"July 12th 1894 (Thursday)
We left home about 12 oclock [sic] (please note that oclock is spelled this way throughout this whole diary and will not be noted any more) drove Jennie horse, arrived in Richmond about two.
At seven oclock PM. we took a sleeper for Hoboken. We retired at eleven oclock, but could not sleep in such a little box (?). I found it easier to sleep than to dress next morning, but succeeded and was ready to leave car at half past six at Jersey City. Here we took a St. [sic] car which took us within 4 blocks of our Hotel {Naegeil's} which is on the corner of Hudson & 3rd St. It was thoroughly german [sic] everything served in german [sic] style by german [sic] waiters. Here we stayed until Saturday at 12 oclock when we left for our Steamer which was only four blocks from the hotel. I must here give an account here of how we spent Friday. Well we ate our breakfast then called on our friend the Obermeyers. She was not at home. We then went to New York called on many friends of father's, then returned to Hoboken and while eating our dinner Mrs. Obermeyer called and would have (us) return home with her and spend the evening. We had a very pleasant time and after tea we went to Eldarado, which is a park like just on outskirts of Hoboken beautifully lighted with thousands of gas jets in arches. In this park is an open air theatre resembling the old Roman Colleseum [sic] where there is some play each night in summer. I didn't enjoy it at all as I felt entirely out of place. On Saturday at one oclock we sailed and had some dear friends to see us off. Mr. and Mrs. Obermeyer and much to our surprise dear Aunt Mamie was on the Steamer waiting to say good-bye.
Well a little after one oclock the Steamer sailed, our friends and hundreds of other peoples friends waved us out of sight.
After this we hunted our cabins. I had a nice one all to myself, fathers was exactly opposite and strange to say his companion was a Dr. Williams from Richmond, Va too, the only two Virginians on board.
In about an hour we were told to come to lunch, it consisted of coffee, tea, and sandwitches [sic]. Between 5 & 6 they served regular dinner, about nine luch (?) (lunch) again. Father was sick after being out 2 hours. At eleven we retired. Our second day was not pleasant as we both felt too sick to move around. Father took all meals on deck. Sunday was indeed a strange day. There was no observance of it at all except by individuals. I suppose from this that our Dutch People are not strict in their observance of the Sabbath.
By Sunday night Father began feeling better, went to his meals. We owed it all to his taking Carters liver [sic] Pills.
Monday was a damp chilly day, we couldn't stay on deck all time but as we were well didn't mind being indoors.
The passengers were very sociable. There were only first class second class and stearage [sic]. It made my heart ache to see these poor creatures lying around on the wet floor with no wraps or comforts.
So far there has been no music on boad [sic] as it was very foggy and music prevented hearing fog bell and signals.
Monday night I slept well and was much refreshed in the morning. All day was too damp too [sic] stay on deck so we stayed in Parlor. There was a little French baby on board who was a pleasure to all. Father was real well so enjoyed talking to the gentleman.
Well between five & six dinner was served and every-one enjoyed the Dutch fare. We had beef made into "Irsh Stew" [sic], roast beef, potatoes, roast pork, tomatoes, endive. Soup with green peas came first of all. Sausage cheese, rye bread and flour bread are always on the table we ate cake, juc [sic], & samna– (?) for desert. 271 mi.
July 17th 1894
Tuesday the weather was still calm and the fog was very unpleasant. It was too damp to be on deck so most of the ladies assembled in the parlor and the day was spent very pleasantly. 271 miles was the distance traveled.
July 18th 1894
Wednesday was a cool, damp day the fog was dense so we traveled only 271 miles just as day before. Eating occupies most of our time as there are four meals a day counting the lunch or cup tea at nine P.M. As the passengers become better acquainted, time passes more quickly. But we were surprised when told that it would take 14 da's [sic] to cross instead of nine.
July 19th 1894
Thursday was quite an eventful day. We passed an iceberg which we saw well with glasses. It was thought to be about 150 ft above water. Only 1/3 is usually seen 2/3 remaining under water. We also passed a barge loaded with lumber. About six we had dinner afterwards we went out to see the moon which was a treat as the fog had been hiding it each night before. Then there was some music old familiar songs which all enjoyed. Dr. Williams was the life of the Boston party and all enjoyed his bright jolly ways. About eleven we retired and as usual my night was a pleasant one.
Friday July 20th 94
Nothing of interest took place in the morning. The weather was bright once more and we enjoyed walking. After dinner about eight oclock they got up a dance. One of the Stearage [sic] passengers played accordion and they had a lively time for about two hours. Then there was some singing. Dr. Williams sung some Darkie songs. We had to retire at eleven. Had a good smoothe [sic] night.
