when I was a little girl, maybe six years old or so, our school lesson was about school boards. They told us that people got paid for their mileage to go to school board meetings, so I asked my dad if he got paid when he went to school board meetings and he told me he did not, then he told me something I’ve never forgotten… he said ‘it’s just something I do for my community’, that was over 80 years ago but I’ve never forgotten that. And when you think about it… what can you do for your community? I’ve served on every board there ever was here. It’s just what I did for my community".
Towards the end of our visit, I asked May if there was anything she regretted about her years of service as Commissioner. She was silent for a minute, and then said, “It would have been nice to get a note of thanks for doing a good job for 17 years, but I didn’t hear anything and that hurt my feelings”. Hearing the sadness in her voice, I was determined to find a way to publicly recognize May Carter for her years of dedication to the Valley. I sent a copy of this “story” to the Mayor of Wasilla and asked if the City could do something for May. The Mayor asked the Alaska State Legislature to issue a special award and just before her 88th birthday, in a ceremony at City Hall, May Carter was presented an official Alaska State Proclamation Award for “Her dedication and service as a great pioneer of Alaska”…you should have seen her eyes sparkle!!!
Matanuska Valley is a much better place because of the unselfish hard work
of May and Pat Carter. Their tireless efforts, generosity and compassion
are wonderful examples of early Alaskan pioneer spirit; they are wonderful
role models for us all.
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