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Tottenham, London (Middlesex), UK
1840's Map, Prints, History


From an 1844 Map of the Outskirts of London
Courtesy of the David Rumsey Map Collection online


From "The History and Antiquities of the Parish of Tottenham" by William Robinson, 1840
(NEH British History Preservation Project, 1996) (Google books online)


BESIDES the Church and the Seven Sisters Roads there are many ancient lanes and highways in this parish: a short account of them is here given, beginning with those on the east side of the turnpike road from Stamford Hill.
At no great distance from Stamford Hill turnpike gate, there is a short lane which leads from the high road to the river Lea, the coal wharf on its bank, and the Marshes.
Page Green Road leads from the Seven Sisters to Bounds Lane, and so on to the Hale and the Hale Field.
High Cross Lane leads also from the high road on the south side of the Cross, to the Hale and Broad Lane Road.
There is a short road or footway from Scotland Green which leads into the Marshes.
Marsh Lane, is opposite to the late nursery ground, for many years known as "Coleman's Nursery," and passing by the farm called "Asplins," in the occupation of Mr. W. Delano, leads also into the Marshes.
Waggon Horse Lane, which is the last on this side of the highway, also leads to the Marshes.
Then crossing the highway and going towards the south on the west side, the first is
White Hart Lane, the upper part of which by the lands known as Crook's Grove," was at the time of the Earl of Dorset's Survey, and long before, called Apeland Street, which, after considerable windings and turnings, leads on the south side of the parsonage grounds towards the north west to Clay Hill, and no farther: but it continues towards the south west by the parsonage grounds to Elses Green, Wood Green, and Chapman's Green, crossing the New River, into the Southgate road.
Lordship Lane, formerly called "Berry Lane," leads from the high road to Chapman's Green, Elses Green, and Wood Green, and Tottenham Wood Farm.
Philip Lane leads from Tottenham Green to West Green, and Ducket's Green, on the confines of Hornsey.
Black-up Lane, otherwise called "Black-hope Lane," leads from the highway opposite the Seven Sisters to West Green and Ducket's Green.
Hangre Lane, formerly called "Chisley Lane," leads from the foot of Stamford Hill to Hangre Green, Beans Green, West Green, and Ducket's Green, &c.



In [1821], Mr. Nathaniel Mathew caused the earth to be bored in a field belonging to the late William Row, Esq., on the south side of Broad Lane, near Page Green, to the depth of 105 feet, when the main spring was tapped. The water here rises about six feet above the surface of the ground, and forms an elegant little fountain in the front of the gardener's cottage there. The water is soft and of an excellent quality, fit for every domestic purpose.
A similar experiment was tried by the order of the inhabitants assembled in vestry, on the waste ground, a short distance beyond the five-mile stone, opposite the Bell and Hare public house. The ground here was bored to the depth of 119 feet, when the main spring was tapped, and a stream issued forth with great rapidity. The water here rises about six feet above the ground, through a tube, within a cast iron ornamented pedestal, which, flowing over the lip or edge of a vase, forms a bell-shaped continued sheet of water inclosing the vase, where it is collected, and again conducted through the pedestal to the place of its discharge out of the mouth of a dolphin, about eighteen inches from the ground. [illustration above] The discharge of the water was at the rate of fourteen gallons a minute.
The expense of boring, tin pipe, pedestal, labour, and making up the ground, was about £90. A well of similar depth, with digging, curbs, stopping out the land springs, and steining with bricks, would cost at least £100.
This fountain, which was after its completion enclosed with posts and rails, and planted round with forest trees and shrubs, had a very unique and attractive appearance.
Since the introduction of this cheap and simple method of obtaining a constant supply of water, many of the inhabitants of Tottenham have adopted it, whose example has been followed by many persons in the adjoining parishes, and also in the county of Essex, with success. ...
In 1839, the pedestal before mentioned was removed from its original situation, to the side of the high road, and the water which came from the mouth of the dolphin, and instead of running to waste, as formerly, it is now conducted into two iron troughs, one on either side of the pedestal, in order to afford water for the use of cattle passing along the road to the London markets.