Saturday July 21st 94
It was a lovely day but very cold. We could not sit out on deck, but enjoyed walking up & down. Lunch time soon came and we were hungry so enjoyed it. I dont want to forget how to make the beautiful rice pudding. It was in a flat dish a layer of rice & one of peaches with icing in rings all over & then baked. About six we had dinner again but it was more than I can describe. After the tables were cleared away there was a game of progressive Euker (?). I enjoyed looking on. We then retired.
Sunday July 22nd
There was a lovely sunrise and the air was cold & delightful. At eleven oclock the bell was rung and Service was announced. The preacher on board was an Episcopalian but as there were no prayer books we had no regular service. He read the XL Chapter of Isiah [sic] and took the last verse for a text. His talk was very nice and the thought that a Christians walk was all the Bible some unbelievers used made me feel as though I was more than guilty. Did I walk as a Christian should, was I a stumbling block to any one was the question with me. It did me good.
The rest of the day was spent quietly by some, there we many who seemed to know no difference. The captain came in to service. My friend Mrs. Ampt was lovely company as she is such a Christian character. Every one loves her. Our dinner was more elaborate than usual. I dont want to forget that the oysters were served on puff paste with a ring of paste around and the piece cut out of ring placed over the oyster and then baked. The pie too I must remember, three crust with jam between, boirled [sic] icing over top and rings around edge dotted with icing.
The rest of our evening was spent quietly, looking at the moon & walking up & down deck with a Miss Brady from Philadelphia. We then retired.
Monday 23' July '94
It was a lovely bright day. Many were busy all day fixing for the concert to be given at night for the benefit of "Invalid Fund" on this line of steamers. Tickets were sold at .50 each to the amount of $35.00. The concert was not very good but as time hung heavy anything was enjoyed. This was the only thing of interest today. We retired and had a rough night could feel the rocking plainly.
Tuesday July 24th 94
The weather was windy all night and the ocean quite rough. Many were sick again. Father was very sick but managed to get to his meals. I felt well and proved a good sailor so all said. The waves were very high they would wash over the deck so that we could not go out. It was the longest day we had. We had lunch and dinner as usual then sat around until ten. I retired then as I had a cold in my head. I took a glass a glass [sic] hot lemonade with tea-spoon of brandy, 3 gr. of Quinine on retiring. We felt light hearted as we were told that land would be seen in the morning.
Wed. July 25th 94
When I awoke and looked out of the port-hole the first thing I saw was a flock of large sea-gulls. I hurried and dressed and when I came on deck found many others were looking at the lighthouse on Scilly Ilse. The sea-gulls are a sign that land is near. Father and all the sick ones felt better as the sea was very smooth, and every thing looked bright as we drew nearer land. The diningroom table is surrounded by people writing getting letters ready to mail to there [sic] loved ones when we reach Boulonge [sic].
Letter Home:
S.S. Werkendam
Wed. July 25th 1894My Dear Minnie;
I have written a long letter to Franz which I intend for you all, but thought as you were away you would like a few lines for yourself. We have been out eleven days and dont expect to reach Rotterdam until the 14th. Our trip has been a nice one father was sick only two first days and yesterday as it was quite rough. I havn't [sic] been sick at all except for a few minutes the first Sunday morning. Nearly all the ladies or many were sick yesterday and I was not, so am a very good sailor so far. My mind is full of you all, but I dont allow it to trouble me as I know the same God is over all and will care for our loved ones though far away. I can never tell Cousin Mollie, Genie, and each one there how indebted we feel to them for there [sic] motherly care of you. They must consider this letter for them all. I expect to enjoy my letters waiting for me at Rotterdam. Franz's letter contains full description of our {my} steamer life so I wont repeat as I want to write other letters.
My trip has done me good as it is the most complete rest you can imagine, some days were so long and tiresome with only water and sky and the fog too dense to see any distance. You wouldn't enjoy it I dont think, but I have and it has done father good, he has had to really give up and rest, body & mind. It is so cold that I have on my heavy cloak and my shall [sic] wrapped around my feet & knees and am in the diningroom. It is too cold to go on deck at all. We are in the English Channel now. Father has come & wants my pen so with much love to all I am
Your devoted
SisterI enclose the programme [sic] of concert given on steamer Monday night for benefit of Invalid fund. Admission .50cts.
