history

The Lobster Smack Public House

The History Of Canvey Island

Last updated 17^th March 2002

The Island of Cana’s People

Canvey can be traced back to Anglo-Saxon times. Apparently Canvey was originally made up of five islands. Canvey is not mentioned in the Doomsday Book, however, the coastal marshes of South Essex, was. Here was grazing for some 18,000 sheep. Sheep farming was a thriving industry. The fat-tailed variety was the favourite breed. The ewe’s milk was used to make cheese.

The Romans

A lot of Roman pottery has been found on Canvey. Some of the pottery seems to be made from the clay found in ‘The Red Hills’ of Canvey. The Romans produced salt here. It is also thought there was a burial ground at ‘Dead Mans Point’.

Recently coins and pottery which may perhaps be from a temple or some residence of a higher class than was thought to be on Canvey has been found. The area near Thorney Bay is thought to have been a port in Roman times. In the past it had been rumoured a mosaic floor had been found somewhere on the island. But as far as I know no one knows the truth of this tale. Perhaps this will yet be uncovered.

The Dutch

A Dutchman, by the name of Julius Sludder is thought to have been responsible for building the Dutch cottage in 1618, by 1622 he had also become the owner of part of Canvey. Joas Croppenburg, a Dutch Haberdasher of Cheapside, financed the reclamation of Canvey. Cornelius Vermuyden, a Dutch Engineer and relative of Croppenburg was called in to oversee the work. Some 300 workmen were brought over from Holland. His name lives on with a lake being named after him. Croppenburg Lake in the Smallgains area not far from the new Canvey Heights, has now all but disappeared but still shows up on plans of the area. Croppenburg Walk is off Harvest Road. There was also a Sluice name after him but as yet I have not identified it.

Dutch names are very prevalent on the island. Cornelius Vermuyden is now the name of one of our local Senior Schools.

The Dutch Cottages

When the Dutch occupied the Island in the 17^th century, they left their mark. Not only with the dykes and sea walls. Two round Dutch Cottages, still standing today. They are dated 1618 and 1621. The one built in 1618 in Canvey Road is now a museum. The other is a private dwelling. The two other round cottages on the Island are copies of a much later date.

Daniel Defoe

Canvey Island and the ‘fever’ was referred to in the writings of Daniel Defoe, in the 18^th century. He said that he frequently met with men who had taken a huge number of brides in quick succession. Apparently the men of Canvey took many brides because of a form of malaria that struck their wives soon after the women arrived from the mainland. Some came from the south, Kent. Numbers of wives have been said to range from 14 and 15 to possibly as many as 35. Not many lived for more than a year in their new homes. I have found many references to the fever and the number of wives the men of Canvey professed to have. Some only lasted a few months. There must be some truth to this story!!!!

Chapman Lighthouse

The Chapman lighthouse was demolished in 1957. It first came in to use in 1851, to warn passing boats of the off shore mud flats replacing a lightship that was moored in the area. The lighthouse was made entirely of iron. The ‘hexagonal-shaped’ living accommodation consisted of a living room, bedroom, kitchen/washroom and storeroom. The lighthouse keeper and his assistant had to use a rowing boat to get to shore. Eventually the lighthouse was in danger of collapsing and was demolished. It was replaced by a single bell buoy that can be found 800 yards off shore.

The Village School

The first village school was built in 1874 near St Katherine’s Church. The timber-framed building was closed when Long Road school was built (William Read School). The old school was then used as a Village Hall until it was almost completely gutted by a fire. The hall has since been demolished. Picture.

The Village Pump

The village pump was of a simple design with a thatched roof. It had an inscription, which read ‘Whosoever drinketh of the water that I shall give him shall never thirst’. The well was sunk some 312 feet through layers of sand and stodgy clay. It became the focal point of the village and stood at the road junction of Long Road and Haven Road. Where the Red Cow stood (renamed King Canute in 1953)

St Katherine’s Church

From the 17^th to the 19^th century there has been four churches on the site of St Katherine’s in Long Road. The first church was a wooden structure built by the Dutch. The English had to travel off the island to worship. On Whit Monday 1656, the two communities met in conflict. The English demanded the keys to the church. A fight broke out. But the Dutch would not give the English the keys and they remained in possession of the church until it fell into disrepair. It was demolished in 1712. By this time many of the Dutch had returned to Holland. A new church was built for the Canvey Islanders. This church was called St Catherine’s. Another church was built in 1845 called St Peter’s. St Katherine’s, as we know it today was built in 1875. The spelling differed from the previous St Catherine’s. Some of the old church was used in the new building. (The stained glass and old porch.) The church was finally closed in the 1960’s. Today it is The Heritage Centre.

The Lobster Smack Inn

The Lobster Smack Inn previously known as the Sluice House and The World’s End, is believed to be built in the 17^th century although there is a date on the building of 1510. It is locally known as the Lobby. Ship’s Captains and pilots were frequent patrons, to escape the higher prices elsewhere. Smuggling in the area was rife, even with a coastguard station next to the Inn. The Inn was apparently referred to in Charles Dicken’s ‘Great Expectations’. It anyone can tell me exactly how it was mentioned I would be very grateful. The annual fair was also held here, taking place on the 25 June each year. About the same time as our local show is now held. The fair was well established by the 1760’s with regular bare-knuckle prize fights in the 1800s. Some bouts lasted nearly 90 rounds.

The Lobster Smack today

Frederick Hester

Frederick Hester was an Estate Agent from Prottlewell. The son of a Carpenter born in Fulham, London in 1854, he had a vision of Canvey Island as a holiday resort. He bought up farm properties, at knockdown prices, as the agricultural depression set in. Working with his son he divided them into plots, which they then sold to people to build holiday homes and shops. Hester built a Tower-bungalow at the entrance to his Famous Winter Gardens with panoramic views of Canvey and the surrounding area. Winter Gardens was to cover six square miles with the glass conservatories housing exotic plants, birds and fish. A monorail was installed carrying holidaymakers through the gardens and the main theme of the resort was Dutch, with the workers in Dutch national costumes and many of the older roads given Dutch names. These can be seen today. He even wanted to have a Venetian canal, with gondolas. Hester dream was never finished and he was made bankrupt in 1905. But he had made his mark on Canvey.

The Bridge

Before the bridge connecting Canvey to Benfleet was built, the only way for pedestrians to cross to Canvey was by ferry or stepping-stones at low tide. Passengers paid 1d for the trip. For 2d they could take across their bikes. Animals and large vehicles were driven across at low tide. Some vehicles were abandoned when they were caught unawares by the incoming tide. The bridge was officially opened on 21 May 1931. The Colvin swing bridge was in use until 1973 when the present bridge replaced it. The last time the swing bridge was opened was in 1968. There has been a second exit from the island over Canvey Way for many years. Unfortunately both exits use the same roundabout. Hopefully a third exit will not be too long coming.

Floods of 1953

Canvey Island has been flooded many times. Despite repeated raising of the sea walls the sea keeps winning the fight. In 1888, then again 1897 after a high tide part of Canvey was flooded. On 1^st February 1953 the great storms hit the North sea and much of the east coast of England was flooded. Many lives were lost that night. Canvey suffered the worst with 58 people dead. Survivors, many of whom were on roof tops or huddled in lofts, it was a long cold night. Many were eventually evacuated to the mainland and given temporary dwellings, or stayed with friends or relatives until the enormous task of rebuilding, not only the sea walls, but much of Canvey’s infrastructure, was completed.

Canvey’s Sea Walls have once again been raised. Hopefully this time we can sleep safer in our beds. But we are always aware of the powerful forces that could once again visit this Island. Picture