ANCIENT documents inform us that David, King of Scotland, who reigned from 27th of April, 1124, to 24th of May, 1153, bestowed the church of Tottenham, probably soon after it was erected, on the Canons of the Holy Trinity, in London, which religious house was founded, in 1108, by his sister, Queen Maud,
in perpetual alms for the health of his soul, and the souls of Queen Maud, his sister Queen Maud his wife, Earl Simon, and all his ancestors,
as appears by his charter directed to Gilbert, bishop of London, which was confirmed by William de Sancta Maria, who was bishop of London from the 10th year of the reign of Richard I, (1198) to the 6th year of the reign of Henry III (1221).
Henry VIII ... granted it to William Lord Howard, of Effingham, and Margaret his wife, and to the heirs of their bodies ...but being attainted for concelaing what they kenw of the infidelity of Queen Catherine Howard, they were condemned to perpetual imprisonment, and all their estates were confiscated. After this, it reverted t the crown, and King Henry granted it to the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's Cathedral, who have been ever since, and still are, the patrons of this church. ...
The Church of Tottenham is dedicated to All Hallows or All Saints, and situated about a quarter of a mile on the west of the high road, not far from Bruce Castle. The rising ground upon which it stands was probably selected because the eastern part of the parish was low and swampy, and subject to inundation by the overflowing of the River Lea, for which reason it was placed at a distance from that river and moor grounds upon the most elevated spot in the parish.
It is a neat structure, built of hewn stone, flints, and pebbles, about ninety-two feet in length from west to east, and about fifty-eight feet in breadth from north to south within the walls, and it consists of a chancel, nave, and two aisles, divided from the nave by octagonal pillars and pointed arches. It has a square embattled tower, which was, in Lord Colerane's time, overgrown with ivy to the upper windows, and for which green livery it was indebted to his Lordship, who, in 1690, being lodged in the Church Farm, and seeing the highest shoots torn off from several sides of the steeple, employed workmen to train all the leading branches, and tack them to the steeple; and at this time almost the whole of the tower is covered with ivy, which adds much to the beauty of the old structure. This tower was formerly much higher, but was lowered some years ago before Lord Colerane's time,
upon the middle of which there stood of old a long cross of wood, covered with lead, fastened into the centre of the roof so strongly, as that it was a signification of some cause, why the town mark and the parish had the sign of a high cross, which defied all its enemies from Henry VIIIth's days, till the unhappy civil wars, when the violent zeal of some cunning Parliamentarians, blew up some rascally fellows to set about the pulling down of this cross, which they did with such great difficulty and hazard, as that they repented their foolish attempt long afterwards. One of them breaking his leg, and the rest never thriving after the fact, and leaving a stump for the grafting another cross upon it, as a token of their rashness in reformation.
The antiquity of the original church may be collected from the foregoing pages, and it may be considered to have been built not many years previous to the time when David, King of Scotland, in the twelfth century, gave it to the canons of the Holy Trinity.
It has been thought by some antiquaries, that the present edifice is not earlier than the thirteenth century, and that most of the windows were of the fourteenth century, or later; be that as it may, it is very probable that the church at the time King David gave it to the said canons was not as it is now. Most of the churches in this century must have been considerably altered on account of the increasing population; and others were not originally edifices of much consequence ... scarcely a single wholly ancient church to be found.
Innumerable parish churches were wholly rebuilt or greatly improved within less than a century after the conquest (A. D. 1066). And it may be observed, that the circular arch, round headed doors and windows, massive pillars, thick walls without very prominent buttresses, were used till the end of the reign of Henry I (A. D. 1185)



(The fees are nearly the same as they were in 1799.)

 The MinisterClerkSexton
 £. s. d.£. s. d.£. s. d.
Burial of parishioners—
  in the church yard. 2. 2 00.15 00.10.6
  and in a vault. 1. 1.00. 7.60. 5.0
  not in a vault. 0. 4 00. 3.00. 3.6
Marriage by Banns. 0. 6.60.
Marriage by license. 0.15.00. 7.60. 2.6
Registering at Baptism. 0. 1.0    
Churching of Women. 0. 0.6    
For tolling the bell, 1s. to 0. 5.0    

All graves are to be dug six feet deep, and one shilling is to be paid extra for every additional foot.

The churchwardens are entitled to 13s.4d., for making good the pavement on either side of the chancel.

The corpse of any person dying in the parish, and carried elsewhere to be buried, pays single fees.

The above fees are for the performance of the service only, and not for breaking the ground, or other customary dues.

Double the above fees are claimed and taken for foreigners.


John Tilbury m. Margaret Riley, Tottenham 1837

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