Thursday
July 26th 94This has been a grand day we have seen many lovely little towns along the coast of France. Many passengers got off at Boulogne France. It was exiciting [sic] to see the boat called the ‘tender' come out and take them off. We had formed some pleasant friendships and could but feel sad to see them leave. My dearest friend was Mrs. Awpt for Cincinatti [sic]. She was lovely and every-body loved her. As I write {it is ten oclock} the custom officer has come on board and is now going through our trunks. Father is walking up & down and we feel full of life to reach land once more. It but reminds me of how I imagine we feel when we reach the heavenly shore. We are going to stay on board until morning.
Friday Morning
July 27th 1894We are now at Hotel Coomaus. I am sitting in my room which is very nice, just opposite fathers. The furniture is very nice large canopy over each bed made of heavy damask & fringed around. We were first ushered into the diningroom to wait for rooms. It was lovely with its large mirrors and the lovely vases of red & white gladiolas & beautiful palms. There was a table filled with guidebooks which you could buy. I must mention the things that struck me most forcibly on my ride from boat to hotel. The many bridges we had to cross and the curious gocarts pushed by a man and pulled by a dog hitched just under the axel [sic], mostly loaded with vegetables. The buildings look old & massive. My southern eyes missed the mules & darkies. It was touching to see the meeting of friends and loved ones at the boat. Many had been separated for years, and it seemed as though the boat would never land and bring them together. Many friends from boat came to same hotel so we feel like we are not alone.
Father then went out and telegraphed to Aunt Henretia and had to wait over two hours. It was a painful time as he could only by the answer know if she yet lived. When the telegram came he was too nervous to open it so brought it to me and we looked at it together. It read as follows {Ja, Komme nur bald.} Father gave way just a little, so I left him a few moments and tried to be busy. In a short while we dressed and started out to see Rotterdam. We met up with an old man who spoke elegant English, so he became our guide and showed us many nice sights. One was statue of Erasmus who ___(about four lines space has no writing suggesting it was to be finished at a later time). ...aslo [sic] the house in which he was born. Them we went to fruit market which is an open square with awnings raised under which set [sic] women selling, cherries large red & black, pears not very large and lovely plumbs [sic], some peaches. We bought two for 25 cts Dutch money about 2˝ cts apiece American. We saw the canal filled with boats loaded with all kinds vegetables ready for morning market. We gave our guide 25 cts in American money. He seemed very proud of it as he had once lived in California. We returned to Grand Hotel Coomaus ordered our dinner which was several kinds of cold meat garnished with small cucumber pickles sliced like a fan, also some jelly on one side. Bread lovely butter, lettuce salad, and a glass beer. We then retired and left order to be waked at half past five to start for Berlin.
Letter Home:
Grand Hotel Coomaus
Friday Evening
July 27th 1894My darling Sister;
Since traveling across the Atlantic it has brought Europa [sic] & America so much nearer, that I dont feel as though I'm really so far from you. Father is very happy as he received a telegram from his sister a few hours ago. We will leave for Berlin at six oclock tomorrow morning as we prefered [sic] traveling in the day. We started out about two oclock this evening and walked all over Rotterdam. It reminds me very much of Hoboken N.J. You know that is a Dutch City. We were looking into one of the Jewelry Stores when an old fellow who spoke English came up and began telling us what we ought to see and followed us about showing us the different Streets and buildings. We saw the Stature [sic] of Erasmo, also the house in which he was born. You look in the encyclopedia and see what he was famed for. We went through the fruit Market. It would surprise you to see the women with their large wooden shoes turned up at the toe, you would wonder how they could walk in them. Of course these are the rough, very rough class. Other people look just as our people. The ladies wear shirt-waist & belts and nealy [sic] always a light jacket. The horses are immense and you rarely ever see more than one horse to any-thing. The wagons are all low and have wheels like street-cars excepting the groove. I mean small broad wheels. You see number of go-carts pushed by a man with a dog hitched under center, sometimes two dogs pulling heavy ones alone, and the dogs are not large, some no larger than Venus. You dont see one but dozens at the time. The dogs are no particular kind – look like Mr. Victors dogs mostly. The Millinary [sic] Stores are filled with just such hats as we have. By the way I left my big trunk at Rotterdam and packed most of my clothes in the telescope, as I found it too troublesome to carry a trunk, my hat was left there too I wont need it though I think. When I go abroad again I will know how few clothes I need. It was so pleasant to us when we entered the hotel diningroom there sat four of our best friends from Steamer. Lovely people from Phil. The young lady is a Miss McComb. Her mother married again so her name Mrs. McCune. But this girl knows no difference between an [sic] own father as he idolizes her. He is a fine old gentleman & we became good friends. She saw us and came over to kiss me good-bye thinking we wouldn't be apt to meet again. Father is now fixing up some money learing [sic] just how to calculate the Dutch coins. He is in my room at same table. I wrote in Franz's letter that we had engaged birth in [sic] Steamer that sails on 15th Sep. Couldn't come sooner as all births in [sic] earlier ships were taken. It isnt as warm here as there but you see little children with short sleeves but high neck. They have no flies and dont have screens either. I havn't seen a church, but there must be some, though I dont imagine the Dutch a God fearing people certainly not to no great degree. Well now I must stop as Anton hasnt had a letter yet. Give warmest love to our lsenie and all at Counin [sic] Mollies & others friends there. Take good care of your-self and let us both be well & strong so that we can make home bright when we get there once more. I am learning little new dishes every day. Much love to your darling self from your devoted Father &
Sister Bertha Father doesn't seem to think of writing will after he gets to aunts. As yet I have had no home letters but will get some I hope soon
Sister. Saturday July 28th 1894
We left Rotterdam at 7.45 in the morning and traveled all day on a through express and reached Berlin at half past ten in the evening. We had to change cars once at ...(blank space)... had to go down long stone steps. We were stopped for at least half an hour when we reached the German line for the customs officer. All the baggage had to be taken into the office examined and a chalk mark put on. {They didnt really open any-thing}. The scenery along the road was beautiful past description. All the land in cultivation, even when you would see woods they were cultivated, and then the lovely villages. All the roofs tiled and painted red. Here and there you would see a windmill. It was harvesting time. Men with scycles [sic] cutting and women binding. It seemed to me that there was more rhye [sic] on ˝ a. than we usually see on two whole a. You would see two cows hitched to a large wagon. A woman driving and a man & girl loading. We got something to eat on cars. Had a nice veal cutlet good bread & butter and a glass beer & irsh [sic] potatoes for about .50 cts apiece in American money. We reach Berlin at half past ten, had made friends on car, who helped us off, secured us a carriage. We found the Hotel that Mr. Victor recommended. The Hospiz Berliner Stadtmission.
One of our boat friends Rev. Mr. Adkinson from near Boston came to Berlin with us which made our trip much more pleasant. The Hotel is a very nice one. You felt at home as there is prayer-meeting every morning at 7˝ oclock. Our rooms are very nice, on the 4th floor but facing the St. [sic]. Father and our friend room together as there are two bed [sic] in each room. My room is next to fathers. The beds are very nice with down covers, but too warm for summer, so I took off the cover and took the colored counterpane which was only used as a cover and slept under it. The furniture was green plush, walnut woodwork. Black bobnet curtains with flowers of cream color stitched on with blue & red. Electric light in center of room. Commode by bed with a candle & box of matches thereon. Very large rooms as large as our parlor. Nice wardrobe in each room. We pay pay [sic] 4˝ shillings a day = to $1.12˝ American money for my room fathers cost half as he has a friend. From Sat night to Monday 12 oclock for room & eating 30 mark = $7.50 for both. Railroad fare from Rotterdam to Berlin for each 40˝ marks = $10 apiece American money. Then 2˝ marks each = 62˝ cts a. for parlor car, government tax. Had prayer & retired.
Hotel. Hospitz der Berliner Stadtmission Mohrenstrasse irm Gensdarmenmarkt Berlin.
Sunday 29th 1894
After a good night's rest we rose and were ready at 7˝ oclock for prayer meeting. They sing, read bible & have a prayer. There is a small pulpit on which burn two candles. Over this is a picture of Christ surrounded by lambs. Other pictures of Christ are hanging around. You find this in all Lutheran Churches. About half past eight we had our breakfast, after breakfast we went to church. The church building was magnificent dome shape with lovely painting of christ [sic] all around ceiling. The pulpit was elevated about 12 ft above congregation and looked like a chariot draped with, star, spanged [sic] black silks & fringed with gold. It was grand. Then the old Minister with his black robe & white hair, was all that was needed. His sermon may have been good, but I couldnt understand it. The hymn's [sic] were printed {or ratheter [sic] numbers} on a board where all could see. The organ sounded so as to make you feel as though you were in some weird monstary [sic] of old. You see very few churches, nearly all Lutheran. After church we walked around for half hour. Saw Statue of Frederick the great, the Kings place, the picture gallery then returned to Hotel as dinner was at 1 oclock. Church opened at ten, then at six in evening. Very few people seem to attend church. Sunday is quet [sic] and well observed, if you do see a quet [sic] street-sweeper now & then. Our dinner consisted of, soup, fresh boil [sic] fish, veal cutlets, stewed currants and chocolate pudding for desert. Cheese and rhye [sic] bread & pomperneickle [sic] passed around last.
The Tiergarten is an immense stretch of lovely woods with grand roads through, its statuary fountains etc. Here too is the Zoo-ological [sic] Garden, but we didn't have time to go in. We then drove down another side of Tiergarten and saw the residences of the wealthy facing the garten [sic]. Words cant picture the elegance surely none on earth are finer. The flowers, are arranged so beautifully, nearly all enterances [sic] are on side. Palms wave in every nook & corner, lovely Hydrangia [sic] arranged in tierces [sic], row of pink then blue. There are porches for 4 stories often with lovely flowers draping from each. Our driver said each family had an educated gardner [sic] and they only get 75 cts a da [sic]. These palms have to be packed in straw in winter so you can imagine how valued such places are. You see statuary every-where. Every church is filled around eves with lovely life sized women, and nitches [sic] in the dome with some apostle. On front is cut in stone bible scenes — Christ & the disciples. These churches have been standing hundred of years. {But give me America with is [sic] growing Christainity [sic]} You never hear of a new church here or a new preacher.
Nearly every one takes beer or wine for dinner, few drink water. After dinner, we stayed quietly in our room until tea about eight oclock. Sat (?) in the parlor afterward, retired at ten.
Monday July 30th
We intended leaving at twelve oclock for Rheinsberg to see Aunt Henretta, but father was disappointed as they made a mistake in time so we leave tomorrow at 10.50 After being disappointed we took a carriage our friend with us, and drove for three hours. First went to Dresdener Bank to get U.S. money changed for german [sic]. Then we drove straight out "Unter den Linden" to their Garten [sic]. Saw the statue erected 1871 after Revolution with France. It is a dome shape column quite high with goddess of liberty in full flight life size, on top. About 10 (?) ft from ground are porches supported by colums [sic]. On these walls are war scenes painted. It seem to be made of brown stone, figure in brass, with brass trimmings about on monument. We saw the old palace of "Frederick the Great" with its large grounds around, kept sacred almost, the people are taxed to keep it up. The old palace is not imposing.
Tuesday Morning July 31st 1894
At 10.50 we were on the train for Rheinsberg. It was a good long drive to depot & raining. Such a difference here in handling baggage. It is all weighed and you pay for all over 50 lbs. It is tantalyzing [sic] to an American to stand and wait for so much ceremony as it were over nothing. These cars were different again. Each room had five seats or a lounge on one side for 2 on other for three. It was a distinct room shut off from others and you could only enter from outside door. The conductor could not get to you except the car stopped. There was a closet in also. This is second class I'm describing, we traveled altogether in this class. There was a gentleman & wife in with us. He was so sick and his wife was so lovely. Well in two hours we were in Gransee.
We had decided to take a carriage instead of the stage as we were anxious to see Aunt and all there. Just as we stepped from the car a gentleman came to us, dressed in blue, with brown straw hat and gave his name as Herr Kerbs and a few yds off stood Aunt Henretta. I shall never forget the meeting between father & aunt. She is a nice looking old lady not very grey favors uncle Louis more than father. Well we talked some time before we started for Rheinsberg which is a drive of 15 English mi. 3 (?) german [sic]. Uncle Kerbs had a carriage so we at last started. He asked me in English if I would accept a bouquet which he had put up for me in Rhiensberg. We drove on for about 8 mi when we came to an inn. Here we stopped, had a glass beer & some sandwitches [sic]. Off we started again and didn't stop until we came to aunts home. Here we were met by cousin Helene, a very sweet woman about thirty years old. The house is a large two story one stuccoed. It is the village school also their dwelling. Cousin Helene had every-thing decorated with evergreens and flowers. Cyprus (?) was the green, dahlia's the flowers mostly. The stair railing was covered with green & flowers, over the door was a motto "Leid Gegruhzt" (?) meaning "Welcome". In a short time dinner was ready. It consisted of soup, veal cutlets, boiled beef, irsh [sic] potatoes and a kind of rice pudding moulded [sic] like a fish for dessert with currant sauce. You never see bread for dinner. I didn't mention wine and beer. We spent the remainder of evening in looking over the pictures, which they enjoyed so much. At eleven we retired, father had a nice little room next to diningroom, I slept in same room with cousin Helene, each had a bed. The worse thing in Germany is that even in summer you are put between feathers. Our Hotel in Berlin was the same. I didn't rest much first night was too hot.
Bertha's Diary, Part Two
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